Um.... I've seen how you wheel Chris and while I'm not disagreeing with you I think the results of what your rig looks like afterwards will dissuade people from your method of "flex".
what will make my 80 flex more?
- Thread starter doublebuck
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Um.... I've seen how you wheel Chris and while I'm not disagreeing with you I think the results of what your rig looks like afterwards will dissuade people from your method of "flex".
To significantly change the suspension characteristics of the 80, the front end is the most obvious area for improvement. Without re-hashing the debate on what methods are best most people will ultimately agree that the stock radium arm configuration is not the most flexible.
I run a 5-link (4-link + panhard) in the front similar to the rear suspension design. It has more body roll now but is far more capable in the rocks. Others run a 3-link w/ panhard which is even more kinematically free. Combined with shocks that support the travel, the front end can move all over the place. Look up js93cruiser's setup if you want to see badass front-end flex.
I should mention that having a flexy front end is more capable but actually, IMO, requires a more capable driver. Before, you could drive by feel when the body essentially followed the front axle over terrain. I sort of miss that, actually, since it was easier to let my friends practice with.
I run a 5-link (4-link + panhard) in the front similar to the rear suspension design. It has more body roll now but is far more capable in the rocks. Others run a 3-link w/ panhard which is even more kinematically free. Combined with shocks that support the travel, the front end can move all over the place. Look up js93cruiser's setup if you want to see badass front-end flex.
I should mention that having a flexy front end is more capable but actually, IMO, requires a more capable driver. Before, you could drive by feel when the body essentially followed the front axle over terrain. I sort of miss that, actually, since it was easier to let my friends practice with.
Do you really? That's the part that scares the crap out of me while wheeling this massive wagon. Any off-camber dip of the wheel and the whole body sinks with it. If physics are against you, it could get ugly real quick. If you're lucky, all you get is a bit of body damage.
I love how the rear of the truck flexes effortlessly over obstacles while remaining totally level, I just wish the front would do the same. Comes back to my original post, $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
This is about as flexy as I've been able to get her while still staying upright
Last edited:
Do you really? That's the part that scares the **** out of me while wheeling this massive wagon. Any off-camber dip of the wheel and the whole body sinks with it. If physics are against you, it could get ugly real quick. If you're lucky, all you get is a bit of body damage.
I love how the rear of the truck flexes effortlessly over obstacles while remaining totally level, I just wish the front would do the same. Comes back to my original post, $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
This is about as flexy as I've been able to get her while still staying upright
Yeah - what I mean is that if you keep the front relatively level, you are likely to make it through whatever you're doing. You can drive sort of intuitively by "feel" without having to really pick much of a line.
Having a flexy front end makes the rig more capable, no doubt, but you have to get a little bit used to it if you grew accustomed to the rigid front end.
That was in Hollister, the "Jungle Trail".Heya cardona- where is that trail in your pic?
And who does your paint work?
The paint job? That's DIY
I've heard most people refer to that trail as "can opener"
if it's the one that ends with some stepped concrete blocks and some rocks.
That's the one! No idea of it's official name, that's what all the guys were calling it so I went with that...I've heard most people refer to that trail as "can opener"
You might be right in calling it that. It's worse now than it was earlier this year - here's from the last time i went through it:
Have you done this before wrench?? How does it work? Worth the effort?
Poor man's three link and it works, but puts a lot of stress on the axle tab.
I haven't had the need to remove sway bars and still flex nicely. I have a 2.5" OME and installed TJM longs. Works awesome
Ask akirilo...better yet, I will forward him the link, now.
He pulls it, so can offer real world review.
OK, here you go. Stock arms, driver side front bolt pulled (aka hitch pin), disconnect sway bar, and last but not least; get long enough shocks so that you can actually benefit from no sway and hitch pin. Some folks like to freak about pulling the pin, stress on the bracket etc. I welded reinforcements to the bracket and wheel the crap out of the truck; it hasn't torn off yet. Don't forget to extend the brake lines, or at least drop the mounting brackets as far as you can
Don't see why not.
The front bolts are there to hold the housing and control axle wrap, mostly due to braking forces. When you brake after 1 bolt is removed, it dives down terribly to 1 side and puts alot of strain to the 1 bracket. Its near terrifying when going down a steep decent. So you would want to be going very slow. I was impressed when hitting sqaure curbes at speed and hardly feeling a thing. So in reality, if you dont plan to slow down at all - its great!!!