Why wheel spacers?

[rookie54]

I'll keep this basic but would like any ideas or thoughts on the subject.
-WHEEL SPACERS....?
So, if we are to assume there is an ideal spacing(NO rub during flex or turning) with a stock ---through---> lifted vehicle "why use wheel spacers?" I can guess; one reason is to use a wheel you already own after you make modifications(new lift or tires) or you want to use a wheel that does not come in the back spacing needed for you application. Maybe some "ideas" about using what equates to a more centered wheel is "stronger" or "balanced," but that seems a stretch to me. I realize some style of spacers can be bolted on but seems "cleaner" to me to just run a wheel that kills two birds with one stone if you'll allow the term.
For example I used a 2.5" offset wheel on my 40 with 35's and seems to be perfect. I could have used a 3.5" backspacing and 1" wheel spacers but it would have done the same thing as far as I can tell and cost more....

 

[badass]

anyone who does any serious wheeling knows how beneficial it is to be wider.

a wider stance means a more stable truck.

 

[Trollhole]

I have rims currently that have the propper back spacing. They look fine on the truck. It wasn't until I got off road in a high flex issue that I realized my rear tires were eating my frame and limiting my flex. I got 1.5's to fix that issue.

Used rims are usually cheap. Finding the perfect ones are not. Thus spacers.

Also there are people who like to run the skinnies on stock rims. It looks a little wierd on a tall tire. Spacers fix that.

 

[Eshu Elegua]

I got a set 17'' fjc rims black steelies i know few people have it and they run it with spacers. On dec.when i got my 1976 fj40 came with the spacers showing in the pictures,so i was lucky to have it here now cos otherwise i will have to buy it,i plan to run LTB 34x10.50x17 and have no power steering (yet) it will rub on the rods if i dont use the spacer.

 

[Fuzzy Logic]

There are so many 'issues' to consider when using wheel spacers. Here are a few I can remember being told about by one of The Olde Guys (WWI vet) with lots of experience:
1 Does the spacer move the rolling center of the wheel away from the bearing mid-line more than the maximum allowed amount? Factory hubs/wheels are designed to make the stresses on the bearings as small as possible.
2 Do the spacers allow the wheel to fully seat as is the case on the factory hub flange? On many factory hubs, there is a small recess around the base of each lug so that the wheel deforms a bit when the lug is tightened. This allows the wheel lugnut seat area to act as its own 'lock washer'.
3 If the spacer is aluminum, is it coated so that there will be no corrosion at the point of contact with the steel hub. Even a good anodized aluminum will need to be cleaned and 'repainted' regularly.
4 If the spacer has its own lug nuts (not the spacers that allow the factory lugs to stick through holes), are they splined and a pressfit or are they bonded (glued) in? If the spacers are the pass though type that use the factory lug nuts, are they long enough and strong enough?
5 How will the spacers affect the steering and suspension geometry? This is not so much of a problem with solid axles of course.
The Olde Guy, back in the 70s, insisted I not use spacers. I ended up using wheels with a 1/4 inch increased positive offset and he still disapproved.
Times have changed, it may all be different now but then again....

 

[LC_Hamma]

The only issue(s) I had w/ using the spacers, twice I disassembled my front outer knuckles only to find my newish lower roller bearings seperated out of their cages. I've never had that problem before w/o using the spacers.

 

[Senor Aguas]

I design OEM aluminum wheels for a living and can confirm #2. We machine what's called concavity into every wheel. The mounting surface is not planar like you might think, its concave. The inner diameter is 0.075+-0.05 mm (different for different customers) concave to the outer diameter. It flattens out when mounted. This is key to retaining lug nut torque tension. I've long wondered whether spacers have any built in concavity.

And #3, you'll always get some galvanic corrosion between the aluminum wheel (or spacer) and the steel hub. Typical OEM wheels are not painted/annodized/clear coated in this area. The diameter tolerance in this area is as low as +-0.04 mm.

I'm not totally against spacers if used to get the wheel in the correct position. But, using a 3 inch spacer just to increase track width over stock might not be the best idea. The moment created by that increased distance could really multiply the load seen at the bearing, etc.

My $0.02

There are so many 'issues' to consider when using wheel spacers. Here are a few I can remember being told about by one of The Olde Guys (WWI vet) with lots of experience:
1 Does the spacer move the rolling center of the wheel away from the bearing mid-line more than the maximum allowed amount? Factory hubs/wheels are designed to make the stresses on the bearings as small as possible.
2 Do the spacers allow the wheel to fully seat as is the case on the factory hub flange? On many factory hubs, there is a small recess around the base of each lug so that the wheel deforms a bit when the lug is tightened. This allows the wheel lugnut seat area to act as its own 'lock washer'.
3 If the spacer is aluminum, is it coated so that there will be no corrosion at the point of contact with the steel hub. Even a good anodized aluminum will need to be cleaned and 'repainted' regularly.
4 If the spacer has its own lug nuts (not the spacers that allow the factory lugs to stick through holes), are they splined and a pressfit or are they bonded (glued) in? If the spacers are the pass though type that use the factory lug nuts, are they long enough and strong enough?
5 How will the spacers affect the steering and suspension geometry? This is not so much of a problem with solid axles of course.
The Olde Guy, back in the 70s, insisted I not use spacers. I ended up using wheels with a 1/4 inch increased positive offset and he still disapproved.
Times have changed, it may all be different now but then again....

 

[Volcano cruiser]

recent install observation

I just watched the install of 2" spacers on a Nissan Patrol owned by one of my local club members. As soon as he began to put them on they wouldn't seat flush as the back of the spacers was flat and his factory hub flange had very slight curve and a ridge on it. He ended up running them and his rig over to the machine shop and getting the back of the spacers ground out slightly to match the curve. After that they dropped right into place.

 

[aktundra]

Is it an over simplification to state " spacers are ALWAYS the second choice"?