Actually on a toyota diff you need to remove the carrier regardless of the type of locker. This means resetting backlash and carrier preload. None of them will require a full setup unless you remove the pinion as well. That said the install will be pretty similar on a Lock Right, Detroit, Spool, etc. And more on an air actuated unit as you'll have to drill / tap, run lines, wire etc.
TRACTION:
-Limited Slip Differential (aka LSD, “Positraction”) uses clutches, cones, or helical gears and pre-load to prevent wheel spin. Increases traction significantly, smooth on the street, reasonably priced, but Never 100% locked. Examples TrueTrac, Eaton Posi, Auburn LSD, TracLok, Torsen
Off-Road 3 of 5 On-Road 5 of 5 Average price $300-600
For LJ78 we offer Truetrac or Auburn LSD. I prefer the Auburn as it has more preload, and is more effective.
-Auto / Mechanical Locker – Uses mechanical teeth, cams, springs, to ensure 100% lockup when throttle is applied. Disengages around corners. Increases traction significantly, reasonably priced. Clunks & Pops on corners. Examples: Detroit Locker, Lock Right, Powertrax.
Off-Road 5 of 5 On-Road 2 of 5 Average price $300-700
For LJ78 Lock Right or Detroit Locker are available and in stock.
-Selectable Locker – Can be selected from open to 100% locked with flip of switch, Actuated via Compressed Air or Electro-magnet. Best of both worlds. More Costly, some also require an additional compressor system. More complex. Examples: ARB Air Locker, TJM Pro Locker, Eaton E-Locker, Auburn ECTED, OX Locker, Off-Road 5 of 5 On-Road 5of 5 Average price $750-1075
For LJ78 ARB Air Locker or TJM Pro Locker are avaible and in stock. Factory Toyota Electric lockers can be retro-fitted as well but are not worth the work IMHO, though they are nice if the truck came with it, or it was free.
-There are a few other knock-off lockers as well, which we do not offer. Some may be selectable type or mechanical type. Typically the savings is minimal.
Hi all.
I don't quite agree with the comments on the truetrac. I had 2 in my KZJ73 and they were absolutely great, i used it in deep muddy trails, african sand, snow, all kind of tracks and couple of off road event in France. I they were available for my HDJ80, i would have replace my factory locks with truetracs or equivalent. Truetracs are not preloaded, so you need to apply a touch of bakes if you have a wheel lifted off (if it still barely touch the ground the truetrac work without your need on the brakes). They had a big advantage over other manual or auto locker in off road event as they keep the full grip but do not prevent you to turn even on side slope corners, that makes a huge difference.
In sand or mud, same thing, they split the right amount of torque between the 2 wheels of an axle and let you free to turn, an auto "unlocker" transmit the torque to 1 wheel at the time when cornering, if it stays locked on very loose surface, you just go straight.
It is even more obvious on one of the trickiest surface, the Chotts in north africa, "dried" old salty lakes...depending of the seasons the crust can be very thing and the mud has the consistency of chewing gum. You can't shovel it.
When the first crust is going under the car weight, open diff let you spin in diagonal and you are stucked, Manual lockers, for thoses who have, get activated then you dig with all 4 wheels and can only go straight, not the best option generally there and you get stucked.
Autolocker get in action them self so you don't loose the momentum, but the ground has so much resistance since you are sunk to the diff, the locker stays locked, if you happen to be able to turn a bit, all torque being on one wheel you just start digging and you are done.
Electronic traction control work not too bad with a minum speed but in general kill the engine power trying to get what it can to the ground and the slower you get, the worst the shock loads are on the shafts and tires, they break the surface and you are stucked.
Geared LSD "torsens" split the torque smoothly, crawl through and let you choose your best line without digging much.
There is always a limit, but Torsen push it so much further than other systems in general to my point of view. I can post some pics of this conditions with different cars
truetrac are best on AT gearbox, or manual gearbox with a torquy engine so you can play with the brakes in really extreme condition's.
A few brands have preloaded torsens that do not require the driver to use the brakes in extreme situation, theses are so rare and expensive that we have no chance to find any for our toys.
On a 78, there are easy suspension improvement that can be done for very cheap and very much help in comfort and capability on rough tracks, i can give you a recipe if you need
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without longfields or simular cromoly birf's and axles
