What is this worth? (1 Viewer)

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01 LC with 255k miles, TB done 40k miles ago, 2.5" OME lift with Slee diff drop, ARB front bumper with badlands winch, SPC upper control arms, family good maintenance records. Minimal rust it seems but haven't seen in person yet.









 

JunkCrzr89

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Definitely needs work...radiator is about to pop any day now, brake fluid looks 20 years old, rust in some bad places (eg, torsion bar adjustment bolts and brackets), etc. I’d offer $8k max, but $6k would be ideal as a buyer.
 
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MJK

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I agree with @JunkCrzr89 completely - looks to need work. I'd say 8 max if you are DIY friendly, and I'd do a meticulous PPI to see what else is as overdue as that radiator.
 

flintknapper

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As mentioned it's going to need some serious base-lining.....besides the obvious things.

Agree that radiator has breathed it's last, brake fluid is filthy....as is power steering fluid. Unless you have records to suggest otherwise, you're probably looking at changing ALL fluids, some brake work, attend to various leaks. Brake booster pump motor (if original) will likely be an issue soon.

Wheel bearing repack all around.

I'd be hard pressed to offer more than 7K for that one. Honestly, I'd probably just look for something cleaner.
 
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As mentioned it's going to need some serious base-lining.....besides the obvious things.

Agree that radiator has breathed it's last, brake fluid is filthy....as is power steering fluid. Unless you have records to suggest otherwise, you're probably looking at changing ALL fluids, some brake work, attend to various leaks. Brake booster pump motor (if original) will likely be an issue soon.

Wheel bearing repack all around.

I'd be hard pressed to offer more than 7K for that one. Honestly, I'd probably just look for something cleaner.
Thank you. He is asking 10,500, he will probably not come off price much. Appreciate the advice.
 

flintknapper

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Thank you. He is asking 10,500, he will probably not come off price much. Appreciate the advice.

100 series prices have gone up over the past years and the body on that one (and probably interior) look to be fine, but as sure as you are reading this....you'll need to budget for some extensive base-lining on that one. Each market is a little different, but where I live (3 Texas Metroplex within 3 hours of me) I could take $10.5K and do better than that.

But don't let that dissuade you. Only YOU know what you are willing to pay and how much work you are willing to do (or have done) in order to have a reliable vehicle well into the future.

I am only offering my 'opinion' and suggesting you be patient and shop around.
 

ramangain

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I think a fair way to evaluate the "fair" price of that rig is to take a broad sample of prices for similar rigs (mileage, year, visual condition) - maybe 10 if you can find equivalents - and then subtract away the cost to fix issues discovered during a PPI.

This approach is at the mercy of asking prices, though, so perhaps getting similar data for recently sold rigs will put you on more solid footing. There is nothing stopping the general community from asking $25k for a rust bucket with 400k miles and no service history. Who knows, it may get there (and God help us if it does, since that means folks have lost common sense in my opinion).
 
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I’m not as negative as the others, having spent a year looking for mine, and closing the deal 6ish months ago. I think it will go for closer to $9.5-10, depending on what the maintenance history looks like.

A lot depends on what your plans are for the truck. The bumper, winch, tires, UCAs, and lift would cost you $4500 to add to a clean mall crawler. Everything pointed out by folks is pretty minor and inexpensive stuff to correct. The truck looks pretty solid overall, even the rusted areas look very surface. The interior is also clean and doesn’t need new seats.
 
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Any vehicle with a radiator that looks as bad as that one has a 9/10 chance of having an absolutely abysmal maintenance history. Prepare to chuck out $5-8k right off the bat to get caught up on maintenance/baselining.

I don't own a 100, but may be looking for one in the future, so this is a genuine question. What would "$5-8k right off the bat to get caught up on maintenance/baselining" entail?
 
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I was supposed to go look at this one coming up this weekend, but I really think Im gonna pass on it at that price. He said he had someone else first in line for it, so you may have some competition lol.
 
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I was supposed to go look at this one coming up this weekend, but I really think Im gonna pass on it at that price. He said he had someone else first in line for it, so you may have some competition lol.
I am that first person, lol. Going to look at it in an hour.
 

ramangain

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I was supposed to go look at this one coming up this weekend, but I really think Im gonna pass on it at that price. He said he had someone else first in line for it, so you may have some competition lol.
Best to look at as many in person as possible IMHO to hone your bullsh!t meter and current sense of the market
 

AlpineAccess

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I don't own a 100, but may be looking for one in the future, so this is a genuine question. What would "$5-8k right off the bat to get caught up on maintenance/baselining" entail?

I'd say $5-8k if not doing your own work, but in some cases could run up to that amount if you use all OEM parts and are very particular, even DIY.

Big chunk might go into braking if its been neglected. MC Rebuild, accumulator motor, etc. Next chunk would be if steering has been neglected (rack, pump, high pressure lines if leaking, bushings. Then cooling (radiator, new hoses (if not done), t-fittings and new hoses on back of motor). Then suspension bushings (LCA, rear upper and lower arms, track bar, etc.). Then fluids and grease: trans, diffs, t-case, wheel bearing clean/inspect/repack/pretension, etc.

If previous owner has installed a lot of aftermarket parts, plan on ending up replacing all of them prematurely - as you know Land Cruisers are designed to very high specifications and for long-life cycles on every part. Aftermarket parts by and large can't hack it, and are outlasted even by original components. Improper install can cause premature wear of other OEM parts, etc. Good example are aftermarket CV's.

Depends how nice you want it and how much it actually needs. If it needs to be perfect, you'll need to be VERY selective, and/or get lucky. If you're good with it being operational and imperfect, you'll still get hundreds of K's of use out of it and fall into the ownership group of Land Cruiser owners in every country (including the states), just not the folks on this forum who want things just-so.
 
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I didn't want to, but I had to pass. Really nice rig but a couple of Big Ticket items that I could fix myself
Howd it go? I talked to him earlier today and told him I was going to go a different direction. Did you end up grabbing it?
No. Really nice guy, but it needed too much work for what I wanted for that price. It's a nice rig though.
 

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