What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (43 Viewers)

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if that is metal tape you will have dimples in your bedliner.... ask me how i know...
How do you know?😂 It’s actually gorilla 🦍 tape, I put it there to keep moisture and mud out. What do you suggest using?
 
Thanks for the input. I spent probably an HR going back and forth with the ironman suspension, and which to get. I'm certainly leaning towards ironman, I really just want to be sure it will have a smooth ride on the highway. Some folks said ome knocks your teeth out, and is quite firm which steered me away from that. I have no problem with firm, my e92 has extremely firm suspension, but for the purposes of the lx, I do want it to be relatively smooth. I contemplated even going with oem LC suspension, but would prefer at least a small lift. As of now I'm going back and forth between pulling the trigger on ironman or piecing out OEM.
Always here to answer any questions you may have!
 
well radiator broke, p/s leak, fixed those, oil change, blah blah blah. $1950 of non fun s***.

Domestic cfx75 showed up, ordering a redarc bcdc, solar, lifepo4 138ah battery.

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Just sitting at home minding my own business (I was a little bored really) when I get a couple missed calls and few text messages from one of my employees. Here is a screenshot of our text convo:
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It was about 35 minutes from my house in the Foothills of the San Fernando Valley. He was about 2 miles from the road. Never been on a dirt road before, much less off-roading. He was stuck on a very steep fire road with a lot of loose over hard surface. He was stuck in like 1/2 deep sandy gravel. 😂. With his *ahem* skills and hardware, he did not stand a chance of getting himself up that hill. Attached are a few s***ty pics of the recovery and the beer he gave me to drink in the hope that I would stop laughing at him and just tug him out. I did not stop laughing and jabbing, but it was pretty short lived because it only took 10 minutes to tug him up the hill, including the hook up process. View attachment 2588629
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Enjoy! 😎

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This story reminds me of a buddy from the Land Rover Club that went to Flag Pole with us on his Honda CRV... He made it to the top. Don't thing the clutch made it though. :rofl:

I might have some pictures in the server.
 
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upgraded from '00 LC to '06 LX -- that iddy bit of hp really makes a difference :) . bit the bullet on the tesla style radio (even after reading 30+ pages on that forum post!)...has its kinks but i'm liking it so far -- just have to figure out this background hissing/static noise that comes from the radio/apple car play etc -- audio guy will have fun with it next week:bounce:

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upgraded from '00 LC to '06 LX -- that iddy bit of hp really makes a difference :) . bit the bullet on the tesla style radio (even after reading 30+ pages on that forum post!)...has its kinks but i'm liking it so far -- just have to figure out this background hissing/static noise that comes from the radio/apple car play etc -- audio guy will have fun with it next week:bounce:

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Where did you get it done?
 
Installing the Tesla radio is not that bad. The hardest parts is getting the rear camera working.
Yea they couldn’t get the factory camera to run so they just did a separate one — all instructions were in chinese :(
 
Started working on restoring rear elocker diff and front diff with ARB air locker.

Bought an elocker rear axle and front diff with ARB air locker from a wrecked 1998 100 series for $1200 shipped last year. I was told they were 4.30. I originally was going to regear to 4.88 but decided against it due to cost.

I started working on the diffs this week and I found some good and bad.

The good:
nitro gears 4.88 were already installed. This was a huge surprise.
I disassembled the elocker and everything was clean and functions normally
ARB locker in front diff seems to work

The bad:
Looks like the pinion in the front diff got loose at some point and was making contact with the carrier. Looks like it was fixed because there is no excessive play and it doesn't make contact anymore.
20210220_114106.jpg

The front diff cover didn't have the hole drilled for the airline bulkhead fitting so it looks like I have to extend the copper line in order to use it.

The rear diff also had a bent companion flange that I replaced.
20210220_115646.jpg


Any advice or insight would be greatly appreciated

I am considering taking both 3rds to a reputable offroad toyota shop to have checked out. I have the oem repair manual and they both seem good but the marks on the carrier threw me for a loop.
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They are both going into this 2001 100
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Started working on restoring rear elocker diff and front diff with ARB air locker.

Bought an elocker rear axle and front diff with ARB air locker from a wrecked 1998 100 series for $1200 shipped last year. I was told they were 4.30. I originally was going to regear to 4.88 but decided against it due to cost.

I started working on the diffs this week and I found some good and bad.

The good:
nitro gears 4.88 were already installed. This was a huge surprise.
I disassembled the elocker and everything was clean and functions normally
ARB locker in front diff seems to work

The bad:
Looks like the pinion in the front diff got loose at some point and was making contact with the carrier. Looks like it was fixed because there is no excessive play and it doesn't make contact anymore.View attachment 2591124
The front diff cover didn't have the hole drilled for the airline bulkhead fitting so it looks like I have to extend the copper line in order to use it.

The rear diff also had a bent companion flange that I replaced.
View attachment 2591150

Any advice or insight would be greatly appreciated

I am considering taking both 3rds to a reputable offroad toyota shop to have checked out. I have the oem repair manual and they both seem good but the marks on the carrier threw me for a loop.
View attachment 2591148

They are both going into this 2001 100View attachment 2591145
The heavens shine down upon your cruiser and the angels sing “35s, 35s, time for 35s”
 
I have not. How do you do that? By the way the ‘rough’ part of the idle is when at a red light and happens intermittently every 10 or 15 seconds. It’s in between a stutter and a hiccup that happens for about 2 seconds and goes awa

I have not. How do you do that? By the way the ‘rough’ part of the idle is when at a red light and happens intermittently every 10 or 15 seconds. It’s in between a stutter and a hiccup that happens for about 2 seconds and goes away
You would need a fuel pressure gauge with an end that will connect to your fuel rail, I"ve even left them attached, and ran the gauge so it rests on the lower part of the windshield, use duct tape, so when your driving you can see if the pressure is constant. see pic attached of gauge

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