Mauser
Supporting Vendor
I am the if it ain't broke type.
Wheel Bearings, Inner Tie rods (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Lanathecruiser
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I am the if it ain't broke type.
I think its a matter of personal style, expected service life, and the amount of off-roading an owner intends to do.
Personally, I go into a mid-life restoration project with the goal to prepare the vehicle for another 10 to 20 years of trouble free operation.
Its not for everybody.
Personally, I go into a mid-life restoration project with the goal to prepare the vehicle for another 10 to 20 years of trouble free operation.
Its not for everybody.
I just did inner and outer on my passenger side. I used Proforge, really high quality and the same price as Moog. My inner was definitely worn out. For an extra $30 I replaced the outer as well. When I took it apart, the boot was torn, so I’m glad I did it.
- Thread starter
- #25
Good to know! I found a buddy willing to take on the project. Any tips/tricks that you wish you knew on the tie rods before you did it? Doesnt seem like a very hard job, but these DIY pros make everything look easy on the innerwebs these days.
Where I live, the average shop labor rate is $190-$220hr. I can easily see a shop quoting 1.5 hours per side. So imo that would be an average quote from most shops.you answered your own question there.
$650 to repack wheel bearings is robbery.
I can also bet it isn't just the inner tie rod but the bushing that has gone bad.
This is really a one
job. I “rented“ an inner tie rod tool from Orielly’s, which I think made the removal easier, but not required. Hardest part is getting the boot inner clamp back on.
Getting an alignment at a shop after your part replacement would be good idea
They are 'wear' parts, so its reasonable to expect that if one is 'worn' (vs. being damaged) then the other one is on its way out as well. This will hold true for other things such as brake pads, U-Joints, coil springs, etc....
Pretty much any wear part (if in multiples) that is subjected to the same 'normal' stresses should be replaced if its mate has an issue.
First: Never ever, let Firestone, Midas, Brake plus, corner indy shop or any general service shop touch your rig, if you respect it. Unless to vacuum the carpet, even then watch over them! You're just asked for sub-par work, if not damaging work. They can make unreliable even unsafe to drive. Which in one of the most reliable and safest vehicle to drive on the road, ain't easy. Shopping for the cheapest service work, will cost you big in the long run. If you've time, tools and mechanically inclined, do it yourself.
This is why I am so scared of shops. You pay out the !#$ and they usually make it worse. My coworker once had them dump all his transmission fluid and then double fill his oil! He said his car lit up like a christmas tree when he pulled out of the lot, then he turned right around. Of course when they cranked it and drove it none of the lights came back. Two days later after it was shifting weird he took it back, and they still gave him crap about how it wasn't their fault. Finally they checked it and admitted their mistake. I still cannot believe the car ran all the way home, then all the way back to the shop with probably double the amount of oil in it and only whatever tranny fluid didn't come out the drain....a 20xx Subaru.
I do my own stuff unless I absolutely cannot afford the tools I need to do it.
Yeah, most have no clue when job done right or wrong. They just know key goes in and it goes down the road.
I now, work on Mud members & neighbors 100 and 200 series. The amount of stuff I find done wrong and some of the ways done, is shocking. I had no idea how bad it is out there. The Land Cruiser can last a lifetime, but must be properly maintained.
Most think Dealership uses only OEM parts and fluids, Wrong!
Most all fluids used at Dealership are bulk. Like the transmission WS fluid. Guess what they don't use Toyota WS ATF. Most use bulk Valvoline WS.
Brake fluid, you'd think Toyota fluid used right! Nope!
The issue of brake fluid is a interesting one. Fact is we/they may be damaging master using off shelf/bulk, and not know it. I've now gone back to using or recommending the use of Toyota brake fluid. Toyota once got the brake fluid from same company that makes the factory fill (great stuff). Although formula different for importing in the can, then the factory fill. Today cans only say formulating to Toyota spec. But I feel safer using it at 3 time the cost, then risk of damaging a non replaceable seal in the master. It may not help, as we don't know who's making. But I'm just seeing to many seal in master go bad. I see Dealership is going through Master in alarm amounts, in all Toyota and Lexus. Most have forgotten about the recall and TBS from ~2005-2007 (non 100 series). Using non Toyota brake fluid was blamed for master seal failure then. The few dollars more for Toyota Brake Fluid "MAY" be worth it!
Those great deals on oil change. Bulk cheapo oil. Extra if you want the good stuff (Mobil One)
With oil change every 5k miles, factory recommends lubing propeller shaft & spiders. Very few shops even know 100 series have lube points, much less lube them.
Wheel bearings. Well don't get me started. Not one Dealership or INDY shop does by the book that I've seen, they can't. It's just to time consuming.
When I was just doing my restore projects. I found so much done wrong by others. It was eye opening! But now, working on others, I call it shocking.
I've one client with a 200 series had the timing chain leak. Common in the 200 series. Lexus fixed under warranty. He was nervous about letting them fix. As a different Dealership (Toyota) mess up his 100 series years ago, which I had to correct. Now we're chasing a rattle and tick started after the oil leak job. I found numerous bolts missing and improper routing, tying to correct, after he'd already taken back twice to correct. Those helped, be still we can't find that last new ratle/tick. 200 series lends itself to simple stuff not done right or at all. They're harder to work than a 100 series. Those 200 series engineers never tuned a wench while designing, that is for sure.
Off to fix another messed up!
I now, work on Mud members & neighbors 100 and 200 series. The amount of stuff I find done wrong and some of the ways done, is shocking. I had no idea how bad it is out there. The Land Cruiser can last a lifetime, but must be properly maintained.
Most think Dealership uses only OEM parts and fluids, Wrong!
Most all fluids used at Dealership are bulk. Like the transmission WS fluid. Guess what they don't use Toyota WS ATF. Most use bulk Valvoline WS.
Brake fluid, you'd think Toyota fluid used right! Nope!
The issue of brake fluid is a interesting one. Fact is we/they may be damaging master using off shelf/bulk, and not know it. I've now gone back to using or recommending the use of Toyota brake fluid. Toyota once got the brake fluid from same company that makes the factory fill (great stuff). Although formula different for importing in the can, then the factory fill. Today cans only say formulating to Toyota spec. But I feel safer using it at 3 time the cost, then risk of damaging a non replaceable seal in the master. It may not help, as we don't know who's making. But I'm just seeing to many seal in master go bad. I see Dealership is going through Master in alarm amounts, in all Toyota and Lexus. Most have forgotten about the recall and TBS from ~2005-2007 (non 100 series). Using non Toyota brake fluid was blamed for master seal failure then. The few dollars more for Toyota Brake Fluid "MAY" be worth it!
Those great deals on oil change. Bulk cheapo oil. Extra if you want the good stuff (Mobil One)
With oil change every 5k miles, factory recommends lubing propeller shaft & spiders. Very few shops even know 100 series have lube points, much less lube them.
Wheel bearings. Well don't get me started. Not one Dealership or INDY shop does by the book that I've seen, they can't. It's just to time consuming.
When I was just doing my restore projects. I found so much done wrong by others. It was eye opening! But now, working on others, I call it shocking.
I've one client with a 200 series had the timing chain leak. Common in the 200 series. Lexus fixed under warranty. He was nervous about letting them fix. As a different Dealership (Toyota) mess up his 100 series years ago, which I had to correct. Now we're chasing a rattle and tick started after the oil leak job. I found numerous bolts missing and improper routing, tying to correct, after he'd already taken back twice to correct. Those helped, be still we can't find that last new ratle/tick. 200 series lends itself to simple stuff not done right or at all. They're harder to work than a 100 series. Those 200 series engineers never tuned a wench while designing, that is for sure.
Off to fix another messed up!
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
You really should hire two techs and mentor them so you can get more work done through your "shop"
