what welder to get?

[saint60]

I want to buy a mig welder and start to do some welding projects on my cruiser (sliders, bumpers). I don't have a whole lot of welding experience but i just want to buy one and teach myself and then start to do projects. I just don't know which one to buy. There are so many different options out there as far as voltage, amperage, wire feed diameters, temp, everything. I will just use it to weld stuff on my cruiser and things like that. I know that some of you have welders. Can any of you send me in right direction as far as make/model? I want to spend around $500 or less. Thanks in advance.
Nate

PS If any of you want to buy a 72 chevy let me know. I have to go to grad school and refuse to sell the cruiser.

 

[lowtideride]

Ones that can weld holes shut in t-cases.......haha jk...


In my garage I have a stick welder for the thicker stuff and a hobart 135 for thinner crap.

 

[Tooth Fairy]

If you wind up with a wire feed just make sure that if it's flux core, which keeps initial price down, you can upgrade it to run gas.

A lil' buzz box like that should be good to get you started. Keep in mind that you are gonna need a helmet, gloves, leathers (while not necessary, wise nonetheless) an angle grinder with a bunch of discs and a wire wheel and if you go with 220v you'll need an extention cord to get into the drieer circuit if you are renting and don't wanna waste your $ on someone else's house.

All that said I started with an AC/DC Lincoln stick welder that I picked up for around $200. I then got some leathers, used ,but, in good shape, from a friend of mine who is a pipefitter. He's the guy that taught me how to burn rod too.

I love burning rod. I think it takes a lot more skill and technique and that, to me, makes it that much cooler. I also use a mig when I can for certain jobs it just can't be beat.


Oh yeah, and you might wanna consider a torch or something too.

Good luck and I hope that's as clear as mud.

 

[Junk]

Post this in outfitting. Over here we'll just tell you that Lowtide prefers to stick because he likes the stick in the ass

 

[Gus]

For $500 +/- you could get a 110V MIG set up, great for sheet metal and similar thicknesses of steel; forget about welding up thick stuff with it, simply isn't powerful enough. For welding up sliders, bumpers and the like I'd recommend going with 220V MIG, but a new one will set you back at least $1000, maybe search for a good used one. While not cheap, TIG welders can produce some great welds with thicker material but is a harder to use than a MIG. Just my .02.

 

[IDave]

Is there such a thing as a small, cheap TIG?




...and would you let Junk loose with it?

 

[treerootCO]

Save up for a 220. Night and day difference.


I have the Miller and really like how simple wire changes are compared to the 110 mig I let the smoke out of.

 

[Junk]

...and would you let Junk loose with it?

I already have a tig thanks I have the Thermal Arc Prowave 185. Nice small inverter unit both AC/DC with pulse available in both.

aaahhhh, tiggin ss.....

oh, and just for good measure

 

[lowtideride]

Next time ya get out of NJ come weld some s*** on my truck....( Sick Welds jackass)

 

[Junk]

s*** rolls down hill, so therefore I'll never make it to FL LOL.

Actually, whole family will be heading down in Jan some time. May actually end up spending a few days not far from ya, so if any of you FL fawkless fawks go wheeling, I'm taggin along. Of course I won't expect Alejandro to show up since he never gets out any more.

 

[lowtideride]

Hell ya man..keep me posted..( you got shot gun)...

...It wont be as exciting as your trip was when I went (3 winches on your truck)...But I'll round the crew up and we will hit the trails...Don't work to hard til then.

 

[Junk]

Better get your share of the bitches now, cause when I'm down there they'll all be flocking towards the Junkster.

 

[saint60]

Ones that can weld holes shut in t-cases.......haha jk...


In my garage I have a stick welder for the thicker stuff and a hobart 135 for thinner crap.

nah dude-that's my little brother. we got that one resolved. i bought a whole fj60 for $300 just last week and he stole the tcase from me!

 

[saint60]

oh yeah one more thing, when you guys say stick welder do you mean oxy-acetylene or an arc welder? which one of those is better? thanks. and guys i'm loading the cruiser up and i'll be over to florida too to go wheelin. i figure if i leave now i will see you guys sometime around christmas!!

 

[lowtideride]

Stick=arc....It sucks for the most part, but ive done it so much, im just getting use to it.

Get the best welder you can so your stuck like me with two diff welders.

 

[woody]

IMO, welders are a lifetime purchase...buy one nice one now, and don't look back.

Miller has great quality, I have no regrets with my 185 model. Their 210 is great, and would be my current choice in their lineup, folllowed closely by the 175. IMO, their smaller 135 isn't enuf for any "serious" work you may get into.

I use my stick welder tho on rare occasions...it's great for mixed metals (cast to steel, etc....)

If you want something REALLY kewl, purchase a used stick welder for the thick stuff and a Ready Welder for the thin....I know people who run their home shop that way now with no problems.

 

[Velocity2]

get a hobart ironman 250.......it may be more expensive but a very good deal. Very reliable and rugged machine. WIth that said im still putting around with a HH180 aka hobart handler 180. I also got a older than the hills lincoln AC 225 i picked up for 100 bucks. just look around! Only thing is welders are HEAVY so shipping might not feel to good.

FYI-fusing with oxy-fuel does produce a stronger weld when done correctly. MY friend which is getting all his structual certs etc in welding (3,000 hours class) can make a 75,000 lb oxy-fuel fuse compared to a 50,000lb stick/arc weld.

Im still lazy with my MIG. I love the challenge of the stick though! Anyways i want to get a ESAB TIG.......

 

[Steve C]

I think I've said this before and gotten hammered but, if I could have only one welder it would be a Tig. And as mentioned above, welders (like compressors, etc) are lifetime purchaces.

Heres why:

1. An ac/dc tig can weld any weldable metal.
2. tig gives you control of the arc energy during the welding process (mig starts cold and ends hot).
3. Tig allow welding of very thick metals, as well as very thin metals, plus you can weld very thin metal to very tick metal (try this any other way)

Now, for cruiser stuff you will weld:

1. sheet metal for rust repairs. For butt welding patch panels tig excels. Flange or overlapp welds, mig or spot welders are just as good.
2. 1/8-1/4 thick metal for sliders, bumpers etc. See junks weld above.
3. Repair. Since tig provides high penetration welds in any weldable metal without the need to add filler, it's a natural for repair.

Cost- It aint cheap for a new machine, but they've been made for 50 years so they are out there used.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=57039&item=3853805165&rd=1

 

[zebrabeefj40]

Most TIG welders can also stick weld so you're buying two machines in one box. Stick welding is also much better when welding dirty, rusty or painted metal; as long as it's thick enough.

IMHO a used older welder is better than some of the newer machines with electronic controls. They rarely fail and if they do fail it doesn't require a service tech and a pile of $$$ to fix. I have a MillerMatic 35, built in the early '70's. Paid $233 for a clunker trade-in machine at the local welding store. Replaced all the wear items plus added a new regulator, mid-sized bottle of gas and a small spool of wire and I might be into the machine for $500. Still looks beat but works beautifully.

Found an old Miller 330 A/BP TIG machine for $600. Tested it as a stick welder; runs the smoothest arc you're likely to find in any machine, new or used! When all is said and done I might have $1K in that machine with a new regulator, foot pedal and water cooling system.

For MIG specific features I'd be looking for:

1. 220V single phase input power
2. ability to feed .022 solid wire for bodywork
3. ability to feed .030 for general fab work - bumpers, sliders, cages
4. gas capable
5. readily available consumables - contact tips and nozzles are available from Lowes, HD, NAPA and the local farm store for Miller and Lincoln machines (and their clones). Oddball machines require a trip to the welding store and maybe even a special order and a return trip.

I can also add that welding can be addictive. You get the first machine, learn it then figure out that you want/"need" another/different machine. Or you want to learn another process IE you learned stick now you want to learn MIG or TIG. So you go buy more machines and accessories...and pretty soon you need a new workshop for all the cool tools. Not that that's bad or anything....



Nick Jennings

 

[sleeoffroad]

Save, buy big and only buy once. My advise is never to pay new prices for small 110v welders. If you really are on a budget try to get one from someone that is upgrading or check the pawn shops.

I have a MillerMatic 251 and a Miller Syncrowave 180 SD. Love both and not a lick of trouble.