When is it OK to try and pull out the odd stuck truck? (1 Viewer)

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What is the advantage/difference of snatch versus pull? I see here lots of discussion of using elastic snatch straps, non-elastic tow straps and chain. If somebody is stuck and the tow vehicle is parked to hook up and pull, what is the difference what material to use? If a tow truck came along it would use a cable attached to the winch, which is a non-elastic direct pull. Why would I need an elastic device?

different idea.
Tow strap, you're using the engine to pull.
Snatch strap, you're using the Kinetic Energy of the pulling truck and maybe engine too if you keep it gunned (probably not a good idea in some cases).
K.E. of 6000 lbs at 10 or 20 mph is a lot of energy...
 
I've winched out Noah in his 60 and my buddy in his Disco II.

Other than that, it's unfortunate that our society has reached a point where the term lawsuit is commonplace.

Wife and I saw a guy and his family stuck in his MDX up at Stratton. He had tried to go between parking lots and sunk in.

Wanting to help out, I was tempted to winch him out, but then I started to think if the cable broke, someone got hurt, his truck got damaged etc, etc.

We drove off.
 
different idea.
Tow strap, you're using the engine to pull.
Snatch strap, you're using the Kinetic Energy of the pulling truck and maybe engine too if you keep it gunned (probably not a good idea in some cases).
K.E. of 6000 lbs at 10 or 20 mph is a lot of energy...

So the elastic idea of kinetic energy is highly dependent upon the anchor points holding up, as well as the elastic device holding on to the anchor?

I have never pulled anybody out (or any object for that matter) with a "yank", as it seems far to risky and dangerous. But you folks are suggesting that it may be relatively common off road. If so, how reliable (%-wise) is it and how much life do you get from an elastic device?

I ask because I am considering what type of equipment to buy.

Thanks
 
I don't know of any elastic rope that has failed. I guess they don't produce them long enough. I'm not sure for how long they've been on the market, but I'm sure 7 years ago there were no elastic ropes available.
There is a greater chance that a winch will fail than elastic rope.

Regards
Samo
 
I've winched out Noah in his 60 and my buddy in his Disco II.

Other than that, it's unfortunate that our society has reached a point where the term lawsuit is commonplace.

Wife and I saw a guy and his family stuck in his MDX up at Stratton. He had tried to go between parking lots and sunk in.

Wanting to help out, I was tempted to winch him out, but then I started to think if the cable broke, someone got hurt, his truck got damaged etc, etc.

We drove off.

Well, if i get stuck in the snow, please stop to help me. I aint gunna sue a fellow mud member....then again, im not driving an MDX and ive only gotten stuck once, trying to get my friends Heep unstuck, i high centered myself on some thick packed snow. Whoops. Had a wrangler pull me out from dry pavement with my tow rope. all he had to do was give a slight tug and i was free enough to use my own power.
 
So the elastic idea of kinetic energy is highly dependent upon the anchor points holding up, as well as the elastic device holding on to the anchor?

I have never pulled anybody out (or any object for that matter) with a "yank", as it seems far to risky and dangerous. But you folks are suggesting that it may be relatively common off road. If so, how reliable (%-wise) is it and how much life do you get from an elastic device?

I ask because I am considering what type of equipment to buy.

Thanks

Ed

A true Kinetic recovery rope/strap (KERR) relies on a fair amount of "stretch" to store energy from the moving (tow) vehicle and then applying it the stuck vehicle, this method of recovery is VERY effective and can sometimes free a much larger rig with a much smaller tow vehicle...although it generally requires just a gentle "yank" to work properly, the incredible forces that a Kinetic rope can achieve increase the chance of component failure SUBSTANTIALLY.

Kinetic ropes are feared by many drivers, even those with a great deal of skill and knowledge on how to properly use one ( just google "kinetic rope' and you will read the horror stories of KERR failures). The KEY to the safe use, as mentioned, is to be 110% sure that the recovery points on BOTH vehicles are much stronger than the KERRs breaking point .


Although I carry a KERR in my Cruiser, personally I am quite frightened of the thought of using it unless its a LAST resort due to the safety concerns. Due to their seemingly short life span ( I am told 5 years or so) mine will probably rot before I ever use it

I prefer a typical beefy tow strap when assisting with a recovery, I feel they are just more predictable, but if you want to carry a KERR (as with any tool) I suggest a LOT of reading up on the proper use of one, it could very well save your life or someone elses.


Some call it a "must have", others call it a "loaded gun"....

I call it "another option" :)
 
so what would the approximate breaking strength of that big nasty tow hook on the front and back of my rig be?

jp
 
so what would the approximate breaking strength of that big nasty tow hook on the front and back of my rig be?

jp


I am not sure of the WL rating (if there even is one) of the stock hooks, but I feel that theysafe only on the very lightest-duty work.

I remembered a thread where stock hooks were referenced

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=75568&highlight=broken+tow+hook


This holds true to any rig, but considering the weight of the 100, I surely would not trust anything but high rated rings with sturdy frame-mounts when making/receiving a recovery.
 
I've used a Kinetic rope a lot. I've pulled out a couple of rigs stuck in mud holes and I've used it a lot to pull out bushes in the yard; root and all. It works great but you do have to know what you're doing. After a while, you get used to how it will react and how much throtle to use. But like others have said, heavy duty recovery points are crucial.
 
My old man had a metal hook come loose and imbed in the fiberglass tailgate of his Excursion. The hook actually penetrated through the innner skin. Scary stuff.

That being said, I've always heard that a safe way to avoid the 'loaded gun' is to drape something over the mid-point of the tow rope/winch cable. It must be heavy enough to deflect the trajectory of the rope toward the ground.
 
Pulling in reverse

I have heard "You should not pull in reverse" before but do not understand why not would appreciate some more information on the why not?

thanks
 
I have heard "You should not pull in reverse" before but do not understand why not would appreciate some more information on the why not?

thanks

IIRC short of it is that the ring gear teeth etc are asymmetric and there is more stress in one direction than in the other. so more chance of damage. Some threads here discussing this in details.
 

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