Who's wants an off road skid plate?
- Thread starter Hobies
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- Thread starter
- #22
Ordered a handful
Sweet. Let me know how they fit. The stock bolt heads are tall. They look like they Might be too tall for that domed washer. I was thinking of getting some replacement bolts that have a shorter head on them and the using that domed washer.
!! I've had those on bead locks and the access to the bolt head is QUICKLy gone as the lip is smeared into the opening . JUNK!! I had to grind/cut them down multiple times to get at the bolt head
Where were you an hour ago?!?!?!?
But once you did you got access to the bolt head right?
Yes, lolWhere were you an hour ago?!?!?!?
But once you did you got access to the bolt head right?
I think that skid plate looks tits and the price is cheap. Judging from what I pay for lazer cut 3/8ths hr plate, I'd say this group is lucky hobie even wants to deal with the hassle of getting more done for people
I paid over $130 for a 1uz oil pan flange(no bends).
I paid over $130 for a 1uz oil pan flange(no bends).
I made my own based on creeper sleeper design and it was fun but alot of work to fit it right. I'd buy this for $300 for a one piece design in a heartbeat .
...via IH8MUD app
...via IH8MUD app
Why not use countersunk allen head bolts? Obviously you would need to machine the skid plate to accept them.
That does look nice! I thought it was going to be some plates and square tubing welded together.
Very interested. 
- Thread starter
- #32
Na man, this thing will be so hot the ladies will come running haha
- Thread starter
- #33
Ya sounds good for a one off but like I said on the last page, u have to use slotted holes because of frame inconsistencies. And obviously you don't countersink slots. But u can use Allen heads of you want.
Again, not unless you use captive bolts. How do you make it captive? You machine off a few threads closest to the head of the bolt.
- Thread starter
- #35
Ya I don't think we are on same page. Captive bolts don't solve the problem which is: "frame inconsistencies" which make it mandatory for slotted holes which cancel out the ability to countersink them. This is why most all stock and after market frame bolt holes are slotted.
Does that make sense?
That does look a lot better than I was expecting!
Yes, but making them captive also takes care of some inconsistencies. It's commonly used for attached something threaded to something else threaded but it also helps small inconsistencies with figment. If we are talking multitudes of 1/4" then yeah, slotted.
What's the plan for the transmission mount studs/nuts?
- Thread starter
- #39
the plan is: it mounts to the stock 4 bolts that the stock crossmember bolts to at the frame. this crossmember will not be attached to the tranny and it shouldn't be. that would cause some headaches. it of course will use the stock mounting hardware at the tcase.
I will be running this next week on the dusy. anyone gonna be there? then see if we need to make any changes when we take it off. i will let you all know how it fits and if theres any issues with it and take some pics for yall. we will continue working on this Monday. I have to make 3 of these for sure, me and two other friends who have 80s.
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Looks good... Here are a couple things to consider before wasting time/money (from my experience).
1. 3/8" steel, while beefy and super heavy, is not strong enough as a cross member on these trucks without bracing/supports. It will bend/deflect across this distance.
2. Because you are replacing the crossmember, you need a way to support the tranny/transfer while swapping them out. Because of this, I chose not to make the tranny skid a part of the cross member. This allows a jack to support the tranny while the crossmember is being replaced.
3. The transmission mount bolts are really long. Like 2"... You have to find a way to protect them or this is pointless.
4. You will need to support the transfer case skid. This can be with sides that stiffen it or a brace. If you do not, it will bend and touch the transfer case when you use it. Experience.
And just to prove I'm not webwheeling here, here's a picture of mine. Yours won't have the link mounts obviously but this might give you a better idea of what will be involved more than just cutting and bending a heavy ass piece of steel...
Good luck, looking forward to seeing it!
