where is flasher relay hiding in a 73 FJ40
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On mine it was to the right of the drivers side kick panel...about 10 inches above the clutch pedal on the firewall. It is rectangular and marked flasher.
I would however assume nothing and NOT convince myself that it was the only flasher ever installed on your truck. Prior owners do crazy things.
I would however assume nothing and NOT convince myself that it was the only flasher ever installed on your truck. Prior owners do crazy things.
Flasher relay location
I just changed mine in a 74 FJ40 this morning. Mine was located on the left side of the dash brace, to the left of the steering wheel, above clutch. It is a small black w/ white box, approx 2"x1"x1", with a black grnd, red and yellow wires. You can remove it by unscrewing grnd from dash brace, disconnecting the red/yellow wires from the wiring harness, and then unscrewing the 10mm bolt holding it in place.
Louis
I just changed mine in a 74 FJ40 this morning. Mine was located on the left side of the dash brace, to the left of the steering wheel, above clutch. It is a small black w/ white box, approx 2"x1"x1", with a black grnd, red and yellow wires. You can remove it by unscrewing grnd from dash brace, disconnecting the red/yellow wires from the wiring harness, and then unscrewing the 10mm bolt holding it in place.
Louis
Well it looks like this on a 1979 model:
(Sorry the pedals rather in the way.... I must take another photo one day!)
(Sorry the pedals rather in the way.... I must take another photo one day!)
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I am pretty sure on the 73 it would be at the top of your picture where the clamp holds the wire bundle together. (oh and on the other side of the rig)
On a similar note of where its located, does anyone know how to check to see if the flasher is indeed dead? Can you see this on a tester? My turn signals and hazards (common to the flasher) died on a long trip home a few days ago and I'm thinking the flasher is dead since my fuses are OK.
Thanks
Thanks
My turn signals work, but my flasher does not. Wiring is good to the switch.
check that the rod to the switch is seated correctly in the switch
also, gunk can accumulate, so cleaning the switch helps.....
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The flasher works by current flow so it MUST have a load on it to activate it. Sometimes a single bulb (one burnt out on one side) will not activate the flasher. If both bulbs light brightly when you move the switch left or right, but do not flash, then you have a bad flasher. If they light, but are dim you have a grounding issue or dirty contacts in the sockets or elsewhere. Do the "Clean the Grounds" routine described on here a thousand times then test again.
Can a bad flasher modulle just cause one side to not blink? Passenger tailight goes on, but does not blink, drivers side is fine.
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did you check the light bulbs on the nonflashing side? That sounds liek one is burnt out.
My signal problem was due to a really old wire, a dufus move on my part, and a burnt connection. I accidently hooked up the voltage thingy for LEDs backwards and gounded out my system while in a rush to get everything back together for a wheeling trip.
My signal problem was due to a really old wire, a dufus move on my part, and a burnt connection. I accidently hooked up the voltage thingy for LEDs backwards and gounded out my system while in a rush to get everything back together for a wheeling trip.
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If one side flashes the flasher is good. Check the bulbs on the bad side to make sure they are the proper type, have good clean sockets and the housings are grounded properly. A dirty switch or one with a warped circuit board can also cause this.
Very good description. That's exactly where the flasher is located on my '75.
By the way, sometimes LED lights don't draw enough current to trip the flasher. I had this problem when I merely switched my blinker indicators (in the speedo head) over to LED.
I'm perplexed by my issues. my flashers don't even turn on, let alone flash. On the cluster, one light will come on but extremely dim, the other doesn't do anything. Also, my lights won't engage in high beams. Horn also stopped working but I think that's a separate problem. Could this be from bad connections in the switcher itself? I'm thinking this since flashers and high beams all tether there, but this doesn't explain why the hazards switch doesn't activate the flashers either. Did a ground come undone or a bad bulb be capable of these issues?
I replaced the flasher today and it works fine now. Apparaently, the old mechanical OEM flasher can go out on just one side. Not sure how, but the replacement fixed the problem.
Nice.
Nice.
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As I stated before , the old mechanical flasher must have a certain current flow before it will flash. If one side flashes but the other side doesn't then the side that doesn't is not allowing full current flow. Could be bad grounds, dirty contacts... Is that side dimmer than the other side?
Some newer solid state flashers flash as soon as power is connected whether there is a load on them or not, while others are still current driven but just take a lot less current than OEM to activate. Glad you got it fixed with a new flasher but there is still an issue somewhere...
Some newer solid state flashers flash as soon as power is connected whether there is a load on them or not, while others are still current driven but just take a lot less current than OEM to activate. Glad you got it fixed with a new flasher but there is still an issue somewhere...
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XTFRITZ....
I had to run power directly to the flaser instead of using the existing power. It is simple to put a fuseable link right off of the fuse box for the power going into the relay. Try that and see if a clean power source for the flasher helps your power issue. Make sure when you try it it is fused. If not, you may have a bad ground and casue damage to go up to the switch in the steering column and the hazzard switch.
If you want, I could draw up how I bypassed the exisiting wiring to make a my own power and flasher circuits.
I had to run power directly to the flaser instead of using the existing power. It is simple to put a fuseable link right off of the fuse box for the power going into the relay. Try that and see if a clean power source for the flasher helps your power issue. Make sure when you try it it is fused. If not, you may have a bad ground and casue damage to go up to the switch in the steering column and the hazzard switch.
If you want, I could draw up how I bypassed the exisiting wiring to make a my own power and flasher circuits.
To save you a moment on drawing up the diagram, I would take my power from the power post of the fuse block, put an inline fuse of probably 10A or smaller and have that connect directly to the flasher. Did I get this right?
FYI I was looking for the flasher today and the PO installed an aftermarket flasher which has three terminals (just like the yota version) but he had only the ground connected and one power connection going in and nothing on the third terminal. The flasher itself is wrapped in electrical tape
and is some brand X.