Wheels spinning inside tire (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 2, 2009
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Location
Cairo, Egypt
On my 17" RW wheels and Coopers AT3 LTX: My wheels spin inside the tires every time I go offroad. Thus taking them off balance.
I tried Permatex sealant and other adhesives (including hair spray) but none prevents this.
This happens at 30psi and lower.
Engine is a v8 twin turbo diesel so it's the torque to blame here..

Anyone with this specific wheel tire combination suffering the same?
Short of installing beadlock wheels, any ideas on how to prevent this?
 
V8. Twin Turbo. Diesel. - wow. Torque for days. I can see why the tires are crying for mercy and spinning on the wheels.

Drag racer book of tricks
- Wheel bead locks
- Rim screws
- Bead Seat Knurling

Some other ways
- Increase tire width to increase bead seat pressure
- Decrease wheel width to increase bead seat pressure
- Increase rim size to increase bead seat leverage
 
There are lots of people with abundant torque and no issues. I would say most. And you would have to be in very high traction terrain (solid rough rock) and not sand. Were the beads really slathered with lube when they were mounted? Are you running aired down tire pressures? Is this a common occurence in your area?
 
Were the beads really slathered with lube when they were mounted?

This^^^^^

The only time I have observed tires spinning on wheels was when the installer used an unsuitable lubricant on the tires to help seat the beads. This happened to me with my all-wheel-drive GMC Typhoon - stopped at a freeway entrance light and floored it when the light turned green. I spun two tires so badly they lost all pressure, and the other two were rotated about 90 degrees from where they started - all this at standard pressure. When I finally confronted the installer (a GMC dealer), they apologized, said it was a trainee that did the install, and comped me 4 new tires.

HTH
 
Rim screws

my C2 vette had rim screws at some point in its life, but the new consensus is that they never really did anything... maybe somewhat of a ”cool racer mod”?
 
V8. Twin Turbo. Diesel. - wow. Torque for days. I can see why the tires are crying for mercy and spinning on the wheels.

Drag racer book of tricks
- Wheel bead locks
- Rim screws
- Bead Seat Knurling

Some other ways
- Increase tire width to increase bead seat pressure
- Decrease wheel width to increase bead seat pressure
- Increase rim size to increase bead seat leverage
I'll try knurling the wheels before changing them and/or tires..
Move from fixed rim weights to ‘tire balance beads’
That's a great idea, will be my first attempt.
There are lots of people with abundant torque and no issues. I would say most. And you would have to be in very high traction terrain (solid rough rock) and not sand. Were the beads really slathered with lube when they were mounted? Are you running aired down tire pressures? Is this a common occurence in your area?
Last few times I ensured no lube was used while installing them. I have to air down otherwise no go in sand. Not a common occurrence in my area, so thought would be the wheel/tire combination.
This^^^^^

The only time I have observed tires spinning on wheels was when the installer used an unsuitable lubricant on the tires to help seat the beads. This happened to me with my all-wheel-drive GMC Typhoon - stopped at a freeway entrance light and floored it when the light turned green. I spun two tires so badly they lost all pressure, and the other two were rotated about 90 degrees from where they started - all this at standard pressure. When I finally confronted the installer (a GMC dealer), they apologized, said it was a trainee that did the install, and comped me 4 new tires.

HTH
Happens in sand, no rock crawling in my area.
my C2 vette had rim screws at some point in its life, but the new consensus is that they never really did anything... maybe somewhat of a ”cool racer mod”?
If screws don't really hold, they will rip the beads apart, no?

Thanks all, great input and some experimenting on my weekend..
 
What size are your tires?
 
If you had a lot of torque, and if you had a manual transmission, and if you dumped the clutch in a high gear (3 or 4th) then maybe the mass of the tire would present sufficient inertia to spin the tire of the wheel. Basically this scenario would multiply the acceleration of the wheel. How fast the wheel speeds up. In this case, sand or low traction would promote slippage. Of course, I am way outside my comfort area with this thought.
 
What size are your tires?
LT285/70R17 LR D

If you had a lot of torque, and if you had a manual transmission, and if you dumped the clutch in a high gear (3 or 4th) then maybe the mass of the tire would present sufficient inertia to spin the tire of the wheel. Basically this scenario would multiply the acceleration of the wheel. How fast the wheel speeds up. In this case, sand or low traction would promote slippage. Of course, I am way outside my comfort area with this thought.
Truck is heavy and climbing dunes with intermittent softer patches introduces the scenario.. Soft patches which if you were riding an off-road bike your front wheel will suddenly sink and disappear under the sand and you get thrown off the bike.. happens a lot!
 
Fesh fesh?
 
1. I have seen duck tape wrapped on the rim to increase diameter a little and reduce the likelihood of loosing the inside bead of beadlock wheels. Not sure if this would help you.

2. OMF Performance will turn the RW wheel into a true beadlock for you if you could justify the cost and wait time to ship them that far.

3. In machine shops, weld is added to materials where a bearing has caused a groove, then it is machined back down to the proper tolerance again. Hypothetically, this could be done to a wheel and the bead seat area could be left a little bit larger diameter or with knurles in it. There is a wheel manufacturer that now increases the bead lip diameter to help hold the bead and it takes quite a bit of pressure to get that tire to seat properly. I forget the brand.

4. There are internal beadlock solutions for inflating inside your tire to hold the back side of the beads. An additional valve stem must be installed and the overall installation looks a little tricky. I don’t have any personal experience with these.
 
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1. I have seen duck tape wrapped on the rim to increase diameter a little and reduce the likelihood of loosing the inside bead of beadlock wheels. Not sure if this would help you.

2. OMF Performance will turn the RW wheel into a true beadlock for you if you could justify the cost and wait time to ship them that far.

3. In machine shops, weld is added to materials where a bearing has caused a groove, then it is machined back down to the proper tolerance again. Hypothetically, this could be done to a wheel and the bead seat area could be left a little bit larger diameter or with knurles in it. There is a wheel manufacturer that now I ncreases the bead lip diameter to help hold the bead and it takes quite a bit of pressure to get that tire to seat properly. I forget the brand.

4. There are internal beadlock solutions for inflating inside your tire to hold the back side of the beads. An additional valve stem must be installed and the overall installation looks a little tricky. I don’t have any personal experience with these.

Great suggestions! I have heard of the duck tape trick as well, used with lots of success. I would second that recommendation. Sounds janky but evidently it really really works.
 
1. I have seen duck tape wrapped on the rim to increase diameter a little and reduce the likelihood of loosing the inside bead of beadlock wheels. Not sure if this would help you.

2. OMF Performance will turn the RW wheel into a true beadlock for you if you could justify the cost and wait time to ship them that far.

3. In machine shops, weld is added to materials where a bearing has caused a groove, then it is machined back down to the proper tolerance again. Hypothetically, this could be done to a wheel and the bead seat area could be left a little bit larger diameter or with knurles in it. There is a wheel manufacturer that now I ncreases the bead lip diameter to help hold the bead and it takes quite a bit of pressure to get that tire to seat properly. I forget the brand.

4. There are internal beadlock solutions for inflating inside your tire to hold the back side of the beads. An additional valve stem must be installed and the overall installation looks a little tricky. I don’t have any personal experience with these.
Good to know.. Will try the duck tape as well.. shipping the wheels overseas sounds unlikely.. cost will be prohibitive. Many thanks!!
 

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