White smoke 2L TE engine

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Dec 7, 2009
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I finnally got my RHD 91 Land Cruiser Prado back after the 2L TE engine had been rebuil and it was working fine. It was blowing out a gray\black smoke screen and it took 4 different mech till we isolated it to electrical problems

One of the mech shops that tried to fix it had put a hack saw to the muffler pipe and it had bee repaired with a weld. Everything was fine untill I was on a ruff road and the muffler pipe broke. It ran OK except for the deisel smoke I was able to get it home and have CAA tow it to a muffler shop.

The muffler was fixed but it having a white smoke come out the exhaust which turns gray when under load. The coolant level was OK. I had the oil changed when I picked it up but could not replace the filter because they did not carry them.

The engine had been rebuilt with a 3L head, gaskets, rings, etc. After the rubuild it was blowing out what I would call a heavy smoke screen, what I have now is more of a white exhaust. It does not go away when you run it.
 
Are you sure this is diesel smoke? What does it smell like? Are you breaking the rebuilt engine in properly? How much smoke are you getting?

I know John at Radd Cruisers has mentioned a number of times that smoke issues on this engine are very hard to figure out - except for that sickening sweet smelling white smoke.
 
Seems like regular exaust smoke

Exhaust doesn't regularly smoke. It either smells like burnt engine oil, diesel, burnt coolant or water vapor. If you can tell people what it smells like, then they might be able to help you a bit more. Also, give us an idea of how much smoke. Is it a wisp or enormous clouds of smoke.

To give you an idea, I followed a HJ61 today for a bit on the freeway. Going up the hills under load she was smoking a bit of white. It smelled like unburnt diesel. My guess would have been that she was not getting enough fuel for the air entering the cylinders for proper combustion. Likely possibilities are fuel system restrictions like a clogged fuel filter or a crack allowing a bit of air into the fuel system.
 
Sometimes new mufflers and exhaust piping will do that. On my new exhaust for my BJ 74 it would be whitish for about a day.
 
Exhaust doesn't regularly smoke. It either smells like burnt engine oil, diesel, burnt coolant or water vapor. If you can tell people what it smells like, then they might be able to help you a bit more. Also, give us an idea of how much smoke. Is it a wisp or enormous clouds of smoke.

It starts as a white wisps and smells like water vapour, when you put some load on it like going up a grade it goes grey and smells diesel.

It is a lot better then what it was, the engine was rebuilt and after the rebuild it i blew out a thick heavy grey\black smoke. I brought it to 3 mechanics who could not find the problem.

The last mechanic that looked at it said there is notheing wrong with this engine and looked at the wiring and found several grounds and wire that where not connected or in the wrong place. After he fixed the wiring everything was fine until the muffler pipe broke. This is more normal compared to what it was.
 
Changed the oil and fuel filters today, but still have the same problem. When idling it is normal exhaust but when driving it becomes gray. Have a hard time getting it ab0ve 30KM. When I got it back home and opened the hood I found exhaust leaking out around the Turbo
 
Changed the oil and fuel filters today, but still have the same problem. When idling it is normal exhaust but when driving it becomes gray. Have a hard time getting it ab0ve 30KM. When I got it back home and opened the hood I found exhaust leaking out around the Turbo

Pictures are really worth a 1000 words. Take some pics and post them up.

You need to be more specific in your description of the problem to get help on the internet. Is the exhaust leak from the turbo or just from around the area of the turbo? Is the turbo siezed? Is the turbo housing cracked? Personally, if the engine was recently rebuilt and under warranty, I would be taking it back to the people that did the work rather then mucking with it myself.
 
Firstly I would like to say "I don't have a clue". I opened the hood and checked for loose connections or bolts, everything looked fine. Excaust is OK until you give it gas and then it turns into a gray cloud and goes back to normal after you release the pedal.

I looked down at the fuel pump and noticed a dripping. The leakage seems to be coming from a sensor above the injector connections on the fuel pump. The photo is a spare pump that I have.

Everything was working fine until the exaust pipe broke and the engine started running ruff. Could this cause the fuel pump to be knocked out of adjustment. How do you adjust these pumps, the engine is a 2L TE and the engine manual does not cover the electronic fuel pump. The fuel pump number is Toyota 22100-5B301. I have read that you have to match up 2 lines but I don't see any.
PICT0248.webp
 
These are electronically controlled pumps and I haven't a clue about how to work on them. I do not think this is a pump a back yard mechanic can just tinker with.

The 2LTE has a bad rap for a very good reason. They are money pits. Ask Crushers. Other than that, the older Prados are nice little rigs.

Having said that, you need to decide on how long you want to feed the money pit. You could have the pump fixed and try to sell it ASAP. You could to an engine swap. Or, you could cut your losses and just scrap it.

It could be that it is just the leak on the pump which is causing your problem. <I am guessing that it could also be sucking air> I think it is just a coincidence about it happening the same time as the exhaust. If you do get a diesel injection shop to work on it, make sure they are Bosch / Denso certified. They will likely want to rebuild your pump. Tell them you just want the leak fixed by replacing the seal. I am assuming it can be done with the pump on the motor, so it shouldn't cost that much.
 
have you been using the fuel additive that has been recommended on this board for a few years now? if not then it is the seals (and that is what it seems to be). the low sulfur diesel is BRUTAL on rotory pumps. :mad:
you can thank our great government for this one:rolleyes: (maybe send them the bill since they caused the problem, let me know how that works out :ban: )

Canuck, i tried to talk him out of buying a LJ before he even put the money down.:hhmm:
some people just HAVE to learn the hard $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ way. :doh:

:meh:
 
have you been using the fuel additive that has been recommended on this board for a few years now? if not then it is the seals (and that is what it seems to be). the low sulfur diesel is BRUTAL on rotory pumps. :mad:
you can thank our great government for this one:rolleyes: (maybe send them the bill since they caused the problem, let me know how that works out :ban: )

Canuck, i tried to talk him out of buying a LJ before he even put the money down.:hhmm:
some people just HAVE to learn the hard $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ way. :doh:

:meh:

It seems that every JDM diesels IP manufacturer dropped the rubber seals in their 93 model year for the Viton seals. My Safari is a 91 and it leaked within 6 months. My wife's is a 93 (late 92 production date) and it is still nice and dry. Both have had lube additive in every fill-up since I got them.

I didn't know that Postman was warned. I am still surprised by the number of people that continue to buy the Prado or Surf with the 2LTE given its track record. All you have to do is google "2LTE Problems" and you've got the sad history of this engine at your finger tips: 2lte problems - Google Search.
 
Postman -

There are seals available for these pumps. The old style seals are prone to drying up and getting hard - then leaking. This is related to age, heat, and the low sulfur diesel.

If you can figure out exactly which seals they are, they can be ordered in.

The pumps are also available as complete new units. They are not simple to rebuild, and there are very few shops that have the technology required to rebuild them. I believe there may be one shop in Vancouver that can do it, but don't hold your breath.

If the pump is otherwise working fine, and it's just leaks you're dealing with, then try new seals first.


~John
 
It could be that it is just the leak on the pump which is causing your problem. <I am guessing that it could also be sucking air> I think it is just a coincidence about it happening the same time as the exhaust.

Remember I don't have a clue :confused: Where could it be sucking the air? Would that be the fuel pump or air intake? I read something about collapsed intake pipes, but they all looked OK
 
have you been using the fuel additive that has been recommended on this board for a few years now? if not then it is the seals (and that is what it seems to be). the low sulfur diesel is BRUTAL on rotory pumps. :mad:

Have not been using an additive. What should I be using?
 
Postman -

There are seals available for these pumps. The old style seals are prone to drying up and getting hard - then leaking. This is related to age, heat, and the low sulfur diesel.

If you can figure out exactly which seals they are, they can be ordered in.

~John

Where would I get parts here in Canada?
 
Remember I don't have a clue :confused: Where could it be sucking the air? Would that be the fuel pump or air intake? I read something about collapsed intake pipes, but they all looked OK

It could be sucking air from the same place it is leaking. I knew of someone who had a similar leak on a Zexel pump. Under a specific rpm it must have been sucking air. At any rate, you have to fix the leak if you plan to drive it. I know that if you get pulled over for an inspection here, that is an automatic fail. I presume it is the same there. While diesel is not like gasoline, it will light up under the right conditions and it is great smelling the fumes coming through your vents.

Have not been using an additive. What should I be using?

I have used Standyne and lately am using Power Service's Diesel Supplement. Some people just add 1% veggie oil and others add Two Stroke oil.

Where would I get parts here in Canada?

You can start with John at Radd Cruisers seeing he's been answering your Qs.
 
Howels fuel treatment, 3/4" every tank (the big bottle).
downside, must be stored outside of the vehicle, this stuff STINKS. i usually store it under the hood.
 
I have difficulty finding parts or informatrion on the Toyota 22100-5B301 fuel pump. Who makes this fuel pump for toyota?
 
I believe it is Denso (aka Toyota) and they make it under license from Bosch who designed the VE rotary pumps.

A Bosch / Denso qualified diesel fuel injection shop should be able to take care of you in fixing the leak and getting the parts. I don't think you sound like you should be attempting this yourself.
 

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