Thanks! Looks good. Keep us informed...
Wild West Off-Road 2nd Generation High Clearance Lower Control Arms
- Thread starter ShottsUZJ100
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Got a website for them or a phone number? Maybe they are willing to make one for the 200 series 
Shotts - you can get ~1.5" of clearance for free by removing that ridiculous looking vibration damper. I doubt it's doing your truck any good at this point and the 100 needs a diet with all the heavy iron you have on it.
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- Thread starter
- #64
I've never hung on that. It's the damn arms!
- Thread starter
- #65
Got a website for them or a phone number? Maybe they are willing to make one for the 200 series
Tim Lund....360-264-5363 GO FOR IT!
- Thread starter
- #66
One example of why the "bent arms" help:
The video shows how a straight arm would have been hit, bent, or hung on. Click the link:
John Shotts (shottscruisers) : photos : Wild West Off-Road 2nd Generation High-Clearance Lower Rear Control Arms
Stills from the video (though the video shows it better):
Approach. Look what the rear arm area is headed for:
Look where the ledge was going to hit. Yes, the lower arms. Good things I had the WWOR arms.
The video shows how a straight arm would have been hit, bent, or hung on. Click the link:
John Shotts (shottscruisers) : photos : Wild West Off-Road 2nd Generation High-Clearance Lower Rear Control Arms
Stills from the video (though the video shows it better):
Approach. Look what the rear arm area is headed for:
Look where the ledge was going to hit. Yes, the lower arms. Good things I had the WWOR arms.
- Thread starter
- #67
BUMP! After seeing discussion about arms in the Picture Section I went back and re-read this thread. David Zartman's (4WD Toyota Owner Magazine) posts from the Rubicon are of great importance to us 100-owners. I suggest starting at page 1. Lots of info.
Update from me over the past 2 years I've run these lower arms:
***They are PRICELESS! FJC's, 100's, 80's...dragging, bending, stopping progress from the lower rear arms is a huge problem in the rocks. A J-shaped arm addresses this. You rarely ever touch your arm to an obstacle as they are out of the way.
***No driveshaft issues. The DS is still tucked up and away and is easy to avoid when you're not worried about hanging up on the arms. Plus, like David said in his post...we're already worrying about clearing our rear diff and that usually results in clearing the driveshaft as well. It's AWESOME to only worry about the diff/driveshaft vs 3 things...diff, L arm and R arm.
***For those who still demand straight arms. I suggest you do not settle for 100-series thinner/lighter aftermarket arms. Instead, shop for extreme-duty 80-series arms. They exist in a tube as heavy as the Wild West's. I suggest you take those larger size and super beefier arms and fit them to the 100. It's easy...4 new 80-series bolts and 5-minutes worth of drilling. Sure beats lighter-duty stuff and with little effort.
J-arms are the way to go though. This wheel is really drooped. Where's the control arm?
There's nothing there to catch if this was a spot with a huge rock ro ledge. Just imagine it! What an improvement! Go read Zartman's posts! He knows how to write and his posts make sense.
Update from me over the past 2 years I've run these lower arms:
***They are PRICELESS! FJC's, 100's, 80's...dragging, bending, stopping progress from the lower rear arms is a huge problem in the rocks. A J-shaped arm addresses this. You rarely ever touch your arm to an obstacle as they are out of the way.
***No driveshaft issues. The DS is still tucked up and away and is easy to avoid when you're not worried about hanging up on the arms. Plus, like David said in his post...we're already worrying about clearing our rear diff and that usually results in clearing the driveshaft as well. It's AWESOME to only worry about the diff/driveshaft vs 3 things...diff, L arm and R arm.
***For those who still demand straight arms. I suggest you do not settle for 100-series thinner/lighter aftermarket arms. Instead, shop for extreme-duty 80-series arms. They exist in a tube as heavy as the Wild West's. I suggest you take those larger size and super beefier arms and fit them to the 100. It's easy...4 new 80-series bolts and 5-minutes worth of drilling. Sure beats lighter-duty stuff and with little effort.
J-arms are the way to go though. This wheel is really drooped. Where's the control arm?
There's nothing there to catch if this was a spot with a huge rock ro ledge. Just imagine it! What an improvement! Go read Zartman's posts! He knows how to write and his posts make sense.
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John, I appreciate your update and the contextual pictures.
Interesting I just checked Wild West's web site and it's completely changed from last time I'm there. It's missing all the lower control arms....hope they still make them. If not it sounds like spressmon was making some just as good or better.
- Thread starter
- #71
I hope so. Did you call? Wild West Off Road
Call? No, it's long distance and I'm only kicking tires at this point. Everything we need to know in this world is supposed to be on the internet now anyways!
I can't remember the last time I heard that phrase.
I spoke with WWOR two or three weeks ago. They can assemble the WWOR RLCA's in a couple of different flavors (e.g. bushing material, bolt size, etc.) for the 100. As listed, they come with Old Man Emu bushings and require the use of the larger 80 Series nuts, bolts and washers—you'll also need to enlarge the mounting holes on the axle and frame to accept the larger O.D. of the 80 Series bolt. I was told they can also be assembled with 100 Series OEM rubber bushings. The OEM rubber bushings would also allow you to use the stock 100 nuts, bolts and washers.
Wild West Off Road - 80 Series Heavy-Duty High Clearance Lower Control Arms
Since my 100 spends 99% of it's time on-road, I replaced my bent RLCA's with OEM parts. I also replaced all of the mounting hardware. Still not clear how the PO—a doctor and avid golfer—bent the RLCA's.
- Thread starter
- #75
EXCELLENT! EXCELLENT! BETTER THAN EVER!
Thanks for the update!
DON'T FORGET...order STOCK LENGTH arms.
Sorry for the confusion, the site has been updated and the arms are now listed.
Thanks for all the kind words John, we're very happy that you are using the arms like they should be used, hard!
Thanks for all the kind words John, we're very happy that you are using the arms like they should be used, hard!
- Thread starter
- #77
Excellent! Nice pictures. I recognize a couple! LOL!
And man...are the skeptics missing out when they don't jump onto these arms on this vehicle. These arms are PERFECT and in my opinion necessary for the 100. And, the driveshaft is a non-issue. I've proved it so.
And man...are the skeptics missing out when they don't jump onto these arms on this vehicle. These arms are PERFECT and in my opinion necessary for the 100. And, the driveshaft is a non-issue. I've proved it so.
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Only prob is they are only LISTED for the 80, and when you do a site search for "100 series" you get no hits, so you actually have to read the info under the 80 listing, then ring up to find out about the mods.
The listing needs to be updated so a casual scan of the site brings up 100 series info, complete with tech details and mods required.
My thoughts
Any thoughts on whether or not the metal sleeve that is inside the bushing in these LCA's is replaceable so that the 100 hardware (i.e., bolts) could be readily utilized?
I have a set of Slee HD LCA's that I've managed to bend up, and they shipped with two sets of sleeves--one for the 80 series hardware and one for the 100 series. As far as I can tell they only differ in the "inner" diameter to match the bolt sizes, while the outer diameter, which interfaces with the bushing, is always the same. Would it be possible to use the 100 series sleeve that came with the Slee HD LCA's with the Wild West LCA's to enable one to continue using the 100 series hardware?
I have no real affinity to the 100 series bolts, but this would reduce one step in making the move...
I have a set of Slee HD LCA's that I've managed to bend up, and they shipped with two sets of sleeves--one for the 80 series hardware and one for the 100 series. As far as I can tell they only differ in the "inner" diameter to match the bolt sizes, while the outer diameter, which interfaces with the bushing, is always the same. Would it be possible to use the 100 series sleeve that came with the Slee HD LCA's with the Wild West LCA's to enable one to continue using the 100 series hardware?
I have no real affinity to the 100 series bolts, but this would reduce one step in making the move...