White smoke 2L TE engine

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I believe it is Denso (aka Toyota) and they make it under license from Bosch who designed the VE rotary pumps.

A Bosch / Denso qualified diesel fuel injection shop should be able to take care of you in fixing the leak and getting the parts. I don't think you sound like you should be attempting this yourself.

The problem is, there is no deisel mechanic in our area that deals in small trucks and the closest deisel fuel injection shop would be in Nova Scotia.

I have one fellow that will work on it when he has spare time but last job he did it took several months before he was able to look at it. I have to source the parts for him and I have to supply him information so he can fix it. The engine manual I have only covers the manual fuel pump, does anyone know where I can find info on the Toyota 22100-5B301 and how to overhaul it?
 
I have played around with the Bosch VE pump on VW 1.6 diesels. Yes , you can replace some seals easily but it is best to replace everything. Remove the fuel pump and mail it to the shop of your choice. There are a number in Ontario that can do the work but if you want to stay with the east then send it to NS. Any diesel shop worth it's salt will have a test bench where the pump can be fully calibrated and set after the rebuild independent of the vehicle. Believe me you can't duplicate the results that a test bench can deliver. The low pressure delivery pump internal to the Denso may need attention too. I know that it seems like a big wack of change to spend to get it sorted but you have to start somewhere because what you have now is just not working.

If you want my recommendation on a local pump specialist here then let me know.
 
yep, i want the recommendation. hard to find decent pump rebuilders and too expensive to just "crap shoot" for one.
If you want my recommendation on a local pump specialist here then let me know.
 
Wayne, I use Kingston Diesel Injection with all good results. Stay away from FDI in Belleville even though they have a flashy website. If you want someone in the GTA a little closer to you then there is a fellow in Bolton who comes highly recommended as rebuilder. Send a pm for his name and number.
 
thanks for the heads up, no need as of yet but as time goes by i am sure i will need some work done.

cheers
 
The electronic pumps are not the same as the standard rotary pumps.

There are very few shops that are capable of handling the electronic units - according to the local shop here (and he rebuilds lots of Denso, Zexel, Bosch pumps).

The leaky seals are not a major problem to fix on these pumps, but rebuilding the pump is going to be an issue. The top cover seal and the o-rings are available.

A new 2LTE pump will cost about the same or less than a rebuilt one. Take your pick... but I'd just put in a few seals and run a decent fuel lubricity enhancer such as Stanadyne (but there are better ones). Howe's doesn't really do much of anything.

~John




http://www.hbruns.com/images/LubricityStudy.JPG

note that lower scores are better... meaning the ones on the left provide more benefit.
 
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Well had the Land Cruiser towed over to a mechanic so that he could remove the fuel pump and replaced with the spare pump, so I can send the pump out to have the seals replaced. The mechanic was wanting to try to fixx the pump and use parts from the spare. Just what I wanted ending up with two pumps that don't work. I phoned him last night and told him to switch the pumps.

He also told me that I need a new injector because the #1 Cylinder was not firing. All the injectors were removed 3 months ago and sent out to be tested, clean, with two being rebuilt, so the injectors should be good. He changed the injector and it still had the problem.

The engine went through a bad time first having the exhaust pipe brake resulting in back pressure and then the fuel pump started leaking. Once the pump is fixed, would resetting the ECU correct the problem with the cylinder not firing?
 
ummm, the fuel causes the fire not the ECU.
sounds to me like the guy is trying hard on a truck that is cursed.

you need an exorcist, not a mechanic.
 
you need an exorcist, not a mechanic.

:lol: I shouldn't laugh because I have been there wondering what should I do: "Keep dumping money into the pit or try something different?" Perhaps it is still a good time to cut your losses and do an engine swap. Maybe you would be better off with a 22RE in there on the cheap or if you want to stay diesel how about a 1HZ? Or, just sell the whole thing and get a Delica or Pajero if you don't really need/want a LC but need RHD.
 
The electronic pumps are not the same as the standard rotary pumps.


The leaky seals are not a major problem to fix on these pumps, but rebuilding the pump is going to be an issue. The top cover seal and the o-rings are available.


This is what the owner at N.W Diesel told me (NW Fuel Injection Service :: Quality Authorized Service for all your Diesel Injection Needs) in Surrey, BC
when I talked about the 2L-TE Prado I had. He said that resealing the pump was no problem, but rebuilding it was difficult getting parts.
By the way, I put 70,000 kms on mine with nary a problem before I sold it......FWIW. ;)

Cheers,
Gord
 
By the way, I put 70,000 kms on mine with nary a problem before I sold it......FWIW. ;)

Cheers,
Gord

You probably don't drive like Crushers or most people that get a vehicle with a 2LTE. :D They don't seem to have many issues with them in Japan either - but they don't drive like us in SUVs.
 
ummm, 70K is not a milestone for a Cruiser. that is a milestone for a Jeep.
(when you have put 300K on it let me know.)
 
ummm, 70K is not a milestone for a Cruiser. that is a milestone for a Jeep.
(when you have put 300K on it let me know.)


But for a 2L-TE in Canada it is good compared to the all the guys that didnt get back to Alberta or BC Interior before overheating and cracking a cylinder head! ;) Unit showed 147,000 kms at purchase five years ago and was sold last month at 220,000 with no mechanical problems. FWIW

Cheers,
Gord
 
Hi
I just saw this string and it looks like you may have some insight on an issue I am having with my 70 series. Its a 91 2L-TE engine. In short- it smokes very heavily when starting. 10 seconds grey, then white for 2 minutes until I drive, then clear after 2 minutes of driving. No further smoke with the engine above 50 degrees. No power loss. Totally smooth drive but rough warm up. Video attached (vimeo format). some still shots are also in my string from a couple of months back. Fuel filter changed, new fuel lines all tested, fuel pump rebuilt, rebuilt injectors, new glows, timing checked, no mixing oil and antifreeze, compression test on 4 as follows 438, 360,400,395 (2 not great). Head was changed just before I bought it. Gasket looks thicker that normal. The smoke is now largely white with heavy diesel. Lost and going broke at this point and chasing ghosts. Any help would be appreciated.
thanks
 
I can see you have new glow plugs, is there definite proof they are all working? The compression numbers dont look good.
 
Will double check the plugs, do you think the compression (I know #2 is off for sure) may be a smoke factor?
Thanks for taking the time
 
Will double check the plugs, do you think the compression (I know #2 is off for sure) may be a smoke factor?
Thanks for taking the time


Its hard to say, its not down a long way but appears to out of spec on the 10% rule. Usually when one cyl is causing a problem , it will puff smoke in time as that cyl fires.
Diesels need high compression to squeeze the air to ignite the charge as it fed into the engine. When you have less compression you get incomplete burn and it smokes white. The white is from condensation caused by the fuel hitting the cyl walls instead of igniting instantly
(according to my New South Wales government text book for apprentice diesel mechanics).
 

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