What tyre size?

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For me, it's not so much the desire for tall and skinny but rather fitment. 35" diameter is already a stretch for the IFS 100. Wide 35's just make it more difficult. I'm sold on the size for the 100 and my next set will likely be the same size. If I did change size, I might do the 285/70R18 (34") for better towing.

All the disadvantages of 18's have been talked about plenty. In addition to Spresso's list, there are a few other advantages I can think of.

-better steering response
-better steering response in case of a total tire blowout
-should balance better vs a 35" tire on 16's. (rubber vs alloy)

Compared to 315/75R16, the total weight (tire and rim) is about the same but the weight balance changes. the 285/75R18 will have less weight on the outer circumference and more weight towards the center, the alloy wheel portion. This will make a slight advantage in acceleration, braking and brake pad wear.

I think the sidewall height of the 285/75R18 is adequate for our 100. It's not really a hardcore off-road vehicle. If going 33's, I'd likely choose 16" wheels. Also, if they ever make a 285/85R16 (35x11.25R16), I'd very much like to try it.

Spresso, regarding the "dust" shield. I took the dust shields off my NSX and the brakes seem to cool better on the track but my NSX never sees rain nor even puddles. Heck, I don' even have windshield wipers on the thing. But for the LC, the argument is that the dust shields make the vehicle more safe becasue they prevent water from splashing onto rotors and thus temporarily reducing braking performance.

I don't live close to the snow but I've read removing the brake dust shield means more salt on the rotor and thus more salt on the caliper pistons making the pistons more susceptible to seizing. But I realize your rotors are larger than stock and there really is no bolt on replacement.

Another interesting point regarding rotor cooling, I once talked to an engineer of a custom wheel company. He said in their testing, it didn't matter whether the wheel had a solid face or had spokes, unless the wheel was designed like a fan, the spoked wheel acted like it was solid when turning. He said, in fact, the solid wheel (not spoke design) was better in that it had better heat transfer and that played a role in brake cooling.

And come to think of it, when I'm hard on my brakes, my alloy wheels are super hot. And this makes for an argument for alloy wheels vs steel wheels as alloy wheels have better heat transfer.

Now, I don't know if there is any truth to all that but it's something to think about. I'm surprised they don't have water cooled calipers and rotors. Okay, enough rambling. :beer:
 
All very good points Les! I haven't tested the 'big water flooding the rotors syndrome' yet...since I live where we typically get 8" of total precip...and this year about 1/2 of that! I know I sound like a broken record but the Stoptech BBK is high on my list of big 'bang for the buck' mods. Maybe I just had bad calipers on my '99 as others don't seem to voice their dissatisfaction with stock brakes...or their not pulling around nearly 8,000lbs of rig.

However I don't miss stones getting caught between the wheel and the caliper #1 and dust shield and the rotor #2. That was bigger issue than one might think it would be up here in the land of rock and stones ;)

And I agree with you...my interest in the 285 on 35" was for maximum clearance without needing to run wider wheel spacer adapters. The less than desirable scrub radius effect for tight switchback type trails always bugged me with 1" spacer adapters up front. And then the fender lip to tire interference on big compression hits was another although cutting the fender is the solution for that...

But in the end this size on 18" has proven to be a real winner in every situation. I can't think of a trail scenario where I felt having 12.5" width would have made any big difference. And the weight savings is a bonus too in comparison. Sometimes I get into the 'more is better' place and most times that's not good :rolleyes:

Having said all that I'm toying with ordering 3/4" spacer adapters to run in front with 1/4" spacers in the rear. I think that will get the front and rear track darn near back to stock and get me even more recovery chain clearance whilst providing just a little more highway stability. Still thinking about this...OTOH 'if it ain't broke...don't fix it' :rolleyes:
 
I sure would like a pair of those Stoptech BBK's. I've been on the lookout for a used pair but no such luck.

But I've been using using Axxis Ultimate brake pads on DBA rotors and the performance has been pretty good. However, after just 12k miles, the pads are looking pretty thin already and the brake squeal is killing me.
 
Shaggy lost two duratracs this weekend. Starting to think sticking to my OCMTs is the best plan unless those ATIIs pan out well
 
Going out for a few days of hunting so I will have basic feedback coming.

I've got 21,3xx miles on the Stoptechs since install and the pads are at ~50%. The rotors look good too. I tend to be somewhat hard on my brakes given the GVW of my rig and how I drive so I'm super happy with pad life so far. Brake pads are relatively cheap (relative to their importance ;)) and I generally replace them when 1/2 worn and as such I'll be replacing them early next year...

Stoptech, like most if not racing style brakes I suspect, don't use anti-squeal plates. The only time it has been an issue is when off-roading in very dusty conditions and then crawling down some steep slope they tend to squeal. But the performance more than offsets that slight annoyance.

BTW: My Stoptech calipers use Porsche style pads and are interchangeable as needed.
 
Jon,

Good rhetoric on your EP thread about Utah trails! Kudos to you!!! I enjoyed reading through it and have been following it. I've altered my position slightly though as a result of all the input...

Looks like you have your gas and lodging funds for your photo essay!
 
Jon,

Good rhetoric on your EP thread about Utah trails! Kudos to you!!! I enjoyed reading through it and have been following it. I've altered my position slightly though as a result of all the input...

Looks like you have your gas and lodging funds for your photo essay!

Thanks. When an issue is truly in your back yard it becomes personal. I'm still formulating my opinion and it evolves as more info comes out. I drove 900+ miles this weekend in my Subaru and saw the outer perimeter as well as some of the hot spots. It gave me a lot to think about. you'll see a detailed post soon.

FWIW: The ExPo thread is by far the best one going out there. I have been monitoring and involved with about 6 threads on various forums and ExPo has the most intelligent open minded discussion by far.
 
I sure would like a pair of those Stoptech BBK's. I've been on the lookout for a used pair but no such luck.

But I've been using using Axxis Ultimate brake pads on DBA rotors and the performance has been pretty good. However, after just 12k miles, the pads are looking pretty thin already and the brake squeal is killing me.

It's not much but here is 10% off. This is who I buy my pads from. Great customer care.

http://zeckhausen.com/

Use Coupon Code 'MONDAY' for a 10% Savings*
on brake purchases until midnight, December 2, 2012

I too like the Axis ULTs. I like them more on my Subaru than the 100. I don't know what the difference is. I'm using basically the same rotor/pad combo on both. I've never had any squealing in the Subaru but the 100 does as you described. I think I'll try the PowerStop Evolutions that Slee is pushing next just to change it up.
 
Thanks, maybe I'll give the powerstop pads a try too. I have the brake squeal. My catalytic converter seems rattle occasionally. I think it might be internal. And just recently, my PS is groaning. I'm driving a HOOPTY! I tried to flush the PS fluid and cleaned the PS reservoir screen but no difference.
 
FWIW: I just got back from about 700-mile hunting/explore trip. Of this I probably drove 200 miles or better off-pavement. Some of the trail time included rough remote 4x4 type terrain although nothing that required anything more than locking the CDL here or there.

The new Toyo OC AT2 are very smooth on the road...as was expected. No balance issues whatsoever. They are not quite as quiet as the original OC AT but definitely within my original expectation and perfectly acceptable given their higher void area.

They, on high speed gravel, do drift more predictably than the original OC AT; a welcome relief. Having said that they're not as neutral as the MT/R Kevlar in this department. But that is to be expected looking at the tread style differences. But a big improvement in this department by Toyo.

Comfort and traction are great. The lowest I aired down was 25lbs and they seemed just great in the rough.

We didn't have mud or snow to deal with so no feedback from those conditions yet.

I can't say if MPG is better or worse. Too much off-pavement travel time to accurately compare. It seems to be about the same as the MT/R Kevlar tires though...
 
Finally got to try the AT2s on really wet pavement. We unexpectedly hit some 4" deep water at 50 mph during the storm last weekend and it didn't phase them. No indication of hydroplaning at all. During hard braking they griped the pavement like it was dry.
 
Dang...the longer the new '03+ wheels have been on my rig the more I hate the color. I thought of having them powder coated a darker gray and then decided to hell with it as they're just going to get scratched up anyway. But they sure are fugly with brown.
 
They would look good on a Black LX! Those '06-07 LC wheels have that sort of graphite finish that does a better job of hiding brake dust than my 03-05 LC wheels.
 
Just a replay for my Toyo OC ATII post on EP:

12-26-12 update with recent fresh snow (<5"), hardpack snow and ice: The turning and stopping performance in the aforementioned conditions is just average based upon what I've experienced the past 4-days or so driving around town.

~7,200lb LC running ~45psi x 4. For comparison and FWIW: With similar conditions the Goodyear MT/R Kevlar in the same size, on the same rig running the same PSI is considerably better and more predictable. I was hoping for better snow/ice performance out of the OC ATII...but it is what it is...as they say ;)

285/75R18
 
I took off my 7.50-16 Bridgestone U-Tractions on splits and went to LT285/75R16 General Grabber AT2. They have been amazing so far on wet and dry pavement, I will see how they work offroad soon (if my schedule holds up).
 
Nice, the first real snow since we got the AT2's and the 100 is stuck in the driveway waiting for stupid ignition key parts. :mad:
We've been slip sliding along in the Mercury on the worst (Federal) all season radials I've ever owned.
 
OK ordering tires tomorrow. I'm the most damn indecisive person I know, at least I got to the the make/model, Nitto Trail Grappler, if nothing else because I can get them at a nice discount.

It's a toss up and i'm going to sit on it for one more day. I tore another sidewall in a BFG AT, I have two spares that I can use to replace it but the remaining tread depth of any of the tire doesn't warrant a free (would be prorated though) replacement anymore. I still have the set of six 16" wheels in my shed and still like the idea of keeping the ATs for trips and winter.

I'm going to either be ordering the 315/75R16 or the 295/70R18

The info is out there and both sizes give me concerns but I gotta pick one.
 
35's are already a tight squeeze for the 100. I'd go with the 295's just because they are about an inch narrower and will fit better. Had they offered a 295/80R16, then I'd go with that.
 
One of my good hunting/fishing buddies installed the Toyo AT2 285/75R18 per my recommendation on his '03 DuraMax 3-4 weeks ago. He's probably, with the extra tall all steel Caravan camper shell and extended cab, tipping the scales somewhere in the 8,500-9,000lb range.

He, apart of chukar hunting, got to test them out in all types of conditions including gumbo mud, deep (2') snow, hardpack snow & ice for days upon days since getting them installed and loves them. I was worried, since I couldn't vouch for mud and snow performance beyond the little bit of snow testing I've done, they might not measure up to the MT/R Kevlar's but they did and then some due to how smooth and quiet they are on the highway.

He, like me, ran GY MT/R Kevlar in the same size and after blowing out a sidewall decided to try the Toyo's.
 
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