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Out of curiosity, for those that insist on installing new UCAs with their lift, did you run your trucks with stock UCAs before determining new ones were needed? What detrimental driving behavior should you look for to make that determination?
I'm at about 12k miles on my lift with stock UCAs and it seems to be driving fine, with even tire wear. I have had an intermittent slight KDSS lean, however that is unrelated to UCAs and may now be corrected with a recent install of KDSS spacers in the rear.
I got mine re-aligned yesterday and they got it much closer to spec on the caster. Seems to drive fine. They pointed out that my lca’s need new bushings soon. If Im pulling apart the front end again to do that Id def spend the extra $500 on UCA’s. I’ll probably do both in the fall.Out of curiosity, for those that insist on installing new UCAs with their lift, did you run your trucks with stock UCAs before determining new ones were needed? What detrimental driving behavior should you look for to make that determination?
I'm at about 12k miles on my lift with stock UCAs and it seems to be driving fine, with even tire wear. I have had an intermittent slight KDSS lean, however that is unrelated to UCAs and may now be corrected with a recent install of KDSS spacers in the rear.
Not sure on that. They are required to hit the exact center on caster but they got mine in spec without uca’s and it drives fine. Ironman said you don't need them below 3” lift. I’ll probably do them when I do the lowers just becuase Id replace the uppers anyway and why not use corrected ones to make it easier to align.Saying that one would insist on UCA's is something I don't understand, they are required for the lift to be aligned... as he's found out. The question makes it sound like tires are optional on wheels.
Not sure on that. They are required to hit the exact center on caster but they got mine in spec without uca’s and it drives fine. Ironman said you don't need them below 3” lift. I’ll probably do them when I do the lowers just becuase Id replace the uppers anyway and why not use corrected ones to make it easier to align.
As I learned over the last few days, there are good and bad alignment shops. For the shop I went to left it pulling to the right. Second shop dialed in perfectly even though they couldn’t hit the exact center on Castor. Uca’s would have made it easy for any shop to get it perfect, but a good shop can make it so it drives the same if they take their time.
Yep. Id say its not required but desired : )Up to you, tons of ways to do things and the outcomes vary.
Yep. Id say its not required but desired : )
The biggest motivator to add the UCA's is twitchy handling at high speed, and requiring constant attention to the steering wheel to keep to the center of the freeway lane. I drove mine for quite a while with OEM UCA's, and it was "acceptable" at the lower end of the caster spec, but not "ideal". I put some freedom UCA's on, and it's MUCH better. I have a post on here with the caster numbers you can compare to before and after (here). If you don't do long freeway drives, and are happy with how it handles, rock on!
Numbers.The biggest motivator to add the UCA's is twitchy handling at high speed, and requiring constant attention to the steering wheel to keep to the center of the freeway lane. I drove mine for quite a while with OEM UCA's, and it was "acceptable" at the lower end of the caster spec, but not "ideal". I put some freedom UCA's on, and it's MUCH better. I have a post on here with the caster numbers you can compare to before and after (here). If you don't do long freeway drives, and are happy with how it handles, rock on!
Do you know what the specification for your GX are for toe, camber and caster? I don't know off the top of my head if those are good numbers your showing.
Was that the first shop? Or the final one? I would think that at less than 1° it would be pretty twitchy at speed. Get it on the I-10 at 80mph and take your hands off the wheel. Does it track straight, or immediately want to drift?
The range onscreen is set for the gx. If you notice, the center is not 0 in any axis. The large numbers are how far out it is. So my caster is .9 and 1.5 out. The rest is within .1 degree.Do you know what the specification for your GX are for toe, camber and caster? I don't know off the top of my head if those are good numbers your showing.
Second shop. Don't have the first handy. Got a shoot in scottsdale tomorrow so Ill see how it handles on the freeway.Was that the first shop? Or the final one? I would think that at less than 1° it would be pretty twitchy at speed. Get it on the I-10 at 80mph and take your hands off the wheel. Does it track straight, or immediately want to drift?