What tyre size?

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spressomon said:
Dang...the longer the new '03+ wheels have been on my rig the more I hate the color. I thought of having them powder coated a darker gray and then decided to hell with it as they're just going to get scratched up anyway. But they sure are fugly with brown.
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I'll trade you so you can have the nice silver 16"s back....:grinpimp:
 
jonharis said:
OK ordering tires tomorrow. I'm the most damn indecisive person I know, at least I got to the the make/model, Nitto Trail Grappler, if nothing else because I can get them at a nice discount.

It's a toss up and i'm going to sit on it for one more day. I tore another sidewall in a BFG AT, I have two spares that I can use to replace it but the remaining tread depth of any of the tire doesn't warrant a free (would be prorated though) replacement anymore. I still have the set of six 16" wheels in my shed and still like the idea of keeping the ATs for trips and winter.

I'm going to either be ordering the 315/75R16 or the 295/70R18

The info is out there and both sizes give me concerns but I gotta pick one.
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I would avoid the 18s, but that is just me...

I narrowed my search for 100s by what years came with 16s.
 
Stoptech BBK = 18" wheel min. I wouldn't, for even a dirt camping kinda rig aka "overlanding" rig, run smaller than 35" on 18". And if I had clearance I'd prefer to run the bigger 12.5" x 35" x18"...but too much sacrifice to get there.

105...105...105...105..105...105...105 :D
 
I decided to give the NAPA pads and rear rotors a try. We are pretty easy on brakes, the fronts were serviced in '09 and we no record of servicing the rears since we have owned the truck. Since we didn't really need a "premium" pad or rotor it came down to OEM vs After Market.


About 30% of the bolt on stuff on my FJ40 is NAPA, it drives the 40 purist here crazy when I mention that, the proof is in the pudding as they say. I've gotten just as good of service out of the NAPA stuff as the OEM parts that were replaced.

It also helps that the NAPA rotors were $80 and in stock vs $160 and special order from Reno (bend me over) Toyota.
 
Thanks for the further input guys. I've decided to go with the 315/75R16s after all. Several factors lead to this.

I have 4 out of 5 good 285/65R18s still and have the potential to road hazard them out still. I plan to run them in winter and long trips. I also have 2 extras that have just a little less tread if the RH doesn't go through.

I really like the additional sidewall on 16" wheels. and for my type of wheeling, low speed, chunky, rocky Colorado/Utah type stuff I think it will suit the need best.

I don't intend to do a BBK anytime soon. 1-2 years if ever.

The width still concerns me and I hope I don't regret it. I have several spacers to choose from, 1", 1.25" and can always buy something a little smaller.

With any luck I should have the body lift installed this weekend.
 
Interesting tire chains...

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I was thinking the same thing. I could probably get my LaClede/Schwab chains on/off in about the same amount of time...plus have better lateral traction too.

Related: A hunting buddy, years ago, when he got stuck out in the BFN, used rope he carried...looped through the wheels like Les' photo and tied. It got him unstuck! Although I wouldn't intentionally rely on the rope "chains" its good to have a MacGyver trick up your sleeve :)
 
OK, thanks to my son running up to Reno for me and snagging Spresso's last set of 18"s, I am only kicking myself even more now for waiting so long and riding on those freakin' oblong, never could balance, hard as bricks, made by Cooper Micky Thompson Blah Hah AT's.

Uh, thanks Dan, it rides better on your worn out hand me downs than when those tire were new. :doh:

BUT, those 35's really take the gearing to a whole new level. I think I lost a cylinder or something.

The 285/70-18 like Les was saying might be the trick. 34's will do it for me.
 
Atop 35" they're heavy tires...tough but heavy...99lbs each tire/wheel ;)

Its a slippery slope Jeff :D

BTW...it was great to meet Tyson Jeff! Good kid!
 
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And I heard all about your rig from him..........

"He's got an on-board compressor, welder, shower...He can't put anything else in there"

I replied, "oh yes he can, he'll find a way"

He was rightfully impressed.
 
Les, have you found any MPG difference between the Toyo MT and the Goodyear Kevlar MT?
 
I can't really say. I stopped keeping track of fuel mileage. But I went from a fat Toyo (~325 width) to a 285 width GY... so any gain would not be a fair comparison.
 
Update: Now with just over 5,000 miles on my 285/75R18 Toyo Open Country ATII shoes I measured the wear: 4/32" wear of the total advertised new depth of 17/32".

Looks like I'll get to see how their 50k mile tread life guarantee works :rolleyes:

But they performed without complaint or fault for our 2-week Utah foray.
 
Ok...before my recent Death Valley trip I decided to re-install the 1" wheel spacer adapters up front and move the 10mm wheel spacers from the front to the rear. Given I was going to be driving a fair amount of highway miles on this trip I wanted to see if overall stability would be enhanced with the wider track width.

I can unequivocally say it made a positive difference regarding highway stability especially in a side wind condition. I've got a little play in what appears to be the rack...and the wider track width did compensate for this apart of my DV trip test.

But...with my current ~3.5 degrees of caster the rear of the front tire now kisses the lower portion of the fender/fender liner. This is with slightly worn 285/75R18 Toyo Open Country 2's and a 1" body lift.

I suspect, assuming Slee's new front UCA allow more caster to be adjusted back on lifted rigs, we're going to start hearing about tire to fender interference for guys running 1"+ wheel spacer adapters up front with more caster.

Darn it: We need someone to make quality lower front control arms with caster correction...so to move the bottom position more forward...

Always one more thing on the "slippery slope" :rolleyes:
 
Interestingly enough... When i was running 1-1/4" spacers the ride was noticeably more harsh. I.e. feeling a lot more of the cracks in the rode. Not to mention pinch weld rub and top of fender rub at full compression with bfg 295/16s and no body lift.

I think we just need a new platform....
 
I'll probably end up having the fenders cut/trimmed for more clearance as, at least right now, I like the overall feel of + 1" front and 10mm rear track width.

Of course I could change my mind, again, tomorrow :D
 
I'd for somebody to manufacture custom front fenders (all steel) with just the OE fender line raised 1.5" and that will still either use the OE plastic liner or some sort of liner.
 
Almost time for new tires. I'll likely go Toyo ATII in the 285/75R18 size. Been following Spresso's updates on those too.

I've noticed the Nitto TRAIL grappler now also comes in the 285/75R18 size (listed specs: 35.08" x 11.26" no weight listed)

Another interesting option would be the Toyo MT in their 315/70R18.... 36's they call them (35.7" x 13").

"It should fit, right? It's only a little taller than the tire I'm running now." lol
 
Yep...they fit a stock rig. :D

For more consistent trail use, the kind of use I've had the fortune to have played on consistently the past 5-years, I think the 12.50 x 18 x 35" size would be attractive. There are times I could have used more air between the ground and wheel on my 285/75R18. But the increase in heft of this size tire keeps me tamed...

Les, you originally ran the 12.50x18x35 Toyo OC MT correct?
 
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