Which locker should i give my LJ78

[crushers]

no, but it does break birfs more often.
i would install one in the rear, give it a try ... if you STILL want one in the front then learn to pick your trail better...

 

[monke south]

That's good advice I will just install the back. Just out of curiosity why would lokka recommend doing the front first? "If you only can do one, do the front" is the front end on the LJ78 extra week?

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUDp

 

[sadam_husain]

Do you have a winch?
If not, I would spend the money on that first.

Lockers get you in to trouble winches get you out.

I'm a bit late in posting but thats a really good piece of advice right there, diff locks are good but they arent the be all and end all they can get you into just as much if not more trouble than they get you out of especially in soft terain where you dig yourself down even deeper

you've also got the birf/cv problem with increased risk of failure with a front diff lock and personaly I've always found front diff locks are without longfields or simular cromoly birf's and axles

 

[monke south]

That's all I need is a broken birf or some other trouble with the front end when I'm 5 or 6 hrs from the house and a few weeks from getting parts that I order!

I think I've got the winch mount figured out. I made a mock up. It will weld up to the bracket I made to attach the bulbar, as well as bolt to the chassis.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUDp

 

[monke south]

Here is a picture of a mock up that my son and I came up with. We are at the workshop explaining what we want. Should be done soon! I hope.

[/IMG]

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUDp

 

[cicak]

That's all I need is a broken birf or some other trouble with the front end when I'm 5 or 6 hrs from the house and a few weeks from getting parts that I order!

I think I've got the winch mount figured out. I made a mock up. It will weld up to the bracket I made to attach the bulbar, as well as bolt to the chassis.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUDp

Where you are I would recommend a WARN 8274 and nothing else.

NExt a REAR locker only if you need to have a front locker try using the foot on the brake first. Front CVs etc are as WEAK as WEASEL piss and then some 32" SIMEX XT's.

WInch mount looks fine. The WINCH needs batteries 100AMP ones

 

[Letsgomoreplaces]

Actually on a toyota diff you need to remove the carrier regardless of the type of locker. This means resetting backlash and carrier preload. None of them will require a full setup unless you remove the pinion as well. That said the install will be pretty similar on a Lock Right, Detroit, Spool, etc. And more on an air actuated unit as you'll have to drill / tap, run lines, wire etc.

TRACTION:
-Limited Slip Differential (aka LSD, “Positraction”) uses clutches, cones, or helical gears and pre-load to prevent wheel spin. Increases traction significantly, smooth on the street, reasonably priced, but Never 100% locked. Examples TrueTrac, Eaton Posi, Auburn LSD, TracLok, Torsen
Off-Road 3 of 5 On-Road 5 of 5 Average price $300-600
For LJ78 we offer Truetrac or Auburn LSD. I prefer the Auburn as it has more preload, and is more effective.


-Auto / Mechanical Locker – Uses mechanical teeth, cams, springs, to ensure 100% lockup when throttle is applied. Disengages around corners. Increases traction significantly, reasonably priced. Clunks & Pops on corners. Examples: Detroit Locker, Lock Right, Powertrax.
Off-Road 5 of 5 On-Road 2 of 5 Average price $300-700
For LJ78 Lock Right or Detroit Locker are available and in stock.


-Selectable Locker – Can be selected from open to 100% locked with flip of switch, Actuated via Compressed Air or Electro-magnet. Best of both worlds. More Costly, some also require an additional compressor system. More complex. Examples: ARB Air Locker, TJM Pro Locker, Eaton E-Locker, Auburn ECTED, OX Locker, Off-Road 5 of 5 On-Road 5of 5 Average price $750-1075
For LJ78 ARB Air Locker or TJM Pro Locker are avaible and in stock. Factory Toyota Electric lockers can be retro-fitted as well but are not worth the work IMHO, though they are nice if the truck came with it, or it was free.


-There are a few other knock-off lockers as well, which we do not offer. Some may be selectable type or mechanical type. Typically the savings is minimal.

easy lock, lockrite, Ozlock (all the same)
easy to install
down load the shop manual for your truck
review
examine your truck
familurize
and when you feel comfortable then do it.

ARB also means removing the gears and reinstalling properly. for most, this is not an easy job to do.
auto, you just pull the guts and replace. simple job.

 

[crushers]

expand ...
how does installing a lunch box locker require resetting the backlash and carrier preload?
explain:
an ARB is better than Factory electric?

Actually on a toyota diff you need to remove the carrier regardless of the type of locker. This means resetting backlash and carrier preload.

For LJ78 ARB Air Locker or TJM Pro Locker are avaible and in stock. Factory Toyota Electric lockers can be retro-fitted as well but are not worth the work IMHO, though they are nice if the truck came with it, or it was free.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

expand ...
how does installing a lunch box locker require resetting the backlash and carrier preload?
explain:
an ARB is better than Factory electric?

It's not a C-clip differential, therefore there is no 'window' in the carrier to install the parts...

LSDs are just expensive open differentials. Get a locker, and I'd suggest saving up and getting a selectable.

ARB - stronger design, faster to engage and disengage, no modifications to the axle housing required.


~John

 

[Letsgomoreplaces]

It's not a C-clip differential, therefore there is no 'window' in the carrier to install the parts...

LSDs are just expensive open differentials. Get a locker, and I'd suggest saving up and getting a selectable.

ARB - stronger design, faster to engage and disengage, no modifications to the axle housing required.

~John

Thanks john. Got to it before me!

 

[gotoy]

ARB, Factory are the best lockers to go for.

No idea what above meaning of 'selectable' locker is. Conclude just the phraseology for ARB style on/off type.

 

[monke south]

Sooooo, both styles of lockers will require backlash and preload to be reset? Is this correct? My only reason for geting an auto locker is because of the ease of install. The air locker install info that I have read talks about special tools and setup, the drilling and taping I can do its just the backlash,preload and special tools that makes me nervous.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUDp

 

[crushers]

http://www.theoverlandescape.com/2011/04/24/toyota-8-lock-right-install/
wow, learned something new today.

limited slip, even with the mod i used to do, is a waste.
i will still take factory elec over those ARB units. personal choice. i have seen too many guys having issue with the ARB.

 

[ForealBoreal]

not to mention for the little bit of fabrication work with a zip cut and a bit of wiring you can retro fit elocker thirds to one.
I see every so often a pair of elocking thirds out of an 80 series for example come up for 1000 bucks.
Sure you have to get new short side axles but in the end I think it will be cheaper in comparison to fitting arb's

 

[monke south]

Thanks crushers, that was a great read. I'm still looking for one of those for a arb unit. So if anyone finds instructions on how to install an arb locker in a Toyota 8in I would love to see it.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUDp

 

[pradocruzer]

This better applies to your third member in the rear of your Prado. http://gearinstalls.com/v6lockrite.htm
Next steep is to tighten the carrier bearing preload.http://gearinstalls.com/freshen.htm

take care

 

[gearinstalls.com]

Thanks crushers, that was a great read. I'm still looking for one of those for a arb unit. So if anyone finds instructions on how to install an arb locker in a Toyota 8in I would love to see it.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUDp

This should help.....I think this folder will open for you....this folder has 20 jpeg snapshots as taken by my Canon SX150
http://gearinstalls.com/RD132_8inch50mm/

By the way, because of the remote place you live, I like the idea of simple and dependable.....my thought is a rear Detroit or a lunchbox locker.
Also, airing down your tires to about 10~12 psi can make a world a difference crossing the streams....but that means you need a source of air to air up again and here is where I would put my money if I already didn't have a VIAIR 400

Smittybilt 5.65 cfm 12v air compressor Part Number: s/b2781.....
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Winches-...18&t_s=190&t_pt=100437&t_pl=5822&t_pn=S/B2781


My via ran me $168 and has the typical 2.54 cfm output....
http://www.viaircorp.com/OnRoad/400C.html

Ken

 

[monke south]

Thanks guys that is very helpful I appreciate you posting these links.

I think that the auto locker is going to work great for me. know that I have the winch as well. If I can get through the obstacles at a nice slow speed it will really save the cruiser. If all else fails there is always 30 or 40 people to pull me out.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUDp

 

[monke south]

So what maintenance items should I do when I put in the rear Lokka? Is there some things I should do as I got the back end all apart? I will be heading to town next week so I will need to research out the parts to make sure that I have the part number of a rig that Toyota sells here. What is your guys input?
Chad Wells

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUDp

 

[syche]

Actually on a toyota diff you need to remove the carrier regardless of the type of locker. This means resetting backlash and carrier preload. None of them will require a full setup unless you remove the pinion as well. That said the install will be pretty similar on a Lock Right, Detroit, Spool, etc. And more on an air actuated unit as you'll have to drill / tap, run lines, wire etc.

TRACTION:
-Limited Slip Differential (aka LSD, “Positraction”) uses clutches, cones, or helical gears and pre-load to prevent wheel spin. Increases traction significantly, smooth on the street, reasonably priced, but Never 100% locked. Examples TrueTrac, Eaton Posi, Auburn LSD, TracLok, Torsen
Off-Road 3 of 5 On-Road 5 of 5 Average price $300-600
For LJ78 we offer Truetrac or Auburn LSD. I prefer the Auburn as it has more preload, and is more effective.


-Auto / Mechanical Locker – Uses mechanical teeth, cams, springs, to ensure 100% lockup when throttle is applied. Disengages around corners. Increases traction significantly, reasonably priced. Clunks & Pops on corners. Examples: Detroit Locker, Lock Right, Powertrax.
Off-Road 5 of 5 On-Road 2 of 5 Average price $300-700
For LJ78 Lock Right or Detroit Locker are available and in stock.


-Selectable Locker – Can be selected from open to 100% locked with flip of switch, Actuated via Compressed Air or Electro-magnet. Best of both worlds. More Costly, some also require an additional compressor system. More complex. Examples: ARB Air Locker, TJM Pro Locker, Eaton E-Locker, Auburn ECTED, OX Locker, Off-Road 5 of 5 On-Road 5of 5 Average price $750-1075
For LJ78 ARB Air Locker or TJM Pro Locker are avaible and in stock. Factory Toyota Electric lockers can be retro-fitted as well but are not worth the work IMHO, though they are nice if the truck came with it, or it was free.


-There are a few other knock-off lockers as well, which we do not offer. Some may be selectable type or mechanical type. Typically the savings is minimal.

Hi all.

I don't quite agree with the comments on the truetrac. I had 2 in my KZJ73 and they were absolutely great, i used it in deep muddy trails, african sand, snow, all kind of tracks and couple of off road event in France. I they were available for my HDJ80, i would have replace my factory locks with truetracs or equivalent. Truetracs are not preloaded, so you need to apply a touch of bakes if you have a wheel lifted off (if it still barely touch the ground the truetrac work without your need on the brakes). They had a big advantage over other manual or auto locker in off road event as they keep the full grip but do not prevent you to turn even on side slope corners, that makes a huge difference.
In sand or mud, same thing, they split the right amount of torque between the 2 wheels of an axle and let you free to turn, an auto "unlocker" transmit the torque to 1 wheel at the time when cornering, if it stays locked on very loose surface, you just go straight.

It is even more obvious on one of the trickiest surface, the Chotts in north africa, "dried" old salty lakes...depending of the seasons the crust can be very thing and the mud has the consistency of chewing gum. You can't shovel it.
When the first crust is going under the car weight, open diff let you spin in diagonal and you are stucked, Manual lockers, for thoses who have, get activated then you dig with all 4 wheels and can only go straight, not the best option generally there and you get stucked.
Autolocker get in action them self so you don't loose the momentum, but the ground has so much resistance since you are sunk to the diff, the locker stays locked, if you happen to be able to turn a bit, all torque being on one wheel you just start digging and you are done.
Electronic traction control work not too bad with a minum speed but in general kill the engine power trying to get what it can to the ground and the slower you get, the worst the shock loads are on the shafts and tires, they break the surface and you are stucked.
Geared LSD "torsens" split the torque smoothly, crawl through and let you choose your best line without digging much.
There is always a limit, but Torsen push it so much further than other systems in general to my point of view. I can post some pics of this conditions with different cars

truetrac are best on AT gearbox, or manual gearbox with a torquy engine so you can play with the brakes in really extreme condition's.

A few brands have preloaded torsens that do not require the driver to use the brakes in extreme situation, theses are so rare and expensive that we have no chance to find any for our toys.

On a 78, there are easy suspension improvement that can be done for very cheap and very much help in comfort and capability on rough tracks, i can give you a recipe if you need.