What Do I Need to Do After Lifting My GX460? (2 Viewers)

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You absolutely need UCA's to get the required caster so the truck tracks properly.

I used SPC's

Out of curiosity, for those that insist on installing new UCAs with their lift, did you run your trucks with stock UCAs before determining new ones were needed? What detrimental driving behavior should you look for to make that determination?

I'm at about 12k miles on my lift with stock UCAs and it seems to be driving fine, with even tire wear. I have had an intermittent slight KDSS lean, however that is unrelated to UCAs and may now be corrected with a recent install of KDSS spacers in the rear.
 
Out of curiosity, for those that insist on installing new UCAs with their lift, did you run your trucks with stock UCAs before determining new ones were needed? What detrimental driving behavior should you look for to make that determination?

I'm at about 12k miles on my lift with stock UCAs and it seems to be driving fine, with even tire wear. I have had an intermittent slight KDSS lean, however that is unrelated to UCAs and may now be corrected with a recent install of KDSS spacers in the rear.

Saying that one would insist on UCA's is something I don't understand, they are required for the lift to be aligned... as he's found out. The question makes it sound like tires are optional on wheels.
 
Out of curiosity, for those that insist on installing new UCAs with their lift, did you run your trucks with stock UCAs before determining new ones were needed? What detrimental driving behavior should you look for to make that determination?

I'm at about 12k miles on my lift with stock UCAs and it seems to be driving fine, with even tire wear. I have had an intermittent slight KDSS lean, however that is unrelated to UCAs and may now be corrected with a recent install of KDSS spacers in the rear.
I got mine re-aligned yesterday and they got it much closer to spec on the caster. Seems to drive fine. They pointed out that my lca’s need new bushings soon. If Im pulling apart the front end again to do that Id def spend the extra $500 on UCA’s. I’ll probably do both in the fall.

They did say the adjustable panhard bar was great and allowed them to get it perfect in the rear. They pointed out that the last place that tried to allign it broke one of the frame tabs for the lca cams and it will have to be welded back. Anyone had that happen? (See pic)

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Saying that one would insist on UCA's is something I don't understand, they are required for the lift to be aligned... as he's found out. The question makes it sound like tires are optional on wheels.
Not sure on that. They are required to hit the exact center on caster but they got mine in spec without uca’s and it drives fine. Ironman said you don't need them below 3” lift. I’ll probably do them when I do the lowers just becuase Id replace the uppers anyway and why not use corrected ones to make it easier to align.

As I learned over the last few days, there are good and bad alignment shops. First shop I went to left it pulling to the right. Second shop dialed in perfectly even though they couldn’t hit the exact center on Castor. Uca’s would have made it easy for any shop to get it perfect, but a good shop can make it so it drives the same if they take their time.
 
Not sure on that. They are required to hit the exact center on caster but they got mine in spec without uca’s and it drives fine. Ironman said you don't need them below 3” lift. I’ll probably do them when I do the lowers just becuase Id replace the uppers anyway and why not use corrected ones to make it easier to align.

As I learned over the last few days, there are good and bad alignment shops. For the shop I went to left it pulling to the right. Second shop dialed in perfectly even though they couldn’t hit the exact center on Castor. Uca’s would have made it easy for any shop to get it perfect, but a good shop can make it so it drives the same if they take their time.

Up to you, tons of ways to do things and the outcomes vary.
 
The biggest motivator to add the UCA's is twitchy handling at high speed, and requiring constant attention to the steering wheel to keep to the center of the freeway lane. I drove mine for quite a while with OEM UCA's, and it was "acceptable" at the lower end of the caster spec, but not "ideal". I put some freedom UCA's on, and it's MUCH better. I have a post on here with the caster numbers you can compare to before and after (here). If you don't do long freeway drives, and are happy with how it handles, rock on!
 
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The biggest motivator to add the UCA's is twitchy handling at high speed, and requiring constant attention to the steering wheel to keep to the center of the freeway lane. I drove mine for quite a while with OEM UCA's, and it was "acceptable" at the lower end of the caster spec, but not "ideal". I put some freedom UCA's on, and it's MUCH better. I have a post on here with the caster numbers you can compare to before and after (here). If you don't do long freeway drives, and are happy with how it handles, rock on!

This. You put into words what I mean about tracking properly, A+
 
One last thing about UCA's is that they also help with suspension travel. Not absolutely sure on this but depending upon what shock/spring setup you have, in extreme droop the stock UCA can hit the springs and shocks.
 
ok, may look at replacing these when my stock UCA bushings go out. My truck seems to be driving ok for now so no urgent need to upgrade them just yet.

Thanks all for the info.
 
My GX drives fantastic with the Ironman UCAs. Much like the OP, the first alignment I got was decent....second alignment (from the same shop....) was much better.

Regarding the alignment cam tabs, they are known weak points. Marlin Crawler sells weld-in reinforcements for the cam tabs and LCA mounts for around $130. Next time I pull of a LCA for something I am going to add in those reinforcements, as the overall LCA mounting in the 120 and 150 platform seems kind of weak, the reinforcements are cheap, and look to be an easy install job.
 
The biggest motivator to add the UCA's is twitchy handling at high speed, and requiring constant attention to the steering wheel to keep to the center of the freeway lane. I drove mine for quite a while with OEM UCA's, and it was "acceptable" at the lower end of the caster spec, but not "ideal". I put some freedom UCA's on, and it's MUCH better. I have a post on here with the caster numbers you can compare to before and after (here). If you don't do long freeway drives, and are happy with how it handles, rock on!
Numbers.

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Was that the first shop? Or the final one? I would think that at less than 1° it would be pretty twitchy at speed. Get it on the I-10 at 80mph and take your hands off the wheel. Does it track straight, or immediately want to drift?
 
Here's the specs and alignment history of my rig.

Caster spec 2.6-4.1 deg.

- Post lift with old alignment settings, with OEM arms and settings L 1.4 deg. R 1.4 deg. - I didn't own the rig here, so can't comment on drivability.

- Post lift, OEM arms, after alignment L 2.3 deg. R 2.5 deg. "Acceptable" handling but a tad "twitchy" on the freeway. Can't really take hands off wheel.

-Post Freedom UCA'S, pre alignment L 5.1 deg . R 5.5 deg. (the difference between this line and the one above is where I'm assuming the 3 deg. correction.) Noticeably heavy steering.

-Post Freedom UCA'S, post alignment L 3.6 deg. R 3.8 deg. Excellent handling!
 
Do you know what the specification for your GX are for toe, camber and caster? I don't know off the top of my head if those are good numbers your showing.
The range onscreen is set for the gx. If you notice, the center is not 0 in any axis. The large numbers are how far out it is. So my caster is .9 and 1.5 out. The rest is within .1 degree.
 
Was that the first shop? Or the final one? I would think that at less than 1° it would be pretty twitchy at speed. Get it on the I-10 at 80mph and take your hands off the wheel. Does it track straight, or immediately want to drift?
Second shop. Don't have the first handy. Got a shoot in scottsdale tomorrow so Ill see how it handles on the freeway.
 
Just for a comparison here's mine after the lift install with SPC's. Tracks very well with the -12 offset wheels and 285's, in fact I believe it's a more confidence inspiring drive vs. the stock setup.

IMG_3070.jpg
 

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