what sealer on the roof seams

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kling-on

kling-on

Kool Arrow
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well I found water under the dash on the drivers side so I looked at the seal in the rain gutter ... it got big chuncks missing :mad: so I guess I need to scrape it all out and re seal :crybaby:... but has anyone done this is it just calk or should get a automotive body sealer ???? Rv roof sealer ... lookin for ideas that arnt too price cause I blow my cash on SOA parts :rolleyes::hillbilly:
 
Well, I used regular "gutter and flashing" sealer (from the big orange box store) on the roof of my pickup a year or so back and have no leaks as of yet.

I'll qualify that success by mentioning:

1 - I'm cheap and I already had a couple of tubes on hand...

2 - I'm in New England, so while it seems to stay flexible and adhere fine in the cold and moderately hot summers we have I have no idea if it will stand up to a real hot, Texas-style heat.

3 - You probably don't want to ask about my previous experiments with regular latex painters caulk... :rolleyes:

The key seems to clean the surfaces really well and don't try to seal joints on fresh paint - another bit of hard won knowledge, tempered by previous failures.

But then again the real 3M automotive body seam sealer doesn't seem to be that much more expensive.

Automotive Seam Sealer Caulk-Gray, distributed by R.S. Hughes - Industrial Distributor - Tapes, Adhesives, Abrasives, Safety, and Electronic Products

So if the sealer I've got in there now fails in the future I'll probably try the real auto-spec stuff next time.

Best of luck!

-Mike
 
Greasy Bits said:
Well, I used regular "gutter and flashing" sealer (from the big orange box store) on the roof of my pickup a year or so back and have no leaks as of yet.

I'll qualify that success by mentioning:

1 - I'm cheap and I already had a couple of tubes on hand...

2 - I'm in New England, so while it seems to stay flexible and adhere fine in the cold and moderately hot summers we have I have no idea if it will stand up to a real hot, Texas-style heat.

3 - You probably don't want to ask about my previous experiments with regular latex painters caulk... :rolleyes:

The key seems to clean the surfaces really well and don't try to seal joints on fresh paint - another bit of hard won knowledge, tempered by previous failures.

But then again the real 3M automotive body seam sealer doesn't seem to be that much more expensive.

Automotive Seam Sealer Caulk-Gray, distributed by R.S. Hughes - Industrial Distributor - Tapes, Adhesives, Abrasives, Safety, and Electronic Products

So if the sealer I've got in there now fails in the future I'll probably try the real auto-spec stuff next time.

Best of luck!

-Mike
Click to expand...

excellent writeup: you should get a 100 post count bump for that!

Thank you, for when I need that data.
 
thanks for the info and the link didnt know the right stiff was that cheap .... no question I will be usin it for that price will post pics as I go
 
Yeah, I was surprised the "real" stuff was that reasonable as well.

I had spotted the same material at a couple of other "boutique" auto restoration sites where the price was double or more?!?

After watching quite a few of these guy's videos I've picked up a lot of little tips and tricks, as well as the tools and products they use to just make the job easier. You can just about make out the part number of the 3M sealer they use, turned out to be the same as the small tube.

How to Refill a Seam Sealer Gun: How to Replace a Car Trunk | eHow.com

Besides when it's nasty cold out I have very little desire to go outside and wrench - so on the computer I go... :D

-Mike
 
Greasy Bits said:
Yeah, I was surprised the "real" stuff was that reasonable as well.

I had spotted the same material at a couple of other "boutique" auto restoration sites where the price was double or more?!?

After watching quite a few of these guy's videos I've picked up a lot of little tips and tricks, as well as the tools and products they use to just make the job easier. You can just about make out the part number of the 3M sealer they use, turned out to be the same as the small tube.

How to Refill a Seam Sealer Gun: How to Replace a Car Trunk | eHow.com

Besides when it's nasty cold out I have very little desire to go outside and wrench - so on the computer I go... :D

-Mike
Click to expand...

great link thanx

fliphkd778 said:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/139081-rain-gutter-sealing-solutions.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/20894-possible-windshield-leak.html#post2866906
Click to expand...

you are correct my bad I didnt even search ..... what a NOOB mistake:hillbilly:
 
my 60 has been leaking for the last 3 years... i should prolly fix the issue...
 
CruisinFJ60 said:
my 60 has been leaking for the last 3 years... i should prolly fix the issue...
Click to expand...

mine didnt leak till I got it "detailed" .... thats what I get for washin it after 3 or 4 years of runnin though puddles to clean her off :p
 
3m makes a seam sealer and all around body caulk. They also make a rain gutter sealer. most good paint and body supply shops have it in stock.


Dynosoar:zilla:
 
I would use the automotive "stuff"... as suggested, the 3M people seem to make all different flavors of products and their stuff is a known quality. Most body shops have been using their sfuff for a number of years now. Some products not designed for automotove use will promote rust and will not function as desired. I would only want to do the repair one time. Stay with the 3M automovtive products.
 
I have used this

trm-8500_w.jpg


And this...

3M8505.jpg


Both can be painted on...
 
I just stripped and replaced my roof gutter sealer and followed the advice from some previous threads here (Alaska's repaint?). I used inexpensive silicone adhesive sealant from the local blue big box. No leaks now and it has been raining in Houston for the last month or more.
The project took <3 hours using a pick set, flathead screwdriver and a wire brush, finishing off by wiping it all down with denatured alchohol.
I'm still hoping to get by and see you in SA, my travel has changed and I don't get over there near as often as I used too.
 
I used the 3M body seam sealer on my rain gutter a few years ago. Still working great.

Incidentally, that turned out not to be my problem. I had water on the floor, under the driver's side mat. It turned to be an unsealed hole under the front quater panel, on the firewall. It's right in the area where water that runs into the hood vents runs run the side and out the bottom.
 
I don't know factually (personally) but I've been told a few times...not to use a silicone based product on a painted surface, as the silcone will promote rust. I've not bothered to research this...but it would be worth looking into.

The body shop guys I have spoken to, only recommend 3M Seam Sealer...
 
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I too remember reading this somewhere on this forums.. but too lazy to actually research it...but enough to discourage me from using silicone based materials and going the 3M route.....
This site rocks !!!
 
Mountain Goat said:
I used the 3M body seam sealer on my rain gutter a few years ago. Still working great.

Incidentally, that turned out not to be my problem. I had water on the floor, under the driver's side mat. It turned to be an unsealed hole under the front quater panel, on the firewall. It's right in the area where water that runs into the hood vents runs run the side and out the bottom.
Click to expand...


How did you find the hole leaking in that area?
 
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