I have looked til I am about to pull my hair out. Can someone please help. I am replacing compressor, dryer, valve and cleaning system.
Thanks
Thanks
What is refrigerant and oil volume for Fj60 (134a) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter IronhorseFj
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #3
I have vacuum pump and manifold gauge and freon. Would like to do myself if I could just find the volumes.
Thanks
R12
1.3 - 1.8 lbs US
(charged to 85 - 90% of original capacity if switching to r134a)
So thats about 1.6 lbs on the high end
Oil 5.2 - 6.2 oz US
Numbers via AllData
1.3 - 1.8 lbs US
(charged to 85 - 90% of original capacity if switching to r134a)
So thats about 1.6 lbs on the high end
Oil 5.2 - 6.2 oz US
Numbers via AllData
- Thread starter
- #5
Thank you so much!!!
For the stock R12 system, what type of compressor oil is to be used ? I assume it is NOT PAG oil as that is for R134a systems.
R-12 systems used mineral oil. In the old days of CFC's & HCFC's (R-12, R-22, R-502, etc) mineral oil was miscible with all of them. The change to HFC's, (R-134a, R-410A, and numerous others) led to the use of PAG and POE lubricants. The difference is not compatibility, it is miscibility.
In a small system like an auto AC system or refrigerator the miscibility makes little difference. It matters in large systems such as a supermarket because the oil can get trapped in the long suction lines.
Do you, or will you have a thread on here describing your process, trials and tribulations? I also have stock A/C system with compressor and I would like to do the job myself as well.
g-man
SILVER Star
When you go to charge the system pull your choke out a bit and make sure your rpms are up around high idle (1800rpms). There is an a/c amplifier blue dial under the glove box. This is supposed to cut the compressor off below 600 to 700 rpms. If it is set wrong or you have your truck idling low your compressor may not come on. I did mine about 1 1/2 years ago. See 84 chassis and body fsm AC35.
I have the A/C FSM for my 83 FJ60, hopefully this will add to your post about the amplifier:
Here are some snapshots of the A/C FSM that may help with those volumes. Note that it seems you could get refrigerant in either the gaseous or liquid state. Also, the method to evacuate the system per the FSM? - jiat let it out into the atmosphere! Oh how tomes have changed.
Great! Thanks fjdgk!
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
I've skimmed through this Toyota publication getting the A/C components ready to install in my '86 FJ60 with 3FE, and converting it to R134a:
I'll dig into it in more detail mid-week, the R134a manifold and vacuum pump I ordered will be delivered on Wednesday. Let the fun begin.
BTW, a copy is available here:
1986 Toyota Air Conditioning Fundamentals and Repairs Original
Well worth the $24.00 IMO.
I'll dig into it in more detail mid-week, the R134a manifold and vacuum pump I ordered will be delivered on Wednesday. Let the fun begin.
BTW, a copy is available here:
1986 Toyota Air Conditioning Fundamentals and Repairs Original
Well worth the $24.00 IMO.
Last edited:
FYI r12 is still available..
Since you are switching to R134a make sure to replace all the O-rings, if you are reusing the compressor make sure you completely drain it and don't add all the oil in the compressor make sure to split it up. Since you decided to do it yourself run the vacuum overnight if you can or at least a minimum of 4 hours and holds a vacuum. I prefer charging on low side and let the engine run above 1k rpm.
g-man
SILVER Star
FWIW...I had some problems disconnecting the coupling of the dryer line from the condenser on the passenger side front of the condenser. this is a female steel fitting that fits on the aluminum male thread that is part of the condenser. The two dissimilar metals welded themselves together. I stripped it trying to get it loose. Afterward I disconnected the short line from the dryer, put it in a vice and used map gas to melt the aluminum out of the steel fitting. I was able to reuse the fitting and the line. Maybe a little heat to the fitting before wrenching would help to loosen.
old thread - I'm in the process of doing the 134 switch and all is going ok. but how do you 'completely drain all the oil from the compressor'? I removed it and tried 'dumping it out' but no oil came out. I really don't want to take it all apart, but I will if I have to.
Is it unsafe to just add pag over the mineral oil? Is it a must to take it all apart and reseal it?
I've read alot of mud stories about people literally just changing the ports and adding 134 and voila. well i'm def changing the R/D, o-rings, exp valve, pressure sensor, and clean out the evap and condensor. just not sure about how much to worry about the compressor
thanks,
jay
Dekeman
SILVER Star
Did you ever get an answer? Also changing everything out to refill for 134.
My new Denso compressor came with mineral oil for R12, do I just turn compressor upside down to dump the oil, then add Pag 46?
My new Denso compressor came with mineral oil for R12, do I just turn compressor upside down to dump the oil, then add Pag 46?
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
That's what I did.
Hey sorry for late reply. Yeah I just tried to dump it out- and none came out. I refitted everything as I said above, filled with the system with r134/pag. And it works just fine. My ‘car AC guy’ filled it to the ‘correct pressures’….but did not tell me the quantity….
. So sorry about that. Hope it all works for you!
. So sorry about that. Hope it all works for you!
