Where to start and how much 4Runner (1 Viewer)

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Feb 15, 2014
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SD
So i figured out through extensive research that I am looking to go with a 4Runner. between 1984-1990 i would prefer the 1st gen. because they have the detachable top. I know that 85 is the best because it the rare with stock straight axel and Ignition. engine should be the 22r. right? like i do not want to do this wrong.. but i was wondering what is a "fair" price? for a first gen?
 
To be honest with you, most toyotas, especially 1st and 2nd gen, usually sell for as much as someone will pay for them. Around where I live, 1st and 2nd gens, with minimal rust and under 250k, go for upwards of 2 grand. But sometimes you will find someone selling a toyota for a steel of a deal, because they do not know what they have. And the 1985 4 runners and pickups, are the best to get, in most peoples opinion, including mine, because they came stock with solid front axle, and it was also the first year with fuel injection. Good luck with your search. Hope everything turns out good for you. Have patience..
 
First Gen 4Runners rule. I prefer the 22RE over the 3VZE. I have owned both and the 22RE is cheaper and easier to work on. Of course the '85 is a unicorn and priced accordingly, but if you hunt, I bought mine, running and driving, for $1000. It did need work, but they all do. Previous owner didn't know why its special, not too bright. If you plan to run a fair amount of lift and crossover steering, the IFS trucks are not a bad place to start, as they already have the correct steering box mounted to the frame and you would probably want to move the axle forward anyway. All of the first gen trucks are pretty good, but I would stay away from automatic transmissions and carburetors. If they were fun, people wouldn't be swapping them out all the time. You should be able to find a good one for less than $3000.
 
Bought my 86 runner 100% stock complete for $590 and it came with new spare front fenders and a box of random parts. 275k with a seized idler pulley bearing and leaking clutch master cylinder.
Water pump failed a thousand miles into owning it.

I have a little under 3k into it total and it does most everything i want it to do.

All depends on how nice you want the paint and body.

I got a hell of a deal though. Have cash in hand and be the first to grab the title.

Add $700-1400 for a soft top.
 
I would go with an IFS 4Runner. I paid $250 for mine with a blown motor and slowly built it up over the last few years. It does extremely well and tackles whatever I have thrown at it. I typically wheel with guys that have solid axles and 36-39" tall tires. Keeps up very well, although it does lift a tire or two due to the lack of front flex. All it has is a 1" body lift and a good bit of trimming to clear 37's, along with dual ultimates and some other stuff :)

I have around $4k into the truck as it sits and all told under $6k with the parts I have in my shop to SAS the front with a fully built FJ60/62 axle with a 3 link suspension on coilovers.

Here is my build thread to give you some ideas.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=209893&referrerid=2289

If you have any questions feel free to ask in the build thread.
 
I would go with an IFS 4Runner. I paid $250 for mine with a blown motor and slowly built it up over the last few years. It does extremely well and tackles whatever I have thrown at it. I typically wheel with guys that have solid axles and 36-39" tall tires. Keeps up very well, although it does lift a tire or two due to the lack of front flex. All it has is a 1" body lift and a good bit of trimming to clear 37's, along with dual ultimates and some other stuff :)

I have around $4k into the truck as it sits and all told under $6k with the parts I have in my shop to SAS the front with a fully built FJ60/62 axle with a 3 link suspension on coilovers.

Here is my build thread to give you some ideas.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=209893&referrerid=2289

If you have any questions feel free to ask in the build thread.

So why do you recommend a ifs truck when u are about to have to do a SAS??? I'm curious Is all.. I too have a ifs truck that I am about to do the SAS on. Now it does get me all the places the big boys go just like u said.. But why not buy a solid axel truck and skip the whole SAS and just add gears and lockers and so on?!?!?

If u just want a newer model truck or a light to medium wheeler/mall crawler cool but if all u want is a sho nuff trail rig y not get the SA trucks or LC's?

Edit: I am not trying to be a ass. I'm just curious is all.

Sent from my iPhone 60' up in a lift
 
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So why do you recommend a ifs truck when u are about to have to do a SAS??? I'm curious Is all.. I too have a ifs truck that I am about to do the SAS on. Now it does get me all the places the big boys go just like u said.. But why not buy a solid axel truck and skip the whole SAS and just add gears and lockers and so on?!?!?

If u just want a newer model truck or a light to medium wheeler/mall crawler cool but if all u want is a sho nuff trail rig y not get the SA trucks or LC's?

Sent from my iPhone 60' up in a lift

Truthfully I should just leave it alone and keep wheeling, but I like to build things and a SAS is the next logical step. I don't have to do it, but want to. I will likely not swap until after this year since I can't find the time to do it at the moment. I figured skip over the leaf spring swap since I have less in parts to do the 3 link setup than buying a kit. A stock solid axle truck is also not going to perform like a swapped IFS truck, you will need a new front spring hanger, aftermarket springs or RUF, IFS steering box, and hysteer.

With the IFS models you get more bang for your buck in my opinion, typically with updated interior (if you care, I don't), the correct steering box, fuel injection, potentially lower miles, little to no rust, AC, etc. I think the IFS is also stronger than the stock solid axle and steering setup with the j arm. I wheel with a guy running a stock front axle other than hysteer and taller springs, he has broken a number of axle shafts, whereas I have broken nothing in my front end and would say I am much more throttle happy. Last time out on a hill climb it started to rain and the rocks got slick, the IFS wouldnt give me the flex I needed to crawl it and ended up doing a 3rd gear dump in double low and bounced my way up with two tires 2' off the ground several times. Not a problem. Buddy tried it and blew his ring and pinion. We have all been surprised by what the stock IFS has taken abuse wise.

In my area, I have seen a handful of 85 and older trucks, all but one were rust buckets and not worthy of building. There are IFS trucks all over and you can pick and choose. My truck only had two small spot of rust on the body and one on the frame, which were easy fixes.
 
Truthfully I should just leave it alone and keep wheeling, but I like to build things and a SAS is the next logical step. I don't have to do it, but want to. I will likely not swap until after this year since I can't find the time to do it at the moment. I figured skip over the leaf spring swap since I have less in parts to do the 3 link setup than buying a kit. A stock solid axle truck is also not going to perform like a swapped IFS truck, you will need a new front spring hanger, aftermarket springs or RUF, IFS steering box, and hysteer.

With the IFS models you get more bang for your buck in my opinion, typically with updated interior (if you care, I don't), the correct steering box, fuel injection, potentially lower miles, little to no rust, AC, etc. I think the IFS is also stronger than the stock solid axle and steering setup with the j arm. I wheel with a guy running a stock front axle other than hysteer and taller springs, he has broken a number of axle shafts, whereas I have broken nothing in my front end and would say I am much more throttle happy. Last time out on a hill climb it started to rain and the rocks got slick, the IFS wouldnt give me the flex I needed to crawl it and ended up doing a 3rd gear dump in double low and bounced my way up with two tires 2' off the ground several times. Not a problem. Buddy tried it and blew his ring and pinion. We have all been surprised by what the stock IFS has taken abuse wise.

In my area, I have seen a handful of 85 and older trucks, all but one were rust buckets and not worthy of building. There are IFS trucks all over and you can pick and choose. My truck only had two small spot of rust on the body and one on the frame, which were easy fixes.

I agree with everything u said except the ifs being stronger than a solid axel.. The ifs has a 7.5" ring gear where the solid axel is a 8". The cv axels are the biggest weak point IMO. A 8" axel stock can be locked and ran that way with sum broken birfs here and there but a ifs locked well... U would go thru cv's on almost every trip out lmao... Ifs is strong trust me I have abused mine over and over again and it keeps getting me where I need to be. But it lacks articulation and u cant throw a locker in it and trust it will get u the places u wanna go.

Sent from my iPhone 60' up in a lift
 
Not to mention the solid axle 4 runner only existed for 2 years, the ifs trucks were around for double that. Potentially more to choose from and could be cheaper.
I just picked up an 86 last night. It's my first ifs Toyota, looking forward to playing with it.

True that. Good point!

Cool hope u enjoy it !

Sent from my iPhone 60' up in a lift
 
If you run stock birfs locked on anything bigger than 31's you'll be changing birfs more than a locked ifs truck will have to change half shafts. You might get away w/ 33's locked but you'll be pushing it. If you plan to run 35's on stock birfs don't even lock the axle till you get longs.
 
If you run stock birfs locked on anything bigger than 31's you'll be changing birfs more than a locked ifs truck will have to change half shafts. You might get away w/ 33's locked but you'll be pushing it. If you plan to run 35's on stock birfs don't even lock the axle till you get longs.

Fully agree. I think the only reason my IFS has survived with 37's is that I don't run a front locker and have no lift, which keeps the CVs happy. Swapping CVs is also much easier than a birf, last CV I did was around 15 minutes with the tires still on. Last birfield/inner axle we swapped out took close to an hour just to do the swap, not counting getting the guy to a flat area to work.
 
IFS may need a SAS but the stock solid axle model needs high steer and wider rear axle from an IFS and longer springs and repositioned spring hangers from a iFS truck (if not chevy springs). Nearly as much stuff to swap out either way. Besides, imagine swapping the 3.slow motor for a 3.4 liter supercharged motor. A lot to be said for the later models. all that stuff aside, I managed to drag my IFS truck on 33"s over the Rubicon a few times with no major mods. I would get the newer one if possible.
 
I agree with almost all of that. I just can't see a cv stronger than a birf. Maybe because I have went thru a few cv's with no locker. But it's prolly bc of a 4" lift and cheap cv's and a heavy right foot.. I have 2 broke cv's right now. I will say the factory cv's did last longer than the advanced axels do but I get the lifetime warranty lol. Ill buy yota cv's and see what happens!

I have a 98 tacoma that gonna get the SAS soon and I also have a 85 p/u that I gotta build from scratch.. With that said I can see how it's the same amount of work either way. So I understand where y'all are coming from. I guess I wasn't thinking of all that stuff b4 I posted/ opened big mouth. Good stuff!

Sent from my iPhone 60' up in a lift
 

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