Why you need to service your parking brake (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 23, 2007
Threads
52
Messages
653
Location
Va Beach
Like many others that I've read on here, my parking brake was in sad shape and getting worse. I didn't really understand how the system worked so I just kept trying to tighten it every year to pass inspection until this year one bell crank was completely seized and the other very close. The guy at the shop wouldn't pass it even though it would hold the rig, but he really did me a favor because next year I would have had to cut these out and replace everything. I wasn't able to find a lot of info on here so I took as many pics as I could with gunk coated hands to hopefully help others.

Here's some supplies:
-At least one full can of PB Blaster (maybe two)
-Permatex extreme temp brake grease
-Various punches, pliers, prybars, hammers and mallets from small to large

The pics aren't really in order and I didn't get a lot of tear down pics since it was dirty. It comes apart fairly simple though.

-Remove wheels, calipers, rotors and shoes/hardware (if you're not familiar with it, take a picture or do one side at a time to remember how it goes back together)

On backside of backing plate:
-Remove springs on brake cable/bell crank
-Remove small retaining pin, remove bigger pin with punch
-Remove two small bolts

On hub side:
-Disconnect cable from shoe lever
-Remove c-clip
-Remove pin with punch
-Remove bell crank from vehicle

*All the remove steps were not as easy as it seems. Mine was rusted pretty bad so it took LOTS of PB spray and working on something else while it was soaking, giving another shot and so on. Once everything was apart, scrape, brush whatever you can do to get rid of the rust. Then coat everything in some good grease. The permatex is used by a lot of racers and it says it stands 3000 degrees. Then just put it all back together.

-Adjust shoes (tighten until contact with rotor, then back off a little)
-Adjust bell cranks (adjust little bumper thing to take up slack from shoes)
-Adjust hand brake side inside cab (take up slack in cable/test to make sure it holds vehicle in drive)

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more pics...

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So glad I don't live in the rust belt...
 
The 80's park brake is a very common problem here in Oz - my 80 has rear disk brakes so the park brake is a totally seperate thing to the actual rear brakes. I've tried adjusting it many times and it's good for a few days, then useless again. I'm going to be doing a full service on the rear brakes and hubs soon, so the handbrakes will get attention then.

With the front of my 80 pointing downhill the parkbrake won't hold, but with the back facing downhill it grabs and holds fine. I think that's a function of how the mechanism inside the brake disk works. There is someone here in Oz who reckons that making the dogbones slightly longer improves the handbrake function. I'm also investigating whether my actual handbrake cable itself (from the lever between the front seats) is stretched/worn to the point where it is no good.

Craig.
 
The 80's park brake is a very common problem here in Oz - my 80 has rear disk brakes so the park brake is a totally seperate thing to the actual rear brakes. I've tried adjusting it many times and it's good for a few days, then useless again. I'm going to be doing a full service on the rear brakes and hubs soon, so the handbrakes will get attention then.

With the front of my 80 pointing downhill the parkbrake won't hold, but with the back facing downhill it grabs and holds fine. I think that's a function of how the mechanism inside the brake disk works. There is someone here in Oz who reckons that making the dogbones slightly longer improves the handbrake function. I'm also investigating whether my actual handbrake cable itself (from the lever between the front seats) is stretched/worn to the point where it is no good.

Craig.

I am tackling this as well. What is the "dogbone" you are referring to? The handbrake handle?

Have you tried adjusting the bellcrank bolt on the rubber stopper?
 
The dog bone is the upper spacer/spreader, you will know it when you see it.
The fsm covers this in detail, both disassemble and the correct re assembly process.
One thing that impressed me, was the size of the parking brake or in this case e brake. The brake that probably never ever got used on 99% of all us spec 80s is almost if not larger than most other period correct rear drum service brakes.
I just wrapped this job up on my 97 last weekend. I replaced every thing with new and mostly oem parts.

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I don't know if the drum rear brake setup uses the same 'dogbone' as what's used in the disk rear brake setup (which my 80 has). Just remembered it mentioned in the lcool forums a few times.

Craig.
 

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