I like Red Line. It's just that where I live I can get the EOS easier.
Which oil are you using? (2 Viewers)
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I found cases of this at WalMart tonight. They had it in 1 gallon for about $13.50 and 2.5 gallon bottles for about $34.00. The 2.5 gallon bottles said,
"Mobil Delvac 1300 Super Meets or Exceeds the following industry and builder specifications:
API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, CF/SM, SL"
Mobil Canada | Heavy Duty Engine Oils | Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40
Walmart.com: Mobil Delvac 15W-40 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil, 1gal: Automotive
Is that what we're looking for? I couldn't find a spec stating the ZDDP levels.
"Mobil Delvac 1300 Super Meets or Exceeds the following industry and builder specifications:
API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, CF/SM, SL"
Mobil Canada | Heavy Duty Engine Oils | Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40
Walmart.com: Mobil Delvac 15W-40 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil, 1gal: Automotive
Is that what we're looking for? I couldn't find a spec stating the ZDDP levels.
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No - it's SM rated. You want SL only or earlier standard.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
As you know, the SM standard has nothing to do with it, once you are outside of the 5w-30 starburst standard.
Unfortunately, the info about zinc/phos content is hard to come by.
This is a problem, however, generally most 15w-40s will be fine and MOBIL1 15W-50 is fine based on what they publish.
I'm an oil hound. I have a pretty large stock of SL oils that I have found at various stores in my area. If you keep your eye open you can find older stock that is not yet the newer blends. I just recently found an unopened case of the 1 gallon jugs of older SL rated Rotella full synthetic 5w-40. I even managed to talk the clerk into a discount since the box looked so old and ratty.
The trick is just always glance around and look for older stock or differently colored bottles. I have found SL and previous rated oils at Tractor Suplly Company, Atwoods, Walmart, and various parts stores.
I have stocked up on old oil because between the 8 quarts that the 2F Landcruiser wants, and the 6 quarts that the 1949 Ford 8N wants, I manage to go through a fair bit of dead dinos.
The trick is just always glance around and look for older stock or differently colored bottles. I have found SL and previous rated oils at Tractor Suplly Company, Atwoods, Walmart, and various parts stores.
I have stocked up on old oil because between the 8 quarts that the 2F Landcruiser wants, and the 6 quarts that the 1949 Ford 8N wants, I manage to go through a fair bit of dead dinos.
This thread is sweet it has been around close to the time I got my 60! I have been running rotela in both my 60 and my 5.9 cummins RAM, no problems with either and I can just buy 6gal at a time and don't have to worry about it hanging around long
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Wait, so you're saying the metal content of SM or SN rated oils is variable, depending on viscosity? I hadn't heard that.
But doesn't the newest CJ4 rating for '07-newer diesel with exhaust aftertreatment (Catalyst, DPF, urea, etc), also require a serious reduction in metal in the oil?
I'm really cornfused now.
Is there is a published SN or CJ4 standard that specifies the maximum metal content of the oil?
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Wait, so you're saying the metal content of SM or SN rated oils is variable, depending on viscosity? I hadn't heard that.
But doesn't the newest CJ4 rating for '07-newer diesel with exhaust aftertreatment (Catalyst, DPF, urea, etc), also require a serious reduction in metal in the oil?
I'm really cornfused now.
Read this chart:
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf
You will see that there is huge variability in the zinc/phos content.
For the others, it's hard to come by the actual numbers.
Awesome find - thankyou!
Looks like M1/15W-50 would be a good choice, zinc and ph levels appear high enough (if I am remembering right) and application specifically references flat tappet engines. Gotta look up some pricing...
5 qt jugs at Walmart for $25. That is what I have been using.
For 25years Ihave been running my 1987 with Castrol 20W50 in hot weather and 10W30 during winter. If I change oil in Spring while it is still cold at night but warm during the day I have used Castrol 10W40. I did run it one winter with 20W50. Mornings would be single digit or low teens. It was hard starting so I put two 300 Watt magnetic heaters on the oil pan. That helped a bunch but I would not do that again.
I have used Castrol 20W50 over the past forty years in a Polaris 6X6, A Norton Commando, a Jaguar XJ, and many four cylinder cars all in warm to hot weather. It works for me and is a lot less expensive than the Rotella T-5 and T-6 I run in my Ford PSD.
I have used Castrol 20W50 over the past forty years in a Polaris 6X6, A Norton Commando, a Jaguar XJ, and many four cylinder cars all in warm to hot weather. It works for me and is a lot less expensive than the Rotella T-5 and T-6 I run in my Ford PSD.
I'm told that Valvoline 20/50 racing has fairly high levels of zddp.
STP has an additive that contains it.
STP has an additive that contains it.
ntsqd
technerd
For those with access to it the latest TDR magazine (issue #76) has a pretty informative article on CI vs. CJ oils. I've been eagerly awaiting the issue since I read that it would have this article. After reading it I'll be buying Rotella 15W40.
Please share with us what you learned.
ntsqd
technerd
To do that I'd just about have to copy the whole article, it's copyrighted material so that would be bad.
Essentially what they did was send oil samples to a lab like Blackstone, and have a retired lubrication industry expert interpret the results. Since TDR is a Cummins Turbo Diesel oriented publication they are concerned with more than just ZDP levels, they were interested in detergents and other factors that I think also apply to older flat tappet gas engines, though perhaps not as strongly.
Issue 54 (8/07) has their original oil test and it may be available online.
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Any real racing oil has loads of ZDDP. That's the point of a racing oil, to protect flat tappet engines running 100's of lbs of valve spring pressure at 7000RPM.
BUT, racing oils are designed to be run for a weekend, then drained. They are not designed to sit, protect on cold starts, hold dirt in suspension for months, etc.
So Jim, What are you running in 2Fs?
Wait, so you're saying the metal content of SM or SN rated oils is variable, depending on viscosity? I hadn't heard that.
But doesn't the newest CJ4 rating for '07-newer diesel with exhaust aftertreatment (Catalyst, DPF, urea, etc), also require a serious reduction in metal in the oil?
I'm really cornfused now.
The viscosity-specific application Cruiserdrew is referring to was valid until Oct 2011. Since then, when API matched or merged with the ILSAC GF-5 standard, and possibly even the Japanese standard, the API star and donut "Performance Standard" rating has been accepted for the entire range of engine oil viscosity grades, for both Service and Commercial categories. The volumes of VOAs posted in the geek oil sites (yes, I'm there often
) bears this out. Before, the API standard was limited to the most commonly used viscosities. Anything with 50 wt was not included. So, an oil like the M1 15w50 could have a SM/SN rating and still have higher Zinc levels than the standard allows because it met the other "performance criteria" of an SN/SM oil. Remember, too, these are all "voluntary" guidelines adopted by the mfg, verified by no one but the geeks doing the VOAs.
I'm stating the above figures from what I remember, because the API website used to have a whole publication on this, but it has since been removed, so I'm guessing there's more updated shizzle to come.
And FWIW, the SL and SJ standards are still not obsolete, they're still listed as "current" by the API, it's just they've dropped to such a small share of the market, almost exclusively commercial, so they are, as we're finding, very difficult to find.
Obama's in town, today... Should I ask him what he runs in his Cruiser ?
guerasfj60
SILVER Star
OK, so what would be the ideal oil for these 2F engines ? I may just have a small batch made for me and those who would want such a thing. If it was to work with my air-cooled motor as well, this would happen soon.
