glad i found this post... i have been wondering about this for awhile. seems like easiest way to swap my 83 fj60 would be a 62 third?
not sure if i read this right...
yep..
What thirds are compatible? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter traviszesty201
- Start date
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yep..
this is the route I am going to take, although I moved to 33's and even at the high altitude (4700 feet ) I haven't noticed any performance loss... (I was planning 33's and everone said Id notice a loss)
zuluzeugma
SILVER Star
This sucks cause he didn't read the whole thread before he traded the dude the thrids. So now, the truck is totally tore apart in my spot... I might have something up my sleeve with some 62 thirds though. We shall see.
zuluzeugma
SILVER Star
We did the smart thing and made frankenstien drive shafts. half 40, half 60. the slips in the drive shafts have the same spline. A redneck trick, but it worked well.
- Thread starter
- #26
yup.
little did josh know, i had it planned the whole time. with the driveshafts from nathanvet i planned to use the flange from the 40 and my own shaft, just separating the u-joint . laying under the truck lastnight we realized flipping the shaft so the slip yoke was differential end, we exchanged the male splined short end for the 40 shaft and left all the u-joints attached. much easier. time will tell if geometry of the slip on the differential end will pose problems. on the front we just slipped the driveshaft out of it's yoke and replaced with the 40 shaft. piece of cake. also during the swap, we put the 40's rear on my front since it was a bit pitted from age. everything running well and no noises, but in 4-wheel on a sharp turn, a clicking sound comes from under the front axle and it seems to want to pull it's inner tire along....might be limited slip and i didnt even notice. nonetheless thanks nathan the gears are running great.
travis
little did josh know, i had it planned the whole time. with the driveshafts from nathanvet i planned to use the flange from the 40 and my own shaft, just separating the u-joint . laying under the truck lastnight we realized flipping the shaft so the slip yoke was differential end, we exchanged the male splined short end for the 40 shaft and left all the u-joints attached. much easier. time will tell if geometry of the slip on the differential end will pose problems. on the front we just slipped the driveshaft out of it's yoke and replaced with the 40 shaft. piece of cake. also during the swap, we put the 40's rear on my front since it was a bit pitted from age. everything running well and no noises, but in 4-wheel on a sharp turn, a clicking sound comes from under the front axle and it seems to want to pull it's inner tire along....might be limited slip and i didnt even notice. nonetheless thanks nathan the gears are running great.
travis
Guys,
Quick questions:
I am getting ready to swap my Thirds for a pair out of a 62.
1- do I need flange adapters to mate them with my 83 BJ-60 drive shafts?
2- what should I replace/service in the front end while I have the axels out on the front end? (I have new seals for the rear already).
Quick questions:
I am getting ready to swap my Thirds for a pair out of a 62.
1- do I need flange adapters to mate them with my 83 BJ-60 drive shafts?
2- what should I replace/service in the front end while I have the axels out on the front end? (I have new seals for the rear already).
Assuming your thirds follow the same vintages of US parts, then yes. You won't need adapters however, you can simply swap the flanges from your current thirds onto the 62 units.
As for parts, I would really recommend a knuckle rebuild at the same time and inspect, replace or repack the wheel bearings.
If you decide you just want to replace the flanges with new ones or end up needing a knuckle kit or parts, give us a call
Assuming your thirds follow the same vintages of US parts, then yes. You won't need adapters however, you can simply swap the flanges from your current thirds onto the 62 units.
As for parts, I would really recommend a knuckle rebuild at the same time and inspect, replace or repack the wheel bearings.
If you decide you just want to replace the flanges with new ones or end up needing a knuckle kit or parts, give us a call
Not to beat a dead horse, but swapping flanges on a crush sleeve is not the best idea for longevity IMHO.
So Kurt,
Do you make solid spacers with your adapter sets?
I have never taken apart the thirds before so I don't have hands on experience here- but the common wisdom seems to agree that using a solid spacer and shims is a better way to go when replacing a crush sleeve.
Or I might I just go with the adapter and avoid opening up a perfectly good 3rd member?
Which I am sort of avoiding for lack of experience and tools ;@
-ryan
Do you make solid spacers with your adapter sets?
I have never taken apart the thirds before so I don't have hands on experience here- but the common wisdom seems to agree that using a solid spacer and shims is a better way to go when replacing a crush sleeve.
Or I might I just go with the adapter and avoid opening up a perfectly good 3rd member?
Which I am sort of avoiding for lack of experience and tools ;@
-ryan
Absolutely agree, though with care it can be successfully done. If one is not intimately familiar with the dynamics of the crush sleeve design, I definitely wouldn't recommend a flange swap and instead would say swap the flanges on the driveline or re-drill if possible.
Not sure what adapter your referring to? I do have the solid spacers available (well should have more in stock shortly). Regardless to install a solid spacer you will have to completely tear down the diff (unless you have the SST for removing the top bearing). I do have 'adapter' pinion flanges available but your right back to swapping a flange on a crush-sleeve diff, no different than re-using your existing flanges.
If your looking for say a bolt on flange adapter that doesn't require replacement, I've never seen them for LandCruiser applications.
Kurt,
Yes I was looking for a bolt on replacement-less adapter- AKA- chicken's teeth.
So instead I will go with drive shaft flange swap.
-Am I correct in my thinking that I will be sliding off the ends of the drive shafts and re-placing them with ends from the 62 donor vehicle? And in this case must I also reverse the direction of the rear shaft?
-How much is a knuckle rebuild kit?
Cheers,
Ryan
Yes I was looking for a bolt on replacement-less adapter- AKA- chicken's teeth.
So instead I will go with drive shaft flange swap.
-Am I correct in my thinking that I will be sliding off the ends of the drive shafts and re-placing them with ends from the 62 donor vehicle? And in this case must I also reverse the direction of the rear shaft?
-How much is a knuckle rebuild kit?
Cheers,
Ryan
Don't change the direction of the driveshafts, just separate the outer flange by disassembling at the u-joint, then reassemble the u-joint using the flange with the correct pattern. The u-joints are the same so no issue swapping the flanges. If you fear the condition of your joints or the ability to disassemble and reassemble them, buy some new ones
Knuckle kits start at $87
Knuckle kits start at $87
Kurt,
I just glanced at the U-joints and don't have any idea how to get them apart. Any hints? I would like to go this route if possible- remove flange from 3rd members and swap.
-thanks!
Ryan
I just glanced at the U-joints and don't have any idea how to get them apart. Any hints? I would like to go this route if possible- remove flange from 3rd members and swap.
-thanks!
Ryan
They have clips inside the ears, you'll need to remove the clips and press the caps out. I'd recommend you get your hands on a FSM or a buddy thats been through one before. If you can't track anything down I'll try and post some pics.
Kurt,
I have the FSM, and I found a good write up in the tech forum last night.
Thanks for the offer- I will try those two first.
Cheers,
Ryan
I have the FSM, and I found a good write up in the tech forum last night.
Thanks for the offer- I will try those two first.
Cheers,
Ryan
