What's a normal draw with key off?

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Run the meter and pull the grounds and isolate the basic aftermarket stuff first.

Clean battery terminals and wires with no dust/etc leading to a "track"?

Alarm or shorted kill switch?

CB on a switched circuit?

Stereo with a huge memory function?

Check your headlight switch and any other circuit that's hot with it off. You likely have a dead-short somewhere.

Starter hot wire loose or touching something, or even corrosion and debris created a "track".

Fuel pump wires that's gotten knocked loose?

Stuck or faulty brake light switch?



Any of that sort of thing could be just enough to do it.
 
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KLF

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Ya that seems too high. IIRC I checked mine once and it was only around 30 mA. And I have an Alpine head unit and a big honkin' JL 4 channel amp.
 

pappy

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I agree that .1A is high. About the only things I can think of that run full time is the memory for the clock, memory on the radio, and memory on the ECU. Those should not be pulling that much.
 
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I pulled every fuse separately, and like I said the only one that killed it was the 40 amp AM1 in the engine bay, and the only 2 things AM1 feeds without a regular fuse is the cruise control, and the rear window. I unplugged the CC and the draw didn't go away, so I guess I'll dig into the rear window wiring.
 
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*Didn't you fix or repair that window relay recently? Maybe it's shorting or the switch is crap?

O/T want a laugh, relating to the "What a month!" thread? :D

I was double checking something on mine (Amperage, same as your deal) for Lil'Bro's Runner, and forgot an important step and tried my hand at stick welding using a Fluke Meter test lead. :lol: I didn't put the + lead in the "Big "A" hole", I put it into mA... ohhh, about 250-1000cca's worth, welding the negative lead's tip in the process.

Blew both of the fuses and went "D-Oh! Whew, only the fuses and not the meter, $20 instead of $500-ish.

The hidden lesson here, we all deal with crap from time to time, but be careful when it's the electronics man!

That or "even the best screw up sometimes, RTFI!" and all that bit.

Be safe!! :clap:
 
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now you know why flukes are the s***, i bought my first 77+ for $15 at a flea market because it had two blown fuses and the guy said it did not work, went to radio shack and i think the fuses were maybe $2 and i still use it today.
 

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It is interesting. the Fluke's I've had blow the fuses when you test weld with them and sometimes even then they still die. The Rat Shack ones I have I can go oops and yank the leads off before blowing the fuses and they also continue to work despite being abused badly...:hmm: About the only advantage the Flukes have is an extra decimal place. For some reason they haven't been used for a few years and the batteries have been pulled from them.
 
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that is funny i do electrical work usually 480 three phase and i would not use nothing but a fluke, i have the original i bought at the fee market, i use that here at home and i have another fluke in my tool bag, and a fluke amp probe, and a fluke inductance tester, my life could be on the line, so i will use fluke, oh and all are stamped made in the usa>
 
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*Didn't you fix or repair that window relay recently? Maybe it's shorting or the switch is crap?

That was 2.5+ years ago...

I never had an issue until about 3 months ago. The battery I had was about 8 months old, the truck sat for a week or so and was dead. So I charged it up and after an over night sit it was dead again. So I charged it up and pulled the cables off, and I could watch the voltage drop to below 12V with no draw.... So I warrantied the bat (It's a Napa...)

About 3 weeks ago my truck had sat for 3 weeks, and was dead, but I think the cargo light may have been on. So my friend who was watching the truck charged the bat, and after 10 hours off the charger it was still showing 12.75+ volts. That seems good to me.

Since then I have had no problems, but I've just been looking into it because I try to fix problems as they come.
 

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