What should I do with my $2000

[btcox]

I have saved up 2k to make my 97 LX450 awesome. It is completely stock, there are several things I want. The total for everything I want came to way over 2000. I know I want a lift 2.5" or 3" the rest is up in the air. I'm looking for suggestions because I cant make up my mind. Thanks, any ideas for cool free things are welcome also.

 

[Cruiser804]

Lift, tires, sliders, dual batteries, front bumper, rear bumper

 

[Greg W]

Lift, tires, sliders, dual batteries, front bumper, rear bumper

I'd agree in that order. $2000 will be eaten up right away in lift and tires.

 

[btcox]

Already have a set of 33's... Suggestions on brands would help also. I like the slee short bus front bumper anyone have one? opinions welcome

 

[ranma21]

I like Bridgestone Revo and Yokohama Geolander AT. The later prove to have more traction in Utah. I had both and I think I am going back for YOKO again. $2000 would get you a front bumper, lift and a snorkel.

 

[btcox]

I already have a set of BFG AT's... Not my first choice but they were free and they weren't far off from my first choice..

 

[CreeperSleeper]

SLIDERS FIRST!!! (Yelling to make a point, not trying to be rude...)

 

[46/71 Hybrid]

I'm gonna go against the norm and say tires, lift, then a good set of tools to include a welder, air compressor, and a couple of HF Grinders. That way, you can build your own sliders and bumpers and after doing a few odd jobs for friends, will be close to your $2k mark. Later on, add a cutting torch, chinese plasma, and bender, and you'll be able to do just about anything.

 

[sandcruiser]

baseline it.
make sure that all the maintenance is complete and correct. check all the known "problem areas" and get them perfect. That will likely eat into your budget a little.

After that-- spend some money on fuel.

I know that this is a radical concept for some Mudders, but I believe you should *drive* your rig. Go where you go. Do what you do. When you notice a deficiency, correct it.

Since you already have 33s, don't touch the tires for a while. I know some very, very competent drivers who believe that 33 is "as big as 99% of off-road drivers will ever need". Maybe they are wrong. I've done somewhere above 50,000km "offroad" (ok, a bunch are on Central American roads, which aren't as good as most USA fire-roads) on 31" tires. I'll eventually upgrade to 33s.

If you spend your offroad time on 4+ trails, 33's probably aren't tall enough.

Anyway, back to my initial advice: Drive it. It'll tell you what you "need" to do to improve the way it works for what you do.

Unless of course this is just about how it looks. In which case... there are plenty of web wheelers who will opine. Look at their rigs. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

I would do an OME lift and a snorkel, if there is anything left, go for a Tuffy Center console and upgrade your speakers. That way your ride will look tough, sound good, and you can lock up your valuables.

 

[azrider]

lift and bumpers.

 

[NLXTACY]

You know what, if my truck was totally stock again I sure as hell would not go lift and tires first thing. What good does that do me as a DD? Plus for the stuff that I DO exercise the truck on, its been totally fine. Just no large rocks for me. That is why from the outside my truck looks the exact same as the day I bought it. All of my time and money has gone into making my truck better, safer, more reliable and more self-sufficient. I have done just about every <$100 mod found on this site and a few that ran me quite a bit more like my power set up. I've spent a few bucks making sure I have a way to air up tires, a way to jack up the truck, a way to start a dead battery, even if its my own. I can power 110 appliances, I can auto-up my window. I can turn on the CDL in high. I can see better at night with the Slee harness. I can stop better with all new Toyota brakes. I can control the crankcase vent with a PCV catch can. I mean I can go on and on but there is soo many ways I can make my truck better and all of them well before I do lift and tires.

Now don't get me wrong. I WILL do lift, tires and armor. In fact I have an IPOR rear bumper/tire carrier coming my way, but I dont need any of those things to have a great truck that can go ALMOST anywhere.

BTW, a lot of trails have bypasses for losers like me who haven't lifted their truck yet

 

[landtank]

2000.00

450.00 ironman lift kit
365.00 ipor skid plate (on sale right now)
850.00 sliders

That leaves 335.00 for gas to beat the snot out of it.

 

[elhombre]

I come down on the side of maintance first. A tricked out truck broken down in the driveway from a warped head/blown headgasket will make you sick. At minimum, make sure the radiator is good, hoses are changed, and you have a brand new Mr. T thermostat installed. With that said, a real front bumper and sliders will keep your baby from getting too messed up till you can save up some more money.

 

[LUV24BY]

What to do with your $2000? I have a simple idea, Just SEND IT TO ME! Lemme dig up our new address here.......

Sorry - couldn't resist!! LOL

I would consider this order of mods:

1. Tires (Find a decent used set off CL or something) If you can, roll with your 33's, then move on to #2
2. Lift (perhaps 2" spacers over the spring itself) that way you have some additional clearance, and still some coin - or go Ironman
3. Bumpers - Are you more likely to go head on into someone or back into something. YOUR answer will determine which end to install on!
4. Winch - Pick up a nice winch and MOUNT IT!
5. Sliders / Armor - Again, look into the classifieds for someone needing money

Your in a good spot - lots of people need $$$, and you got $$$. Search the classifieds, the CL's aroundyou and EBAY. Try slightly used, not brand spankin new. Your $$$ will last much further.

Hell - at LEAST your not considering investing in GM Stock!! LMAO

John

 

[cruiserruf]

if you already have a set of tires than i'd go with sliders and then lift. than i'd go with the fron bumper. and then lockers if not locked. than rear bumper!!

 

[btcox]

Thanks for the advise so far. Also if anybody has any used stuff that would help. I would skip out on the lift but I go up to the Beech Mountain quite often and there are some trails that I know I will need more clearance to tackle. I have been driving my rig for a year getting used to it and spent the first year reading threads and doing all of the preventative maintenance that I have read needed to be done (except head gasket). Luckily I work at a place that has 6 mechanics in the back that will help me put everything together once I get it for free.. Any tools I need the mechanics have, and then some. ( I work for a rental equipment company). If anyone has any specs on anything they have fab'ed up that they want to send let me know, I am trying to make a rear drawer system but all of my designs keep failing miserably. Thanks again

 

[Brian Macgyver]

I would be torn about many of the suggestions above. But of all of them, I would select an OME 2.5" or 3" lift.
When I finished the body work on my truck, The guys in CSC presented me with an OME set of coils and shocks for an OME 3" medium-duty lift. That was the best gift that I could have asked for.
That lift gave me a level of handling that cannot be bested. My 80 handles better than any other lifted SUV that I have ever driven. It handles much better than stock. I am able to run the truck down the legendary 7-mile hill on Interstate 17 in Arizona at 85 MPH without concern through all of the curves. The truck handles like a sports car at speed. I can run back up the hill at 65 MPH. In off-road conditions, the truck performs perfectly.
The OME 2.5, or 3" suspension is a worthwhile investment. It is worth considering.

 

[Nay]

You should invest half in an OME lift and half in the stock market. Within a few months your losses will be the same on both

 

[lt1fire]

Since you've already got sliders I'd say a F.O.R. lift and some sliders. That should bring you to a little under $2000

 

[cruiser-poor]

I was surprised to see how far down the list a lot of people put sliders. Those won't take the whole $2K budget, but if I had to pick a first mod, that's it. If you crunch your rocker panel and/or lower door, you could be spending a lot more than $2K at a body shop.

IMHO the best bang for the buck mod on this rig is the Pin 7/CDL switch.

Another relatively cheap mod that may serve you well is reducing the exposure of your exhaust system. Exhaust rattles are no fun. The tailpipe and under-the-frame loop on our 97s are the most vulnerable parts.

I also agree that even before the mods begin, spend whatever is necessary to baseline the maintenance, if that hasn't already been done.

There's a lot of great info on modifications in the 80-series FAQs.