- Thread starter
- #21
I was thinking grade 8 would be fine. You don’t think so?
Where to get body mount bushing kit (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter JonChimpo
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Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Why wouldn't you buy OEM bolts? There are only 12 of them, and unless you're going to lift the body off the frame and remove the radiator, you can't get to the front two anyway.
This is the only body to frame connection, it's not like you're bolting trim on somewhere.
This is the only body to frame connection, it's not like you're bolting trim on somewhere.
- Thread starter
- #23
Fair, another mudder gave me a detailed parts list, and where to buy all OEM. I’m going to go that route. I’ll buy OEM when I can, but many parts appear to be NLA.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
"appear" because the dealer websites don't list them, or because aftermarket websites don't?
- Thread starter
- #25
Appear meaning I couldn’t find them on PartSouq, not on Yoshi parts. also meaning performing many searches I could find any online retail that offered full kits.
I thought I could ask a a lot of 80’s series Land Cruiser subject matter experts if they knew of anything, because I’m relatively a newb on this platform.
I did get quite a bit of help.
My next question will be does anyone know of a good YouTube, or write of of the removal/reinstallation of said body mounts?
Thank you,
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
First, if you haven't already done so, download a copy of the Toyota service manual for your year model from the Resources forum, 80 series section. Almost every question you could ask is answered there, in some form.
Having said that, unfortunately for your current project, there is nothing. This makes some sense, if you think about it, because this is typically body shop work, and those guys know how to take a body apart.
The service manuals were written primarily for dealership service technicians. If Toyota considered a task, or job, obvious to someone who had been trained to work on Toyotas specifically, or had above average general mechanical skill and knowledge, the specific steps for a given problem may be left out of the manual. The only exception to this is troubleshooting, which is covered in detail, for every sytem in the truck.
So, you are left with looking and assessing on your own. Fortunately, it's not too bad. The bolt heads are inside the body; there are two nuts on each bolt. One sets the bushing preload and the outer one is a locking nut. You'll need to remove the plastic door sill trim and lift up the carpet to get to the plastic plugs that cover the bolt heads. The plastic step, used for reaching the third row seats, also has to be removed.
Start by looking under the frame and follow the bolt to where you'd think it would be under the carpet; you'll find them pretty easily. The corners are the exceptions to this, and they're obvious when you look at them.
Once you uncover the bolt heads, you can remove the nuts. They are generally in good shape, except for the corners, which are more exposed than the ones in the middle.
Once you have the bolts out, you need to lift the body to remove the old bushings and install the new ones. It's best to work on one side and then move to the other, once you've replaced everything on that first side.
The only trick, if there is one, is how to lift the body. If you have an engine hoist, use the seatbelt anchors. You only need to lift about an inch. Remember, if you're not replacing the corner bushings, don't lift more than two inches. The rear corners are a PITA, because they're usually rusted in, and the front corners are under the radiator frame. I left all four of them in place when I replaced my body bushings and the middle bushings still made a huge difference.
If you don't have a hoist, you have to lift from under the body. The easiest way to do this is to remove the side steps (running boards) from their brackets and push on the bracket, as close to the body as you can. Whatever you do, don't push on the extreme end; you'll damage the body.
Resist the temptation to push directly on the body; you'll bend it. You can safely push on anything that's bolted to the body, it's reinforced there.
Finally, there is, again unfortunately, no torque spec for the body bushing bolts. If you think about it, this makes sense, because you will never push against anything that will stop deflecting - you're pushing on a rubber bushing. That, and body shop guys don't use torque wrenches. Ever.
IMO, it's sufficient to get 1/16" deflection in the bushing and put the locking nut on snugly.
HTH
Having said that, unfortunately for your current project, there is nothing. This makes some sense, if you think about it, because this is typically body shop work, and those guys know how to take a body apart.
The service manuals were written primarily for dealership service technicians. If Toyota considered a task, or job, obvious to someone who had been trained to work on Toyotas specifically, or had above average general mechanical skill and knowledge, the specific steps for a given problem may be left out of the manual. The only exception to this is troubleshooting, which is covered in detail, for every sytem in the truck.
So, you are left with looking and assessing on your own. Fortunately, it's not too bad. The bolt heads are inside the body; there are two nuts on each bolt. One sets the bushing preload and the outer one is a locking nut. You'll need to remove the plastic door sill trim and lift up the carpet to get to the plastic plugs that cover the bolt heads. The plastic step, used for reaching the third row seats, also has to be removed.
Start by looking under the frame and follow the bolt to where you'd think it would be under the carpet; you'll find them pretty easily. The corners are the exceptions to this, and they're obvious when you look at them.
Once you uncover the bolt heads, you can remove the nuts. They are generally in good shape, except for the corners, which are more exposed than the ones in the middle.
Once you have the bolts out, you need to lift the body to remove the old bushings and install the new ones. It's best to work on one side and then move to the other, once you've replaced everything on that first side.
The only trick, if there is one, is how to lift the body. If you have an engine hoist, use the seatbelt anchors. You only need to lift about an inch. Remember, if you're not replacing the corner bushings, don't lift more than two inches. The rear corners are a PITA, because they're usually rusted in, and the front corners are under the radiator frame. I left all four of them in place when I replaced my body bushings and the middle bushings still made a huge difference.
If you don't have a hoist, you have to lift from under the body. The easiest way to do this is to remove the side steps (running boards) from their brackets and push on the bracket, as close to the body as you can. Whatever you do, don't push on the extreme end; you'll damage the body.
Resist the temptation to push directly on the body; you'll bend it. You can safely push on anything that's bolted to the body, it's reinforced there.
Finally, there is, again unfortunately, no torque spec for the body bushing bolts. If you think about it, this makes sense, because you will never push against anything that will stop deflecting - you're pushing on a rubber bushing. That, and body shop guys don't use torque wrenches. Ever.
IMO, it's sufficient to get 1/16" deflection in the bushing and put the locking nut on snugly.
HTH
- Thread starter
- #27
Hell yeah man, sounds like it’s going to be a total PITA. Thank you for the write up. I’m kinda looking forward to it. There’s virtually nothing on the internet that I have found for the 80. I wish I would have done this while my engine and everything associated was out. Also, now that I’m thinking, I’m not 100% certain I cut out around the bolt plugs when I dynamatt the entire floor… ha well, I’ll be finding out.
I appreciate all the help, only thing that would make it easier is to have a LC guy close by that likes pizza, booze, and contorting in messed up positions in order to free bolts.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Check out OTRAMM's video series for Land Cruisers. They're very good.
Good quality grade 8 would be fine and is what I used. Is one of the few areas that OEM doesn’t really add anything.
You also can get the two front ones out without removing the radiator. I did whole lot in a day and I am not skilled. Is a one banana job, just take time.
The part that sucks with non-OEM hardware is the non JIS size of the hex.
These bolts are also used in shear so unless you find non-fully threaded hardware that is not good also. From an engineering/technical point of view imop.
If I lived somewhere where there was a business that replaces hardware I would also remove the bolts and get them replated if they were rust free.
That also depends on the cost of new vs re-plating also.
But, I’m OCD
These bolts are also used in shear so unless you find non-fully threaded hardware that is not good also. From an engineering/technical point of view imop.
If I lived somewhere where there was a business that replaces hardware I would also remove the bolts and get them replated if they were rust free.
That also depends on the cost of new vs re-plating also.
But, I’m OCD
Do you mind sharing the OEM source? On PartSouq for my '97 80, OEM appears to still be available for all except for the front 2.
- Thread starter
- #32
Once I get a chance to take a look I’ll send you a message.
Did you find @baldilocks build thread? Posts 627 and 628.
forum.ih8mud.com
Builds - Reconstruction after rollover - building The Champ 2.
Today has been all about one wheel and one tire so far…. I mounted a new tire on one of the new Trail Ready beadlocks I purchased a few months ago but it wouldn’t air up. I bought these RAD valve stems separately but also from Trail Ready, who by the way, is located in Prineville, OR. The...
forum.ih8mud.com
I will PM a photo of the parts list to anyone who would benefit from it.Did you find @baldilocks build thread? Posts 627 and 628.
Builds - Reconstruction after rollover - building The Champ 2.
Today has been all about one wheel and one tire so far…. I mounted a new tire on one of the new Trail Ready beadlocks I purchased a few months ago but it wouldn’t air up. I bought these RAD valve stems separately but also from Trail Ready, who by the way, is located in Prineville, OR. The...
The OEM parts are on the spendy side but that’s bc they last. Don’t bother with Fedest. I messaged PartsOuq about Fedest brand, which they did offer at that time, and they told me they would only recommend them as a temporary solution. (Chinesium)
- Thread starter
- #35
I did, quickly. I’ve been super busy at work. I Just did 22hr work shift. Wow, I’m far too old to do those anymore… I still need to look at that list. I’m looking forward to it though!
- Thread starter
- #36
I did get new tires the other day that definitely helped the ride.
- Thread starter
- #37
Just placed my order. Everything on Baldilocks list was available through PartSouq.
22 hrs!
Jebus, what you do?
- Thread starter
- #39
I’m in construction management. We had a client’s water line break in the middle of a planned shut down. It was a pretty brutal day after my regular 8hrs. The government loves my paychecks.
I’ve done them crazy shifts before in my profession, an aircraft mechanic, when I was younger.
No way I would do it now!
Another thing I’ve come to learn is OT is not worth it, taxes kill you. I made a deal at a couple of employers to do straight time after 8 hrs but also paid time off in place of the extra pay. It was a win win for each of us!
