Why do the dash instrument lights not work but dash hazard and dash blinker lights work? Also the guages work as they should.

[dplenty99]

Why do the dash instrument lights not work but dash hazard and dash blinker lights work? Also the guages work as they should.
A fuse would be too easy, right?! I just bought new bulbs so I may try that and replace fuse in the morning.
I checked this post which will be helpful. >> Fuse box question - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fuse-box-question.214199/

 

[igotta40]

Different circuits feed the items that you mentioned. The illumination for the gauge cluster feeds from the headlight switch. What year production is your FJ40?

 

[pb4ugo]

What year are you working on? Does it have a light in the dash above the knobs? Does it work?

 

[dplenty99]

Its a 1974. The second pic is with the engine running. Thanks for your consideration and input.

 

[eaj71]

That light says brakes.?

 

[dplenty99]

That light says brakes.?

Yes. Its for the parking brake I suppose, which i had on when I took the photos

 

[igotta40]

Mine is also a 1974. You should have a dimmer in the headlight switch. Make sure it’s turned to bright. Also, on the switch knob, the word LIGHTS should illuminate when the knob is pulled out.

 

[dplenty99]

Mine is also a 1974. You should have a dimmer in the headlight switch. Make sure it’s turned to bright. Also, on the switch knob, the word LIGHTS should illuminate when the knob is pulled out.

Twisting the knob,(the dimmer) doesn’t do anything and the word lights doesn’t illuminate. I should add the headlights do work when you pull out the knob. Thanks again

 

[pb4ugo]

If you remove the gauge cluster to check the bulbs, be sure to disconnect the battery 1st. The dimmer switch reostat can get dirty. You might try twisting it back and forth a few times to see if you can get them to work.

 

[dplenty99]

If you remove the gauge cluster to check the bulbs, be sure to disconnect the battery 1st. The dimmer switch reostat can get dirty. You might try twisting it back and forth a few times to see if you can get them to work.

I got it the rig in late November and I recall that the gauge cluster lights were lit up but very dim when I briefly drove it at night the first time. So would that be a good sign I think that it may need a little tinkering. Any other suggestions are gladly welcomed, as I’m new to this Fj40 world again. I had 2 fj but that was 25 years ago

 

[CruiserInProgress]

I recently had the same issue with my 79.

I pulled the headlight switch and cleaned (with vinegar), the contacts as well as the dimmer rheostat that controls the lighting on the cluster illumination, the light behind the headlight swutch (illuminates knob) if you have that option, and maybe the under dash light.

On my dimmer (headlight knob) to get full brightness, I turn mine fully counter-clockwise.

If you unplug that bulb socket in the back of the headlight switch you can check for power there.

 

[dplenty99]

I recently had the same issue with my 79.

I pulled the headlight switch and cleaned (with vinegar), the contacts as well as the dimmer rheostat that controls the lighting on the cluster illumination, the light behind the headlight swutch (illuminates knob) if you have that option, and maybe the under dash light.

On my dimmer (headlight knob) to get full brightness, I turn mine fully counter-clockwise.

If

Where is the dimmer rheostat? But i’ll get out the Haynes manual in the morning

 

[CruiserInProgress]

Where is the dimmer rheostat? But i’ll get out the Haynes manual in the morning

Pull the headlight switch and if yours is like mine, you'll see it behind the knob, a circular coil with a brass wiper.

Not all FJ40 headlight switches have this capability.

Mine looks like this

 

[dplenty99]

Pull the headlight switch and if yours is like mine, you'll see it behind the knob, a circular coil with a brass wiper.

Not all FJ40 headlight switches have this capability.

Thanks. I’ll do that in the morning. I appreciate your insight

 

[igotta40]

When I first got my 1974 a lot of the electrical stuff was sketchy. The wipers, lights, heater fan, etc. 99% of it was dirty contacts in the switches. I spent a little time cleaning contacts and then everything worked. 12 volts is a very small amount of electromotive force, so it doesn’t take much dirt or corrosion to interrupt a circuit. You may need a new lamp in the headlight knob.

 

[dplenty99]

When I first got my 1974 a lot of the electrical stuff was sketchy. The wipers, lights, heater fan, etc. 99% of it was dirty contacts in the switches. I spent a little time cleaning contacts and then everything worked. 12 volts is a very small amount of electromotive force, so it doesn’t take much dirt or corrosion to interrupt a circuit. You may need a new lamp in the headlight knob.

I bought this the other day to clean the fuse panel. In your experience would something B like this electronicccleaner be ok for the dirt contacts

 

[CruiserInProgress]

When I first got my 1974 a lot of the electrical stuff was sketchy. The wipers, lights, heater fan, etc. 99% of it was dirty contacts in the switches. I spent a little time cleaning contacts and then everything worked. 12 volts is a very small amount of electromotive force, so it doesn’t take much dirt or corrosion to interrupt a circuit. You may need a new lamp in the headlight knob.

Ditto for my 79 that had been sitting for over a decade. A lot of cleaning switches and contacts to get things working again. I used vinegar, sometimes a little fine sand paper, then dielectric grease for lubrication and to keep corrosion at bay.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Bent 30 Cal bore cleaning brush works great in the fuse box for cleaning the inside clips that hold the fuses. You need to look carefully at every wire connection that has a crimp connection - corrosion can crawl up the wire under the insulation disrupting the circuit - VOM to test continuity and resistance will tell you if your wire/connection is good.

Bend the tabs back as little as possible when prying open switches and stuff - push them back closed gently. Man handle them and they snap off and its glue time. I bought a spot welder for building battery pack it might be able to attach new tabs, I haven't tried it yet.

Switches and other things can have spring loaded ball detents, so doing your disassembly in a cardboard box with a good work light helps. Go to the junk yard, harvest some switches of all kinds - take them apart to see how they work, then see if you can put them back together. Works for all kinds of things like starters, alternators, carbs, tranny/transfer.

Don't throw anything away electrical/mechanical without ripping it apart, you can harvest nuts/bolts/screws/e-clips.... for future repairs.

Way more entertaining to problem solve and fix something than watching the idiot box chocked full of commercials.

 

[igotta40]

I bought this the other day to clean the fuse panel. In your experience would something B like this electronicccleaner be ok for the dirt contacts

View attachment 3849047

I would make sure it’s safe on plastics, like this CRC. If chemical cleaners don’t work, mechanical cleaning (steel wool) will.

 

[dplenty99]

Pull the headlight switch and if yours is like mine, you'll see it behind the knob, a circular coil with a brass wiper.

Not all FJ40 headlight switches have this capability.

Mine looks like this

View attachment 3849045

View attachment 3849046

this might be a stupid question...I took the knob off but how do I remove the circular coil with a brass wiper? thanks again