what is this about the CV boot screw-on clamps rubbing?

[e9999]

while I was gone for a while, I arranged for my wife to get some screw-on hose clamps on her CV boots to stop grease leakage for an urgent trip she needed to go on. Lined up a well-reviewed indep shop that put the clamps on with new grease. (The boots were still good.)
(The dealer wanted close to $1000 to deal with it.)
Apparently they put the clamps on fine. Those are clamps that have been well reviewed and extensively used here on MUD.
But the shop told my wife that they thought they may be "rubbing" at full turn.
I am surmising that they meant that the screw housing may be touching the rubber boot. Not sure. But that doesn't seem to be a big problem since there is no relative motion.
Anyway, anybody knows what this may be about before I go under and dig a bit?

 

[2001LC]

I used the clamps and crimp tool from NAPA pictured in post #1, works great, easy job, total cost $25. I feel screw clamps effects balance, leak and may rub with off road use. https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/148786-cv-boot-leak-after-lift.html

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Why don't you call the shop that put them on and ask them where they might rub?

 

[e9999]

Why don't you call the shop that put them on and ask them where they might rub?

looking for context first

 

[2001LC]

To see if rubbing:

If you have a floor jack, lift front end from center of cross member under skid plate. This will allow wheels to drop the maximum. Turn steering wheel all the way to one side, looking at clamps while rotating wheels by hand and then repeat with steering wheel turned the other direction.

Personally I prefer the NAPA crimp clamps rub or not, they stopped my leak and it is what most Toyota shops use.

 

[OregonLC]

I've been using Paul/McM clamps for a few years and no problemo. Sounds like a party-line 'that might blow up your truck' statement from a shop unfamiliar with the solution. Just make sure you use the rounded edge clamps so they won't cut the rubber boot.

The problem with the crimp clamps is that the rubber shrinks over time and the camps aren't constant-tension. Not to mention the difficulty in getting a perfect crimp. This results in looseness and grease leakage. While not a CT clamp either, the worm-drive clamps allow for tightening over time.

 

[2001LC]

Sounds like a party-line 'that might blow up your truck' statement from a shop unfamiliar with the solution.
The problem with the crimp clamps is that the rubber shrinks over time and the camps aren't constant-tension. Not to mention the difficulty in getting a perfect crimp. This results in looseness and grease leakage. .

As far as the rubber boots shrinking as OregonLC stated, well my DS (diver-side) still has the factory boots and clamps and have not leaked a drop, Toyota uses very good rubber. The crimp clamp can be further tightened as they will have a gap if installed right, but I’ve not found that necessary. Yes when off road a screw driver is more common to have available, but, a leaky boot clamp would rarely be found or cared about at that time, a torn boot is a different issue altogether.

Lined up a well-reviewed indep shop that put the clamps on with new grease. (The boots were still good.)
***But the shop told my wife that they thought they may be "rubbing" at full turn.

If possible rubbing, balance and the advice of your (well-reviewed indep shop) is not a concern; make sure your screw clamps state: ALL SS (all stainless steel). If you’ve every work on your home sprinkler system you know why this is important.

I used the clamps and crimp tool from NAPA pictured in post #1, works great, easy job, total cost $25. I feel screw clamps effects balance, leak and may rub with off road use. https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/148786-cv-boot-leak-after-lift.html

The mechanic that fist told me about the NAPA crimp clamps & tool was the most experience active Lexus mechanic in the state of Colorado, base on the Lexus “star” awarding system. He’s been my number one go-to guys for tough issue, especial with discrepancies in the FSM shop manual or tools for the job at hand. In fact he has one of the finest tool collections I’ve ever seen. His advice on the clamp, finally fix my small leak after years of trying other clamps and tools.

The $20 tool is a must to get a good even banding with the crimp clamp and is a faction of the cost charged for the FSM tool used with Toyota clamps.

Even the smallest issue concerning balancing, I pay attention too. In the old days I used on car spin balancing, something very few people have ever heard of. This took into consideration the drive-train as well as the wheel & tire balance, to get the smoothest vibration free ride possible. I’ve found in aircraft propeller both remote control and full size aircraft, balancing of not only the prop but also the hub very important, every detail made a difference. Balancing was also a consideration for me in choosing crimp over screw clamp, as the screw camp is obviously heaver on one side than the crimp clamp although it is off slightly too, opposing every other clamp helps a bit. Yes this is a small difference, but, a difference. I’m so particular about the balancing of my TLC. I found and use one of the few shop in Colorado that have a road force balance machine. I do have a smooth ride.

 

[cc93cruiser]

*semi jack* anybody here know what the cv boot kit consists of? Is it just the rubber boots?

 

[jemsec]

Boots, grease and clamps. If they're Toyota parts.