Mobil1 5w-30 at 5k OCI and Mobil1 Filter every other change. Only because it's still under warranty. I will go to 8-10k after warranty.
What oil changing interval are your running?
- Thread starter Jim_Chow
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I just switched to AMSOil Series 2000 0W-30 which is tested to resist wear and thermal breakdown significantly better than even Mobil-1 SuperSyn. It's supposed to be good for up to 35,000 miles between changes under "normal" use. The AMSOil filter (EAO57) is good for 25,000 miles, so that's my goal. The oil costs almost $10/quart but if it's as good as they claim I'll only change my oil about once a year, which will leave more time for.
I'll let you know how it holds up.
Let us know how it goes. I think a UOA at 15k would be a good idea the first time around.
Blackstone UOA link
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Every 5,000 miles.
I agree.
Am I the only one running a diesel?
The factory recommended interval for my '98 1-HD FTE engine is 4500 miles but I have been running 10,000 mile intervals using Fuchs Titan Cargo 10w/40 fully synthetic long drain truck oil for the last few years. Over the last four years this has meant an oil change every eight months or so. I do change the rather small standard oil filter halfway though.
The oil remains reasonably clean and consumption is near zero over the 10,000 miles. The car has only covered 105,000 miles so far, with some heavy towing over steep terrain, but so far so good.
Someone has mentioned to me that newer build versions of mine had the oil change period officially streched to 10k miles with API CH4 dino oil. I don't know whether this is true but if it is, then I would consider stretching my interval to 15000 miles with that trick oil I use.
The factory recommended interval for my '98 1-HD FTE engine is 4500 miles but I have been running 10,000 mile intervals using Fuchs Titan Cargo 10w/40 fully synthetic long drain truck oil for the last few years. Over the last four years this has meant an oil change every eight months or so. I do change the rather small standard oil filter halfway though.
The oil remains reasonably clean and consumption is near zero over the 10,000 miles. The car has only covered 105,000 miles so far, with some heavy towing over steep terrain, but so far so good.
Someone has mentioned to me that newer build versions of mine had the oil change period officially streched to 10k miles with API CH4 dino oil. I don't know whether this is true but if it is, then I would consider stretching my interval to 15000 miles with that trick oil I use.
how do you change a filter w/o changing the oil? do you just drain it and pour it back in?
I just unscrew the old filter, discard, screw new filter on.
You should be told maybe that the oil filter for my engine is easily changed from the top of the engine bay and is positioned upsidedown with a factory drip tray to hold the small amount of oil that spills as it is unthreaded. No need to worry about the sump oil at all as this is done. Just a two minute job. If the filter was bigger I wouldn't bother but this filter was originally used by Toyota on the 2.4hi-lux diesel engine and mine is a 4.2litre lump and it would probably be too much to ask it to work for 10,000 miles. Best to be safe.
If anyone knows of a high capacity filter that will fit straight on a 4.2 diesel 1-HD FT or later FTE engine, please let me know. It has to have a central tube to prevent oil draining from the filter which is fitted with its bottom upwards.
Perhaps the newer ones with factory 10,000 mile service intervals have a bigger filter fitted at the fatory? Anyone know?
ah, well then there ya go. On the 2UZ-FE its not that easy, 
I would suggest, if nobody on here knows that is, that you just call your yota dealership and ask the parts guy about the filters....maybe the newer ones have a larger one, and you can just get one of those filters.
I would suggest, if nobody on here knows that is, that you just call your yota dealership and ask the parts guy about the filters....maybe the newer ones have a larger one, and you can just get one of those filters.
I have a document with all Toyotas sold in Europe. It contains all service intervals. For 1HD-FTE (from '98 on) the oil change interval is 15000 km or 7500 km in heavy conditions. With every oil change oil filter needs to be replaced.
I change oil after 15000km, but usually sooner (when I come from a desert trip I allways change oil in engine, diffs and gearbox).
Maybe 1HD-FTE doesn't contain over 11 liters of oil for nothing
.
Regards
Samo
I change oil after 15000km, but usually sooner (when I come from a desert trip I allways change oil in engine, diffs and gearbox).
Maybe 1HD-FTE doesn't contain over 11 liters of oil for nothing
.Regards
Samo
I have a document with all Toyotas sold in Europe. It contains all service intervals. For 1HD-FTE (from '98 on) the oil change interval is 15000 km or 7500 km in heavy conditions. With every oil change oil filter needs to be replaced.
I change oil after 15000km, but usually sooner (when I come from a desert trip I allways change oil in engine, diffs and gearbox).
Maybe 1HD-FTE doesn't contain over 11 liters of oil for nothing
Regards
Samo
15000kms is near enough the 10,000 miles currently recommended in the UK. My mid '98 vehicle was one of the first in the UK and still had the 4500 mile [7500km?] interval of the 80 series recommended in the book. It is good to know that I can even stretch the 10,000 miles by quite a way safely if needed considering I use ACEA E4 [same as mb 228.5, this one is a 100,000km] oil.
No matter how hard I use mine, and I tow a lot, the oil is not going to break down or be saturated with contaminants over only 10,000 miles.
I would still like to know if they now use a different filter to my rather small one. Mine is the same as used from 1990 on the 80 series direct injection 1HD-T and on the old indirect injection engines from 2.4 to 3.0 litre four cylinder.
I like to run 5K mile OCI using either a quality dino or synthetic. I know with Mobil 1 5w30 or 10w30 you could go 10K miles but I guess I'm to old to change my habbits.
I just switched to AMSOil Series 2000 0W-30 which is tested to resist wear and thermal breakdown significantly better than even Mobil-1 SuperSyn. It's supposed to be good for up to 35,000 miles between changes under "normal" use. The AMSOil filter (EAO57) is good for 25,000 miles, so that's my goal. The oil costs almost $10/quart but if it's as good as they claim I'll only change my oil about once a year, which will leave more time for
I'll let you know how it holds up.
I think it would be great if you did the 25K mile test and if you could do oil analysis every 5K miles on this test run I think it would protect your investment and give everyone some insight into what the limits of a good synthetic are.
I just switched to AMSOil Series 2000 0W-30 which is tested to resist wear and thermal breakdown significantly better than even Mobil-1 SuperSyn. It's supposed to be good for up to 35,000 miles between changes under "normal" use. The AMSOil filter (EAO57) is good for 25,000 miles, so that's my goal. The oil costs almost $10/quart but if it's as good as they claim I'll only change my oil about once a year, which will leave more time for
I'll let you know how it holds up.
You better go back and re-read the amsoil literature because that is not what it says. Unless all you do is drive on the freeway, you do not meet their "definition" of normal driving. Also they have a 1 year maximum interval.
There has only been one actual direct comparison of Amsoil and Mobil 1 (it was called the spacebears test). Guess what, Mobil 1 held up better in the extended interval, and that was prior to them coming out with the EP formula.
Check out the performance standards met by Mobil1 in their various viscosity grades and you will find that higher ACEA and MB standards are met by the 0w/40 than most others apart from the motorsport 15w/50. The 0w/40 is the only one approved by European manufacturers for extended drain intervals. This is nothing to do with viscosity per-se and differs by oil blender. In other words, what is true for Mobil1 is not necisserily true for other brands.
Always check the pack and go with the performance standards met by the oil within. For petrol engines, the API rating just provides a lowest acceptable specification below which an oil is unacceptable. To compare higher performance one has to use the ACEA standard or manufacturers own standards. Mind you, just because an oil meeting mb229.3 is good for up to 20,000 miles in a Mercedes engine fitted with flexible service technology does not mean it is suitable for 20,000 miles in your Land Cruiser. It just gives an indication of the relative performance quality of different oils.
Now, does either Mobil1 or Amsoil 10w/30 [for instance] meet BMW LL01, Mercedes mb229.3 or any other of the specifications met by Mobil1 0w/40? If so, it is a superb oil but can still be bettered. VW/Audi specify oils capable of up to 30,000 miles. Don't try that with your bog standard APIS? [where '?' is the latest spec] oil. Don't even try it in any light duty engine not designed for extended intervals, which is what we have in Cruisers, as such extended use has not been tested in them.
A given oil may in fact be up to any number of standards but never be tested or "approved" for that standard. The "standard" is often actually a license that must be purchased from the approving manufacturer or entity. They may require that they do the testing for fees or charge fees just to list the "standard" on a bottle. The small producers and even the majors often get around these difficulties by saying that they "recommend" a fluid for use where a certain private standard has been specified.
Comparison of UOAs of oil in service in the engine of interest will be much better for finding a suitable oil than comparing bottle labels.
www.bobistheoilguy.com
The filter on the UZ engine is above the level of the sump. You simply unscrew the filter and drain it's contents. Screw on a new filter and there you go.
There is a lot of nonsence talked about oil. The definition of a particular performance level is the highest *standard* met by an oil. Whether money changes hands to allow some standard to be advertised on the container is irrellevant. This is usually the case with API and starburst symbols which do need a license fee but almost all oils need to meet the API standard for use in engines. And yes, the oil need not be individually tested but the formula is submitted for approval along with the additive package included. In any case, as I mentioned previously, the API generally and traditionally have only set the *minimum* standard below which an oil is unacceptable for use at the time the standard is current.
For an illustration of superior oil standards and the oils that meet them, have a look at this site which is superbly maintained.
www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html
Oh ive never just changed my filter...i always drain the oil and replace the filter and put new oil in. Ive never run oil over 5,000 miles
The point of my earlier post is that this is not always the case because manufacturers will not pay to license a standard with little market relevance even if their oil would qualify to meet it. This is especially true if they have another product in their line targeted at that market (Mobile 1 European formula). It is even possible that a manufacturer could use the same product but bottle and label it differently to reduce licensing costs and allow for better segment marketing.
For example the value of the using Mercedes standards is low in the North American market because of the Mercedes' low market share and the fact that their owners are not typically DIYers. The oil producer may not chose to label the oil with the standard even if it will meet it.
The Mercedes standards appear to value higher viscosities at operating temperatures (ie mostly xw-40 weight oils). This is probably because the Mercedes engines are designed for these viscosities. The UZ engine in the 100 was designed for 5W-30 weight oils and the UOAs indicate this. It does not get superior results from oils with a higher viscosity at operating temperature (xW-40, GC 0W-30). The best UOAs from the UZ come from oils with lower operating viscosities (Mobile 1 5w-30,0W-30).
Please post up your UOA results in the FAQ UOA thread.
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I will just throw in my two cents, if you want more go read the oil FAQ in the 80 section as I have already written way to much on the issue.
API ratings are not very telling about the quality of an oil. You know when an oil meets the MB 229.5 (and now 229.51) as well as BMW LL-01, LL-04, and Porsche requirements, that it is designed to be run for extended intervals. Note the only oils that meet these standards are Group IV PAO and Group V Ester based oils.
So how does this apply in a 100 series? It gives an idea of what oils are good oils to start with. The 100 series (like the 80) has the benifits of a large sump and an engine design that is easy on oils. As such, name brand mineral oils should easily go the factory recommended 7500 mile interval. Any "synthetic" whether it be group III, IV, or V, should go 10,000-12,000 miles without an issue. Group IV & V Synthetics will likely go 15,000+ mile intervals without trouble, but until you do specific UOA's that tell you how a specific oil holds up for your driving conditions, you will not know. BTW, we don't know how M1 0w-40 will compare to the xw-30 oils in the 100, because we have not seen back to back runs with the same driver and same engine. It is likely we may see slightly lower wear rates with the 0w-40, but we don't know until we run it (typically the lowest wear rates for engines seem to be with oils that are in the 3.5-4.0 HTHS range, that is assuming they are not specifically designed for low HTHS oils, ala audi, which the Toyota engine is not).
The simplest answer for most people is to run Mobil 1 5w-30 for 10,000 mile intervals. It is widely available (including 5 quart jugs at Walmart), has shown to comfortably run longer intervals, and 10,000 mile intervals are easy to remember.
Now I will sit back and
API ratings are not very telling about the quality of an oil. You know when an oil meets the MB 229.5 (and now 229.51) as well as BMW LL-01, LL-04, and Porsche requirements, that it is designed to be run for extended intervals. Note the only oils that meet these standards are Group IV PAO and Group V Ester based oils.
So how does this apply in a 100 series? It gives an idea of what oils are good oils to start with. The 100 series (like the 80) has the benifits of a large sump and an engine design that is easy on oils. As such, name brand mineral oils should easily go the factory recommended 7500 mile interval. Any "synthetic" whether it be group III, IV, or V, should go 10,000-12,000 miles without an issue. Group IV & V Synthetics will likely go 15,000+ mile intervals without trouble, but until you do specific UOA's that tell you how a specific oil holds up for your driving conditions, you will not know. BTW, we don't know how M1 0w-40 will compare to the xw-30 oils in the 100, because we have not seen back to back runs with the same driver and same engine. It is likely we may see slightly lower wear rates with the 0w-40, but we don't know until we run it (typically the lowest wear rates for engines seem to be with oils that are in the 3.5-4.0 HTHS range, that is assuming they are not specifically designed for low HTHS oils, ala audi, which the Toyota engine is not).
The simplest answer for most people is to run Mobil 1 5w-30 for 10,000 mile intervals. It is widely available (including 5 quart jugs at Walmart), has shown to comfortably run longer intervals, and 10,000 mile intervals are easy to remember.
Now I will sit back and
