2L-TE Hilux issues after new radiator and waterless coolant. Dead Head? (1 Viewer)

[BigNJpn]

Wise elders, I return again for more help.

As I refresher, I swapped in a new radiator and switched to Evans Waterless Coolant. Smoke/vapor pouring out of the overflow tube, and white smoke exhaust.

Removal of the head did NOT show signs of cracking, but I'd already spent them money on a a new head and getting it machined etc so I had the shop replaced it and all gaskets/bolts with Toyota parts.

After firing it up and running after reassembly the exact same issue persists. Running rough and less smoke out of the exhaust but tons out of the overflow reservoir.

Engine was filled to spec with Evans Waterless Coolant and oil.

Please help me wise elders of the Hilux and 2L-TE.

 

[GreenPump]

Removal of the head did NOT show signs of cracking, but I'd already spent them money on a a new head and getting it machined etc so I had the shop replaced it and all gaskets/bolts with Toyota parts.

What type of head gasket was used? Type F? What was the measured thickness of your old gasket upon removal?

Who did the machine work? Did you use the chinese/taiwanese reman head?

 

[BigNJpn]

What type of head gasket was used? Type F? What was the measured thickness of your old gasket upon removal?

Who did the machine work? Did you use the chinese/taiwanese reman head?

I ordered Toyota 0411154094 for the complete gasket kit. I opted for a Brasil manufactured head from Quantico after talking to a few Corvette restorers who e used their heads to great success. It was prepped and checked by my local head-specific machine shop. I'll have to check with my mechanic on diameter measurements.

 

[BigNJpn]

I also picked up this head gasket as a backup for diameter discrepancy.

Should I have chose this type you mentioned instead? HEAD GASKET 2LTE HILUX SURF MARK F - https://www.terraintamer.com/estore/head-gasket-2lte-hilux-surf-mark-f

Old gasket:

 

[GreenPump]

A few things on head gaskets for the L series engines:

First of all, the correct way to fit a head gasket is to FIRST measure piston protrusion. This is done with the head and gasket removed. The measurement tells you how far the pistons stick up from the block, and allows you to pick the corresponding head gasket thickness. Types B, D and F are available on partsouq for my 3L engine, in order of ascending thickness. Your FSM will tell you how to measure piston protrusion and select a gasket.

Toyota 0411154094 being a full kit, I don't know which size they sent you. The backup you ordered is Type D.

Why is all this important? Well, if your truck was a type F gasket from the factory, and you go and install a type B or D, you have decreased the clearance between the pistons and bottom of head. Your pistons and valves end up kissing.

Many folks simply run the type F and don't measure piston protrusion- they get the thickest gasket and don't worry about it.

During my 3L rebuild I measured the old gasket, which will be compressed but in my case it was still thicker than a type D, so I knew to order a type F. You should start off by measuring the old gasket. Maybe someone can chime in and tell us what size is provided in toyota 0411154094 kit.

Additionally: did you re-use head bolts, replace them, or go to studs?

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

So your machine shop told you the old head was not cracked? I can see one immediately in your first picture of the head. So if the guy doing the machine work told you it was 'NOT' cracked...

 

[GreenPump]

I can see one immediately in your first picture of the head.

I was looking at that first picture too, a bit hard to tell, oily.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

I was looking at that first picture too, a bit hard to tell, oily.

I suppose there is a small chance that there is a linear oil build up in exactly the place and exactly the rugose/fractured form of the classic valve bridge crack... and I apologise if it is. But it almost certainly is a crack in my opinion.

There is to me also a more ambiguous potential crack between the exhaust valve and pre-combustion chamber in the first picture.

Heads need to be cleaned up before doing these checks though, so maybe it's fine.

Used head gasket thicknesses are read by the notch pattern:

Outboard notch on front edge towards the straight side of the gasket - B
Inboard notch on front edge towards the straight side of the gasket - D (as per the posted picture)
Notch on front edge towards the profiled side of the gasket - F

So I don't see gasket thickness being a potential cause, but indeed something to check as part of a proper job.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

So a few questions:

Did the vehicle overheat before the coolant/radiator change?

Have you checked/replaced the water pump?

Is the thermostat opening? Is the top radiator hose getting hot when the symptoms occur?

Were all the timing marks aligned on the crankshaft, injection pump and camshaft pulleys after the new head was put on?

 

[BigNJpn]

So a few questions:

Did the vehicle overheat before the coolant/radiator change?

Have you checked/replaced the water pump?

Is the thermostat opening? Is the top radiator hose getting hot when the symptoms occur?

Were all the timing marks aligned on the crankshaft, injection pump and camshaft pulleys after the new head was put on?

I appreciate your time once again.

There were no overheating issues before the coolant and radiator change, I was trying to get ahead of any overheating/head issues (that will teach me).

Water pump has been replaced. My mechanic is very capable so I assume timing marks were adhered to.

I'll have to check on top tube, but all of the steam/smoke is coming from below the thermostat.

 

[Miloslavich]

I did however go to the moshimoto 3-row aluminum radiator and 10-blade fan.

Awesome info about the Evans waterless.... How do you like the Mishimoto? I need to replace my leaking rad..