Wild West Off-Road 2nd Generation High Clearance Lower Control Arms

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Good discussions here.

On the driveshaft comment, I took our 80-series across the Con with the WWOR arms and our shaft was in great condition at the end. One is always conscious of the rear diff placement anyway and it's a priority to avoid contact, as it is a sure detriment to progress if hung on a rock, not to mention yoke, driveshaft or even major pumpkin damage.

On the clearance being "minimal"--not at all, we're actually talking a minimum of 3 1/2 inches of additional clearance. I just went out and measured and the high point of the WWOR bar is approximately 14 1/2 inches off the ground at its curve point. I'd LOVE to have 3 1/2 more inches of clearance under my Cruiser as a whole (heck, who wouldn't?), but without upgrading our 35" tires to 39's it's kinda hard. But 3.5 inches (minimum) of additional clearance is pretty substantial in the wheeling world.

Point in fact: look at the clockable transfer case adapters Marlin sells. You gain 1 3/16" clearance with it. Marlin's rotated crossmember gets you 3" inches more clearance. Clearance is the name of the wheeling game--or at least a major part of it--and many parts are made just for this reason.

I just don't see the point in hanging up on ANY rock. Any impact hurts progress.
IMHO COG is fairly important as well. Gaining clearance without sacrificing COG is the real trick.

The one time impacting rocks can be beneficial is when you ride your slider over a rock and use that action to pivot your rig through a tight turn. Probably not a maneuver the average 100 owner will have much occasion to use. :lol:
 
Probably not a maneuver the average 100 owner will have much occasion to use. :lol:

Nor will the AVERAGE 80 owner. :p

I've done this several times. In fact, an ARB locked rig is even better than an OEM locked rig. You want your ass end to REALLY pivot around a rock?

UNlock CENTER
Lock ARB rear

TURN/PIVOT ON A DIME! Ask me how I know. :D
 
Well, of all the postees there's only one person who has tried these arms. He stated they were a huge help. Whatchoo been reading?

Well, to put his comments into context, it would be interesting to see if he paid full price as the first "buyer" as he stated, and/or if any article was mentioned during the purchase discussions, to give any credit to someone who has an opportunity to assist his buy prices, by stating good intent, on such products.

Perhaps if he were to come back to us on his buy price, and wether promoting them in any way was a part of the purchase price, so people could tell how much to value his opinion.

Should that not happen, we can only wait for someone with a truly impartial view, to post findings.
 
Whatever, dude.

Paying for a part or not has nothing to do with my review, nor ANY review in 4WD Toyota Owner magazine--period. Talk to anyone who was part of my group across the Rubicon for Marlin Crawler's Roundup in 2007. Jason from Locktup.com would be a good start. Trail tested speaks for itself in front of plenty of wheeling witnesses. The Wild West arms kicked ass on a run that went from Loon to the Springs in a day, easily.

I stand by my words, money ain't got nothing to do with it. Either they perform and hold up to abuse, or they don't. Pictures say it all--Nuff said.

Oh and those are Snake Racing's caster corrected front arms on it, too.
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More trail testing

Marlin's run 2007
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and a few more

Wild West arms NOT hitting rock when normal ones would have.
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Finals

last pics of Rubicon test
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So if you disagree with me, you paid full price, and an article wasnt discussed as part of the "supply agreement" ???

Were there any "standard arm" 80's on the trip, that couldnt go where you did when testing?

I see the tailshaft has become the lowset point, where its rubbing on the rock in one pic there too.
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David: Let it go bro. You will not win with him. It's not worth the war. Oh, and congrats for getting your mag onto the Barnes and Nobles stand!

When I get the arms on I'll review. I PAID FULL PRICE BY THE WAY. :D

I do know the future though. If my review and testing goes well, this dude will have another reason to doubt the results. I think he'll tell me that 0.6" clearance improvement is meaningless. :D
 
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:rolleyes:

let's stay nice, eh!
 
Roger that, both of ya, and even to ATS :beer: I just got riled over him saying the review was some kind of sellout trade of a product for a feature story. If they would have failed on the Rubicon, everyone, especially me, would have known about it, and written it. It's all good.

We now return you to your regularly scheduled programming.:cheers:
 
Roger that, both of ya, and even to ATS :beer: I just got riled over him saying the review was some kind of sellout trade of a product for a feature story. :cheers:

I never said "it was a sellout" I said, for your information to be taken as an objective opinion, it would be great to know the details the transaction was based on.

They made the Con, great, so have normal arms, no one is disputing that, I simply gave you the opportunity to explain how objective your opinion on the arms were, and I quote,

"Perhaps if he were to come back to us on his buy price, and wether promoting them in any way was a part of the purchase price, so people could tell how much to value his opinion.

Should that not happen, we can only wait for someone with a truly impartial view, to post findings."

No one was accused of anything, but simply offered an opportunity to explain.
 
OK, the arms are in. There are REALLY HEAVY DUTY. I am glad I waited. VERY GLAD. The pics don't do justice. These arms are HUGE....almost slider huge. I waited until the last minute to take pics so they aren't that great. Once they are on (later today) I'll take better ones.

I luv the newly added skid plates on the second gen models. Should help to protect the weld making them even stronger!

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The rear of the bar touts a skid as well.

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Bent arms offer added clearance compared to straight ones.

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TEST: Pretend this is a ledge or rock you need to climb. Resting on the arm will stop progress unless you hit it and risk bending.

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You need about 6-more inches before the tire climbs the "ledge". Will the new arms afford the needed clearance to climb the "ledge"? Check back AFTER the arms are on.

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WHOA NELLIE! My mechanic just called. From center of bolt hole to bolt hole these arms are 7/8" LONGER than stock. 100 arms and 80 arms are the same length, just a different bushing. SOMEBODY made a boo-boo. These won't work on either truck. I'm picking the 100 up soon. Will contact WW Off-Road tomorrow.
 
WHOA NELLIE! My mechanic just called. From center of bolt hole to bolt hole these arms are 7/8" LONGER than stock. 100 arms and 80 arms are the same length, just a different bushing. SOMEBODY made a boo-boo. These won't work on either truck. I'm picking the 100 up soon. Will contact WW Off-Road tomorrow.


That might actually not be a problem. My old 80 arms were custom made to be (IIRC) 0.5" longer than stock, in order to properly locate the wheel in the well after lifting. As you know, as you lift the truck, the wheel effectively moves forward due to the angle of the arms (sort of like the axle also moves sideways due to the Panhard rod as you lift). So this may be designed purposely in order to put the tire back where it was pre-lift, in terms of wheelbase at least.

Or it could be mistake, I guess... Let us know what WWOR says.

edit: Also helps keep the diff flange properly lined up with the t-case output flange.
 
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