Where to get 75-78 Accelerator / throttle cable?? Searched with no luck so frustrating..

[REDDER1]

All
My accelerator Cable snapped...I’ve searched and searched Mud and interweb...zero luck. Most posts are about Weber carbs which I don’t have

I have a 78FJ40 with a 75 2F.
Stock carb..so some minor Frankenstein work on my pig between 75 & 78 hardware.

To be safe I need a ‘75 & ‘78 throttle cable...[two cables ]..:unless these two model years are the same and then I just will get one

Anyone know where I can find these two accelerator cables?...I’m hitting dead ends

Thanks

 

[Dizzy]

The stock '75 used linkage. It was a push and torsion device. Pics of your carb might help.

 

[REDDER1]

Ok
No linkage in mine maybe another year??
All cable

Here are pics of the carb to the pedal

 

[ToyotaMatt]

All
My accelerator Cable snapped...I’ve searched and searched Mud and interweb...zero luck. Most posts are about Weber carbs which I don’t have

I have a 78FJ40 with a 75 2F.
Stock carb..so some minor Frankenstein work on my pig between 75 & 78 hardware.

To be safe I need a ‘75 & ‘78 throttle cable...[two cables ]..:unless these two model years are the same and then I just will get one

Anyone know where I can find these two accelerator cables?...I’m hitting dead ends

Thanks

The stock '75 used linkage. It was a push and torsion device. Pics of your carb might help.

Ok ,

@Dizzy is correct ,

ALL 1/75 - 1984 FJ40's had mechanical linkage ...........

not a cable set up like you have ?

however , you DO have the cable Provisions mounting holes , via two 6mm bolts , and the ctr cable thru hole itself

also , NO large Oval hole where the Orange Boot would be installed either ?


so it DOES seam a OEM TOYOTA Accelerator cable kit would solve your issue ...........


would agree @Dizzy and @REDDER1 ?


I would state pretty confident ONLY based on his photos above , a Sweeter then JIS Sweet Unicorn Survivor Accelerator Cable Kit sealed in its original Parts bag from that Era so long ago ....................

Would be the Ticket here

 

[REDDER1]

Ok
I’m gonna look for an70-73 cable
I guess my pig is more of a
Frankenstein than I thought

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Ok
I’m gonna look for an70-73 cable
I guess my pig is more of a
Frankenstein than I thought

i sent you a PM , Private messege , you need to go read it right now , it pretty much is your lucky day ........

 

[3_puppies]

the carb isn't really setup for a cable linkage but if it works for you.
it is setup rod linkage but your firewall isn't

 

[3_puppies]

wasn't there a bellcrank type piece that attached at the base of the carb with the 2 studs towards the fender, the cable went to the bellcrank and then transfered to a rod linkage to the carb?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Here is the NOS Accelerator Cable assy. i have available , Please PM me for further info .........thanks

 

[65swb45]

If you just want to replace what you have rather than improve a previous hack job, the cable Matt has to offer should be plug and play in your homemade brackets.

 

[Dizzy]

Either way.

Personally, I'd opt for the stock heat shield and insulator on the intake. is there a spacer under the air cleaner assembly where it mates to the carb?

 

[MoCoNative]

I ran a 2F style carb that way for several years, I made a bracket with a hardware store "L" bracket, about 1.25 to 1.5 inches long on each leg with a cable saddle that fit the holes of the "L" bracket to hold the end of the cable. The holes in those little L's are offset so they don't split the wood when you screw them to wood. It lets the cable clamp angle just right. I bolted the "L" bracket to the side of the air cleaner just below the lip of the lid and looped the cable up just like you have.

That puts the cable at a better angle for a straight pull on the throttle arm. Looks like you are hooked to the empty hole on the engine side of that arm. That will work. Ideally that attachment point should rotate as it is pulled. I used a custom made piece that utilized an add on ball, like the one you have the throttle spring hooked to and a socket with a threaded end that allows adjustment of the cable slack. Lokar may have the bits you need to build something like this. The ball I used was from the auto store, and my adapter was modified Toyota pieces. Biggest thing is to make sure you are getting full actuation. When you push the pedal to the floor, you need the primary shaft to rotate all the way over to nearly full and beyond in order to hit the release to allow the secondary butterfly to open with the vacuum diaphragm. Otherwise you will never get full carb actuation.