I have to replace my radiator due to a leak on the tank, I was wondering what people were using to replace the original(aftermarket(specific) OEM(source)). Thanks for all the help.
-Jay
-Jay
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Never Mind, was able to find one, Thanks for all the help.I love the site, but having checked with them and several others nobody can source me an OEM so far.
You should find one with a proven reputation of lasting 2+ decades and hundreds of thousands of miles.
What one would that be?
I bought a trad which is Toyota oem from Boulder Toyota cost 320 bucks comes with the foam, fits and will last another 24 years, why try save 100 bucks on something this vital that will last?
I bought the csf a couple years ago after breaking the small by-pass nipple off from my plastic radiator while removing the crank bolt. Never liked plastic tanks anyway.Oem
Genuine OEM Cooling System Parts for 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser Base - Olathe Toyota Parts Center
Csf all metal radiator fits all years 80 series and what I run in mine
https://www.amazon.com/CSF-2517-Radiator/dp/B000CFVM8W
I can understand that if you have someone to repair most people don't though they just keep buying the cheapest radatior they can find, then come on here and ask why it doesn't fit or why there truck is running hot, I m just a mechanic that buys once and moves to the next issueSome people perfer the all metal rads because they can be repaired easier/cheaper than oem plastic tank with aluminum fins. I'm also not a fan of the crimp on plastic tanks. I've never seen a factory one leak but I have seen multiple aftermarket ones leak brand new
I bought the csf a couple years ago after breaking the small by-pass nipple off from my plastic radiator while removing the crank bolt. Never liked plastic tanks anyway.
How long have you had yours and how well is holding up? What is your opinion/comparison concerning how well it does what it is supposed to do?
I never had a real temp gauge until after I installed the CSF so I have no reference point.
Yeah, I have no foam either but the radiator fits very close to the core support so.............. Where I live temps get above 100F regularly during summer and 110F is not unusual. At highway speed with AC blasting I have run 219F water temps on my Koso gauge for miles and miles. It's kind of weird because it will get to 219 and just stay until I slow down reducing engine load. This is only when it's really hot out. But, I see over 200F water temps during summer regularly. That's after thorough flush, complete cooling system overhaul, modded fan clutch, 50/50 mix and a bottle of Redline Water Wetter. The reason I don't sweat it is because as soon as engine load is reduce, she cools down quickly.I broke my factory radiator the exact same way. Actually I think I took out the nipple when I pulled the fan shroud and broke that as well go figure. I would say mine runs a tad cooler then before but I also switched coolants since I had no idea what was in there. The temp gauge definitely sits a tad lower. Other thing I noticed on mine was my tranny lines leaked bad like the csf hard lines were smaller then the OEM ones. Other then that it's been great, I've had it less then a year. I also like knowing that if I somehow puncture it out in no man's land that I could theoretically fix it myself, and if I want to add another row or two of fins to it then I can have that done for even better cooling. Should also be noted that I don't have the foam in place on mine and my fan shroud is half jacked up and it's never gotten hot on me like I've heard others mention.
I'm running the TYC with great results, better cooling than stock, Koyo, Denso, etc. They do appear to be a 'cheaper' build, but the results are good so far. They seem to have hit on a more efficient design for the core.Koyo are great but whatever you do, don't buy a Koyorad from CarID.com. They'll pull a bait and switch and ship you an inferior TYC radiator.