Another spot where dirt mud salt collects is the end of the cross by the sway bar links. Can confirm I've washed out like pounds of mud from that spot.
What level of rust is manageable? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter UltTrail runner
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- #22
Hi Guys, found another one. How do you think about this one? Thanks.
No.
The worst is on the rear cross member where you'll have rust problems. But you didn't take pictures there.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
I try not to post in subjective threads.
oops ....
oops ....
- Thread starter
- #26
Where is the rear cross member..... ?
Up by the rear tire is usually the worst.
The rear rocker rust, tires almost bald, that terrible exhaust patch...
It's a no from me.
The rear rocker rust, tires almost bald, that terrible exhaust patch...
It's a no from me.
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If you have to ask, then yes it is.
Basically, if you look at a vehicle and think to yourself "this looks a little out of my comfort zone, let me ask the mud gurus" then it's out of your comfort zone and you should stay away. I live in the rust belt and if it isn't 100% rust free, I walk. But I'm just picky that way because I know what a rust free one will look like in 5 years.
Basically, if you look at a vehicle and think to yourself "this looks a little out of my comfort zone, let me ask the mud gurus" then it's out of your comfort zone and you should stay away. I live in the rust belt and if it isn't 100% rust free, I walk. But I'm just picky that way because I know what a rust free one will look like in 5 years.
I have a similar situation with the frame and body.
I think I'll give my truck for repairs to the guys in our area:
I have a similar situation with the frame and body.
I think I'll give my truck for repairs to the guys in my district:
- Thread starter
- #30
Thanks for the replies. Found another one. The undercarriage is coated. But I feel the coating covered the rust and the coating is recent.
I'd trust what I can see over what was covered!
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
^ Listen to this man, he knows a thing or two about dealing with rust issues on these rigs
No to undercoating
Ziebart in my experience (living in rust belt) is a great way to hide and promote rust. The most success I have had is to wire wheel it the best you can, clean and prep surface for paint then add something like fluid film or LPS3 to the painted surface. Fluid film and LPS3 allow everything to breathe unlike ziebart or other rubberized undercoats that trap in moisture and road salt. I will not buy a vehicle with any kind of rubberized undercoating on the frame/suspension even if it was done off the line. Most aftermarket places coat everything including electrical connectors and brake line fittings making any kind of service impossible or unbearable.
On bad rust that has been deemed structurally sound I use phosphoric acid as part of paint prep to help clean everything up and "neutralize" the rust. LPS3 would be my inhibitor of choice over fluid film just for personal preference. Few coats of primer and some rustoleum rust reformer or sometimes just rust reformer without primer have produced results for me. I like to stay away from epoxy stuff like por15 because if the rust does come back epoxy tends to hide it until its too late and begins to flake off and reveal a hole in the frame plus it costs an arm and a leg. We use LPS3 and corrosionX in the aviation world, oldest aircraft in service I have seen was 1949 the corrosionX works wonders to prevent corrosion.
Even with an inhibitor applied I would still routinely wash the underbody during the winter months, LPS3 will stay put even when going head to head with a pressure washer. Reapplication is roughly every 2 years with lps3.
Hope this helps!
EDIT: If you end up using phosphoric acid do not get any of it inside the frame! Also I do not use water to wash it off, I use acetone YMMV but this works for me. Water promoted flash rust when I was testing.
On bad rust that has been deemed structurally sound I use phosphoric acid as part of paint prep to help clean everything up and "neutralize" the rust. LPS3 would be my inhibitor of choice over fluid film just for personal preference. Few coats of primer and some rustoleum rust reformer or sometimes just rust reformer without primer have produced results for me. I like to stay away from epoxy stuff like por15 because if the rust does come back epoxy tends to hide it until its too late and begins to flake off and reveal a hole in the frame plus it costs an arm and a leg. We use LPS3 and corrosionX in the aviation world, oldest aircraft in service I have seen was 1949 the corrosionX works wonders to prevent corrosion.
Even with an inhibitor applied I would still routinely wash the underbody during the winter months, LPS3 will stay put even when going head to head with a pressure washer. Reapplication is roughly every 2 years with lps3.
Hope this helps!
EDIT: If you end up using phosphoric acid do not get any of it inside the frame! Also I do not use water to wash it off, I use acetone YMMV but this works for me. Water promoted flash rust when I was testing.
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If by “coated” you mean half-assedly sprayed with a $3 rattle can of Walmart black paint, then yes, it’s definitely “coated”.
