Does anyone know where to get a good 1HDT rebuild kit. I hit 400k on my 93FJ and the scheduled maintenance light for the cam chain came up. If I am doing that I might as well do the whole thing.
Where to get 1HDT rebuild kits (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter artgeekteaching
- Start date
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rebuild?
What are your compression numbers?
When was the last time the big end rod bearings (and bolts) were replaced?
Have you done anything to the engine (G Turbo etc)?
Have you had any head issues?
How are valves? (super thin shims etc?).
What head gasket is on the truck? (above number on left side, there are 1/2 circles cut in head gasket, #2 and #4 are factory assembly line only and it is a sure thing the head has not been off).
Icky, (Jeff) has had the same 1hdt running since 1996 in his J60. He has rebuilt the transfer case, transmission, injection pump, PS box, PS pump, and some other peripherals but the truck is still on the road. He has personally put >350,000 miles on the engine from used when it went in the truck w 118,000 original miles and unknown how many miles when Marv Spector imported it.
What are your compression numbers?
When was the last time the big end rod bearings (and bolts) were replaced?
Have you done anything to the engine (G Turbo etc)?
Have you had any head issues?
How are valves? (super thin shims etc?).
What head gasket is on the truck? (above number on left side, there are 1/2 circles cut in head gasket, #2 and #4 are factory assembly line only and it is a sure thing the head has not been off).
Icky, (Jeff) has had the same 1hdt running since 1996 in his J60. He has rebuilt the transfer case, transmission, injection pump, PS box, PS pump, and some other peripherals but the truck is still on the road. He has personally put >350,000 miles on the engine from used when it went in the truck w 118,000 original miles and unknown how many miles when Marv Spector imported it.
- Thread starter
- #5
I have not done a timing belt on any engine like this. My only experience is high performance chev, I will find some vids to see what I might be getting into. My dad is the diesel mechanic, not me. So the light must come on every 100k then? Nothing has been done to this engine, big end rod bearings never replaced, head never off, turbo is stock. I replaced the AC compressor, bels and the alternator, that is it so far. Gets great fuel mileage at around 24mpg, I have not done a compression test since I bought it and I cant remember what they were, it is in my notes. It is woefully inadequate on power, but maybe that is just the deal with these. On the highway it taps out at about 70 mph. If I can get away with changing the timing belt, tensioner and a gasket or two that would be awesome. Where would I find those parts?
short list;
11400-17030 Short Block
11101-17020 Head
13501-17020 Cam
other than you sensing your factory diesel HD-T (164HP spec'ed) doesn't have enough oomf, you may not need any parts or a rebuild.
the engine freshly rebuilt isn't going to give you a high performance Chevy (400-600HP) feel no matter what you do to it.
money better spent would be to ditch your (presumably) auto tranny for a 5 speed
HTH's
11400-17030 Short Block
11101-17020 Head
13501-17020 Cam
other than you sensing your factory diesel HD-T (164HP spec'ed) doesn't have enough oomf, you may not need any parts or a rebuild.
the engine freshly rebuilt isn't going to give you a high performance Chevy (400-600HP) feel no matter what you do to it.
money better spent would be to ditch your (presumably) auto tranny for a 5 speed
HTH's
You get the parts at raddcruisers.com
If you rebuild it just to rebuild it and do the pump, injectors, turbo, pistons and everything else, it’s a fast and easy way to spend 8k, weather you dad is a diesel mechanic or not. Timing belt kit is 3-4 hours with the water pump for someone who doesn’t turn wrenches a lot.
If you rebuild it just to rebuild it and do the pump, injectors, turbo, pistons and everything else, it’s a fast and easy way to spend 8k, weather you dad is a diesel mechanic or not. Timing belt kit is 3-4 hours with the water pump for someone who doesn’t turn wrenches a lot.
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BEBs need done ASAP, before the timing belt probably.
Here's the how to with parts list for the timing belt:
forum.ih8mud.com
Only addition I would recommend is the turbo water hose coming off the radiator inlet pipe because it's really easy to get to.
This video was helpful:
Only weird thing is that post and the manual both call for removing IP pulley but there appears to be no reason for this...video leaves it untouched which is what I did.
My belt looked brand new and the water pump and tensioner seemed fine but I replaced everything anyway since I already had the parts.
Here's the how to with parts list for the timing belt:
1hdt timing belt change
i know this has been documented elsewhere but every thread i've looked through is old and the pictures don't show up anymore so i thought i'd document my experience. as a word of caution im not the most knowledgable but am willing to learn so here goes. this is my first timing belt I've ever...
forum.ih8mud.com
Only addition I would recommend is the turbo water hose coming off the radiator inlet pipe because it's really easy to get to.
This video was helpful:
Only weird thing is that post and the manual both call for removing IP pulley but there appears to be no reason for this...video leaves it untouched which is what I did.
My belt looked brand new and the water pump and tensioner seemed fine but I replaced everything anyway since I already had the parts.
There's a little button in the gauge cluster to reset the timing belt warning light (it's what the hole is for in the cover).
Lots of info on here about, e.g., upping boost even with stock turbo, etc. But you can't do anything safely without an EGT gauge. I have a Wink turbo and run up to 25psi with a not great (done myself) tune and have close to modern driveability (i.e. I can do 70 on flat ground towing a 4000lb trailer no problem).
Lots of info on here about, e.g., upping boost even with stock turbo, etc. But you can't do anything safely without an EGT gauge. I have a Wink turbo and run up to 25psi with a not great (done myself) tune and have close to modern driveability (i.e. I can do 70 on flat ground towing a 4000lb trailer no problem).
- Thread starter
- #10
Thank-you everyone for your help. I am a newb to the cruisers. I sold my 2018 Taco because it felt to "tinny" and I didnt think it was worth the money. I always wanted a diesel FJ80 so found one after selling the Taco. I don't need anything fast but I need reliable as it is my daily driver. I need a few small things on this currently like an electric window motor, front-end rebuild in the see-able future. I will do a compression test and do a leak down then get the big end bearings taken care of and do the timing belt as soon as I get parts in. Thank-you.
I bought a performance rebuild kit through Noordeman in Australia. Those guys were an absolute pleasure to work with.
I spent $3,800, including shipping for the kit. I rebuilt the engine at Engines by AIMS in Nevada for around $2800. These guys have worked on several 1HD-T and FT engines over the years and its where Valley Hybrids takes engines for rebuilding.
I highly recommend you manage this whole process yourself if you want the vehicle buttoned up in a reasonable amount of time. Allowing another shop to do it is going to take you more than a year for everything to wrap up - ask me how I know.
artgeekteaching-
First, do not watch that video for timing belt change. It greatly underestimates the pain of spring removal and replacement on the tensioner. It also goes down to a water pump change. Lastly, there is something wrong with truck as it has a hard start at end.
As 67azcruiser said a manual transmission is the easiest way to get better return out of your truck. 24 mpg is exceptional in a 80 series BTW.
As was said, the big end rod bearings (BEB) must be done now before driving it too much more. You will need the bolts as they are torque to spec (one time use) and a set of standard bearings. Radd cruisers and others often have them in stock. You will also need a tube of black FIPG (form in place gasket) from Toyota dealer. The oil pan will need to be removed and a set of six or so 4" wallpaper stripper blades from ACE etc work well to tap and and break the pan glue loose from the block. I normally also back the two studs at rear of pan with double nut system (these go into the rear main seal holder). It is not that hard a job if you have some skills. Please note if the FIPG you remove appears "gray" in color it may be original to factory assembly (remember post assembly line FIPG is black) and may mean issues before you get in too deep.
If you find failure with the bearings please post photos and let us give you some guidance.
You can do a compression test first or in tandem with the bearing change but you want to hold off on any long trips.
First, do not watch that video for timing belt change. It greatly underestimates the pain of spring removal and replacement on the tensioner. It also goes down to a water pump change. Lastly, there is something wrong with truck as it has a hard start at end.
As 67azcruiser said a manual transmission is the easiest way to get better return out of your truck. 24 mpg is exceptional in a 80 series BTW.
As was said, the big end rod bearings (BEB) must be done now before driving it too much more. You will need the bolts as they are torque to spec (one time use) and a set of standard bearings. Radd cruisers and others often have them in stock. You will also need a tube of black FIPG (form in place gasket) from Toyota dealer. The oil pan will need to be removed and a set of six or so 4" wallpaper stripper blades from ACE etc work well to tap and and break the pan glue loose from the block. I normally also back the two studs at rear of pan with double nut system (these go into the rear main seal holder). It is not that hard a job if you have some skills. Please note if the FIPG you remove appears "gray" in color it may be original to factory assembly (remember post assembly line FIPG is black) and may mean issues before you get in too deep.
If you find failure with the bearings please post photos and let us give you some guidance.
You can do a compression test first or in tandem with the bearing change but you want to hold off on any long trips.
They can do 100mph towing a half ton excavator. Your lack of power could be in the injection pump. When they are worn, they tend top lose power when the engine gets hot.
Engines Australia do the best aftermarket kits in the world and they offer cheap freight to North America with DHL.
BEBs need done ASAP, before the timing belt probably.
Here's the how to with parts list for the timing belt:
1hdt timing belt change
i know this has been documented elsewhere but every thread i've looked through is old and the pictures don't show up anymore so i thought i'd document my experience. as a word of caution im not the most knowledgable but am willing to learn so here goes. this is my first timing belt I've ever...
Only addition I would recommend is the turbo water hose coming off the radiator inlet pipe because it's really easy to get to.
This video was helpful:
Only weird thing is that post and the manual both call for removing IP pulley but there appears to be no reason for this...video leaves it untouched which is what I did.
My belt looked brand new and the water pump and tensioner seemed fine but I replaced everything anyway since I already had the parts.
i made that timing belt thread and 100% agree after the fact you do not need to take that IP pulley off. it’s just what the manual told me
to do
