Wheel bearing question

[uHu]

Bearings are cheap. I can't understand why people repack old bearings after they've removed everything to service a wheel. Pull them out and replace them.

Bearings are durable. I can't understand why people replace good bearings when they can just clean, lube and put them in again. As long as they are kept lubed and retightened every so often, they last a long, long time.
There is a difference between these adjustable conical roller bearings and standard bearings; so that, normally, everywhere else, you change the bearing if you touch that area.
And then there's this new thing we are supposed to think about: We shouldn't use more resources than we have to.

 

[kingdom77]

I think we just have some confusion in terminology. The FSM uses the term "preload" when referring to the fishscale method. "Preload" is synonymous with "breakaway" with what we're talking about.

View attachment 2474230

This is what I followed and my torque was around 60(harbor freight) lbs and breakaway was 11lbs. I had a hard time going past that closer to 15 because it just felt like a lot for a wheel bearing. Tempted to pull apart today and inspect / check break away after a few days driving.

 

[kingdom77]

Anecdotal assumptions on why something fails is not helpful. Too many people reuse the c clips. Hence the high failure rate of them popping off. Floppy loose is bad, but too tight is worse. Follow the manufacture of the bearings specs. Or follow Toyota’s methods, but that requires using new bearings every 30k.

I reused my C clips, they seemed tight, I struggled to get them on but if I should not reuse what size should I grab from Napa?

 

[birch hill]

You will have to get them from Toyota or Lexus. They come in several different thickness . I usually get a set in each size to have on hand.

 

[Malleus]

I also asked about this when I spoke with the master mechanic I mentioned earlier. He grinned.

He also said that (at least at that dealership, which shall remain nameless) they only use the preload spec on new bearings. They use Kentucky windage on used bearings.

I'd be willing to bet that everyone driving a 100 that had their wheel bearings serviced at a dealership, where they (mostly) follow the FSM, would be surprised at how little the ASE mechanics fret over this.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I reused my C clips, they seemed tight, I struggled to get them on but if I should not reuse what size should I grab from Napa?

Cruiser Outfitters has a pack of multiple thicknesses.

 

[kingdom77]

Cruiser Outfitters has a pack of multiple thicknesses.

Thank u

 

[JJ_SC]

I just replaced my bearings. New, Timken ones. At 50-60 ft lbs of torque, the breakaway on the fish scale was only 9 to 10 lbs. I didn’t want to go tighter for fear of over tightening. How much do I need to worry about this?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

How much do I need to worry about this?

Assuming you packed the bearings with grease really well, I wouldn’t worry at all. You’re in spec.

 

[kingdom77]

I just replaced my bearings. New, Timken ones. At 50-60 ft lbs of torque, the breakaway on the fish scale was only 9 to 10 lbs. I didn’t want to go tighter for fear of over tightening. How much do I need to worry about this?

I’m in the same spec as you but mine was a clean repack and I’m worried it’s to tight and debating pulling my truck in from the 9 degree weather and rechecking in the garage

 

[birch hill]

I think it’s too tight. Only needs to be tight enough to remove axiel play. Mine ended up 3-5 ft lbs. I have driven thousands of miles since and have several times jacked it up and checked for play. Always zero play.

 

[JJ_SC]

I think it’s too tight. Only needs to be tight enough to remove axiel play. Mine ended up 3-5 ft lbs. I have driven thousands of miles since and have several times jacked it up and checked for play. Always zero play.

Yeah, the procedure outlined in the FAQs here on Mud says 4-6lbs. But at that torque, my breakaway was at about 2 lbs. I don't know. I suppose I'll drive it for a bit and then check it again.

 

[kingdom77]

I think it’s too tight. Only needs to be tight enough to remove axiel play. Mine ended up 3-5 ft lbs. I have driven thousands of miles since and have several times jacked it up and checked for play. Always zero play.

Yeah, the procedure outlined in the FAQs here on Mud says 4-6lbs. But at that torque, my breakaway was at about 2 lbs. I don't know. I suppose I'll drive it for a bit and then check it again.

i just went out and tore mine all the way back down and tripled checked everything. At 40 pounds on the first nut and then the lock washer and then torqued the locknut and it put me at 9lbs break on the scale. I know that’s the bottom of the FSM and since I was worried about overdoing it I’m running it and check again when it gets above freezing outside. Everything I’ve read on here from people a lot smarter than me and the FSM I’m understanding that u definitely don’t want loose and at low range’s set up they go to 21 pounds and no bother with a scale. 4 pound breakaway really feels loose and it’s only going to get looser after the first 500 miles from what I read.
Good luck to all, my ocd is killing me in this and I’m done

 

[zhloea]

I’m sorry but this is simply not true. You would much rather want the preload at the tighter end of the spectrum than the looser end. Especially since they loosen up over time. Setting preload at the minimum FSM recommendation of 9lbs will yield approx. 7lbs or less after ~500mi. That is dangerously loose. Using the proper kind and proper amount of grease in the bearings & hub + aiming for 12-15lbs of preload is optimal.

I am really confusing about this pre-load process, it means we need to torqued the adjust nut to 43-57flb then check the preload, if it matches the spec 9-15, then we need to lose it then torqued to 57in-lb?

But after we loose it, it becomes back very easy to rotate not even 2 lb tension, so this is just what we want or my understanding is wrong?

Is that final 57 inch-lb too loose? could we raise it a little to like the final 10ft-lb?

 

[TheForger]

I am really confusing about this pre-load process, it means we need to torqued the adjust nut to 43-57flb then check the preload, if it matches the spec 9-15, then we need to lose it then torqued to 57in-lb?

But after we loose it, it becomes back very easy to rotate not even 2 lb tension, so this is just what we want or my understanding is wrong?

Is that final 57 inch-lb too loose? could we raise it a little to like the final 10ft-lb?

I almost completely disregard the FSM procedure on bearings. I prefer to tighten the adjusting nut down pretty snug, rotate the hub several revolutions in the direction of forward travel (this is very important), loosen it, rotate the hub several more times in direction of forward travel, then begin tightening it until I hit somewhere on the lower end of those preload specs (about 9-10lbs). Then tighten the lock nut to proper spec and that should yield a preload on the higher end of the torque spec range (12-14lbs).

 

[zhloea]

I almost completely disregard the FSM procedure on bearings. I prefer to tighten the adjusting nut down pretty snug, rotate the hub several revolutions in the direction of forward travel (this is very important), loosen it, rotate the hub several more times in direction of forward travel, then begin tightening it until I hit somewhere on the lower end of those preload specs (about 9-10lbs). Then tighten the lock nut to proper spec and that should yield a preload on the higher end of the torque spec range (12-14lbs).

It will need about 30 lb torque for touch 9lb....yeah that fsm here is not clear...

 

[zhloea]

I almost completely disregard the FSM procedure on bearings. I prefer to tighten the adjusting nut down pretty snug, rotate the hub several revolutions in the direction of forward travel (this is very important), loosen it, rotate the hub several more times in direction of forward travel, then begin tightening it until I hit somewhere on the lower end of those preload specs (about 9-10lbs). Then tighten the lock nut to proper spec and that should yield a preload on the higher end of the torque spec range (12-14lbs).

Well, after 2 hours of reading of ih8mud, I think your solution looks perfect to me, tight the first nut to get the lower end of the preload spec then it will become tighter after install the lock nut, so we will pretty much in the preload zone at that time. Thank you man!

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Well, after 2 hours of reading of ih8mud, I think your solution looks perfect to me, tight the first nut to get the lower end of the preload spec then it will become tighter after install the lock nut, so we will pretty much in the preload zone at that time. Thank you man!

FWIW, @2001LC has a good post somewhere that demonstrates and discusses the proper procedures. I typically shoot for 11-12 breakaway preload, which for newly packed bearings is about 40-44 ft lbs on the adjusting nut (repacked old bearings often upwards of 50 ft lbs).

 

[zhloea]

FWIW, @2001LC has a good post somewhere that demonstrates and discusses the proper procedures. I typically shoot for 11-12 breakaway preload, which for newly packed bearings is about 40-44 ft lbs on the adjusting nut (repacked old bearings often upwards of 50 ft lbs).

Thank you, I think I saw that post which from 2010 and LC2001 finally torqued his as 23lbs. I have a newly packed brand new bearing. I just want to make sure that when we said "40-44 ft lbs on adjusting nut" we are talking leave this torque on the adjusting nut even though it is about 10 times higher than the FSM and would not loose it before put on the lock nut. Is my understanding correct?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Thank you, I think I saw that post which from 2010 and LC2001 finally torqued his as 23lbs. I have a newly packed brand new bearing. I just want to make sure that when we said "40-44 ft lbs on adjusting nut" we are talking leave this torque on the adjusting nut even though it is about 10 times higher than the FSM and would not loose it before put on the lock nut. Is my understanding correct?

Correct. After doing the bearing setting procedure (tighten nut, spin wheel, loosen nut), then Tighten the adjusting nut to whatever torque results in the desired breakaway preload that you want and leave it there. Then put your lock washer, lock nut, etc. on.