What is the PROPER way to recondition a 3B engine

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"I polished the valve cover and a few other parts (exhaust) of a 2F engine to give them a 'SHOW' car look. However, when I tried to sell the parts, the audience advised me that by polishing them, I removed the special factory coating that helps the parts not to heat up.

My question is how to prepare the engine with a shiny look. Steps, videos, or links will be greatly appreciated."

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When you say "recondition" that makes me think more about the inside of the engine rather than the outside.

Outside, there's aren't too many things to worry about.
The approach depends if the motor is in the truck or stripped down on the bench.

Determine the worst think about the engine (visually) and deal with it. Then repeat.
Whether that's painting parts, fitting new pipes and leads, or polishing shiny metal. Depends how much time and money you have
 
Lipstick on a pig so to speak, why bother - its still a pig.

Getting rid of heat is good for engines. Surface area is important - rough has way more of that than a polished one has. Special coating to resist heating, doubtful in existence back in the 70's on cars, they sure as hell didn't have an working rust prevention like they have now. Back in the 60's some guy chrome plated everything in the engine bay he could. It would overheat very quickly and was unusable, that's why you don't see chrome engines..

On the other hand I am a big supporter of make it yours and not a purest.

I have buffed hundreds of firearms for re-bluing, its sort of a black art. Many factors come into play from choice of the wheel, polishing compound, how much pressure you apply to holding the part to the wheel and for how long. Even with the lightest pressure using the finest compound on the softest wheel can can "drag out a screw hole" in nothing flat; and its very expensive to put that metal back.

My favorite Harley paste was Happich Simichrome back in the 60's - I'm surprised they still make and sell that stuff.
 

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