You asked what type of wheeling... For me it includes just about everything. Lots of overlanding...but also dealing with rocks in Moab or above that lsewhere. So my use is more an all-of-the-above. But whatever one's tendencies... when you need to get past a barrier...you need to get past it...and it doesn't matter what your preferred terrain is at that point. You either have the ability to beat the barrier or you might be in trouble. As a guy who is more likely to go gor it...lockers are a key capability that can be useful just about anywhere except pavement. Example... If the crazy trails that turned into a nutty late-night winch-fest happens again next year...I'll be there...
As for why lockers... ATRAC only goes so far, and can still leave hung wheels spinning....
Lockers don't cure everything, but it's a major tool to have at your disposal, and I'll use it often. There have been tons of spots where I'd have locked thing up given the choice.
I hear you on the advantages of lockers. I currently pilot a tripple-locked 100 on 34x12s and 4.88s. Lockers will give you the best shot of rolling up something. There have been a number of times that I have rolled up things effortlessly when locked that would have definitely been 'drama' with just ATRAC. That said, my main partner in crime runs an unlocked 4th Gen 4Runner. We go all the same places. He's lighter, narrower, and I've yet to see a place where he can't get. There's been times where he's pulled winch line and there's been times when I've pulled winch line. Won't say that one vehicle is necessarily better than the other. Although I might tip my hand to him just for the pure aspect of power:weight ratio. I could certainly see myself adding lockers to a 200 build some day. Was just curious how much 'improved' the 200 ATRAC was. Some of the YouTube vids make it look really super.
4.88's are to deal with a seriously heavy rig running 35's. To me, that's not even a question...except for the money to afford it right now. I don't like that my torque converter is getting a workout more than it was designed to get...and I want my gear shifts and engine braking to be more where it should be. Since we can't reprogram our computers for 35’s...the transmission ends up off due to essentially upshifting everything without the computer knowing (35's). Plus...I'd love to get my zippy acceleration back. This truck isn't designed for 35's and 8000lbs. 4.88's will greatly reduce the strain.
Not arguing with your logic here at all. 8,000 lbs (1,200 lbs over GVWR) is a feat to accomplish. I've fought the same battle but with a 4 speed. 230 hp pulling that mass around stinks! For me the debate was between 4.88s and 5.29s. 4.88s won out because it's an easier install in the 100 (5.29s require a hybrid of parts). Conventional wisdom is to gear down as weight and tire size go up. However, I'm about to go back to 4.30's and here's why: it put me in the wrong RPM band at the speeds I need to travel. If you look at the chart below, with 4.88s I can't hold 3rd gear on a climb. My whole goal was to pull hills better and I still can't hold 3rd. But what it did was push 2nd up above 4,100 rpm. Not where I want to hang out. Had I kept the 4.30s I'd have been right in the sweet spot of the power band in 2nd at 55mph. Similarly, if I'm pulling a trailer or have a headwind, it's hard for the A343F to stay locked at 2,400 rpm in 4th at 65mph. Had I kept the 4.30s I'd be in 3rd at a comfortable 3,200 rpm and would keep the trans from hunting.
I bring this up because you may have a similar situation with the AB60F ratios. With the 3.90 in 3rd I'm guessing you can hold 55mph at 2,900 rpm. With 4.88s this pushes you to 3,600 rpm in 3rd or 2,700 rpm in 4th. The 3UR may be happy pulling at 2,700 rpm. Much bigger cajones in the 5.7. Not saying that it's a good or bad idea for your truck or your mission, just sharing what I learned. You may want to look at 4.30s as well. Some good ratios there. Not sure what your highway performance is like, but 4th with 4.30s looks like it's a better chose than 5th with 4.88s.
The other item to consider is driveline speed and vibrations. It's common in the 100 to pickup a harmonic vibration in the cab between 55 and 60 when going to 4.88s due to the increased rotational speed of the driveshaft. May or not be a prob with the 200. Just something to be aware of.
Again, please don't take this as critiquing your build plans. 4.88s may be a great way to go. Just wanted to give some real-world feedback from my experience. If I keep the 100 for a few more seasons it's going to be re-geared (again) over this coming winter, going back to stock 4.30s. I will lose performance off the line and the truck won't feel as quick at stoplights. But where it really struggles it will be geared better.