what's a good amperage for 3/32" 7018AC Rod

[slickrock]

I have an older Lincoln 225 AC ARC welder. I need to weld spring perches to my axle. I know 7018 is a pain to use with restarting an arc, but I have a good file to clean off the tip.

What's a good amperage for running 3/32" 7018 rod to weld spring perches to my axle?

Also read something about sticking the rod in an oven for a while before using the rod, but can't find where I read that. Anyone have any words of wisdom about that?

 

[Pin_Head]

90 A vertical and 100 A flat would be a good place to start. Restarting is not a big deal: Just rub the end after it has cooled with your gloved finger to knock off the flux. That flux cup at the end makes it pretty easy to run by dragging the tip on the weldment. Works best to hold about 1/8 inch away though. You know you are in the groove if the slag just peels off when it cools.

It is a low hydrogen rod if you keep it stored dry, but I don't worry about it for non-critical welds less than 1 inch thick as hydrogen embrittlement won't be a significant issue anyway. you can dry it in an oven at 300 F for a couple of hours before use, if you want. Make sure the metal is clean too. If it isn't clean, 6011 might be a better choice.

 

[Brasco20]

Heating the rod gets the moisture out. When i have to stop and start with 7018 i tap the rod against the metal to break the flux off the tip. Run a few beads on some scrap metal to make sure your at the amperage you want. As stated above the slag should chip off almost all with one whack. I usually use 1/8 rod around 110. Not sure about 3/32. Im still in school for welding, for 7018 we only use 1/8 and 1/16.

 

[slickrock]

Thanks guys. Metal is nice and shinny and new. I usually don't use this type of rod but it was all the harware store had at the time and I dind't want to drive to the next town over to buy different rod.

 

[Pin_Head]

It is the best commonly available rod for this application and one of the easiest to run. Do a couple of practice runs of the same general geometry to make sure you have the hang of it.

 

[slickrock]

100 AMPS was perfect. Real nice deep bead and very little slag with easy clean up with a hammer and metal brush. Very easy to maintain a good solid pool to pull along the weld. I'm a fan. I normally would not have but this stick and got lucky to find it since it was the only rod they hardware store had.

Since it was mentioned, what's a good rod for vertical and upside down welding (maybe up to a 1/4" thick steal)? The 7018 seemed to run a bit when I got to the down slope of the axle but I didn't lower it to 90 AMPS just for the little part that was at an angle.

 

[Pin_Head]

7018 is an all position rod, but the flux is a little runny in vertical welds. 6011 is a fast freeze rod and is a little easier (at least for me) to run for vertical up welding. You use a "whip" technique. Hold on one side of the weld to deposit a puddle, whip up to let freeze, down and hold on the other side, whip up to let the puddle freeze, down and hold on the other side, back and forth etc.

Some vendors make a 7018 special rod for vertical and overhead welding that has a higher surface tension, but I think that this is a DC rod. I haven't tried it yet.

If all you had was 7018 and 6011 you would be OK. Don't really need any other rods.