What did you do with your Tundra or Sequoia this weekend? (10 Viewers)

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Snagged a real nice one-owner 17 Cement Pro, 40K miles. Actually I stole
It lol. Awesome manager at a Toyota store in Arlington Tx. Gave me an amazing deal.
I missed the 17 Barcelona Pro. I hope my buddy @ikarus is enjoying the power adder.
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Spent ~week fabricating fridge and secondary battery support for hitch basket, etc for wife's 2022 Sequoia (ole good V8). Loaded it up for the family camping trip. Made maybe 15 minutes, one of the kids farted, cracked down the hatch window and could not bring it up. The glass moves down, but not up.

Returned back, took the hatch door apart, could not diagnose the problem in an ~hour. Spent another two hours moving everything into my trusty 2019 Tundra. Driving 3 kids 500+ miles on the rear bench of DC truck is a nightmare.

Got back home yesterday, used my lab power supply to drive the glass up (motor works), so that the wifie could use her Sequoia while I'm out in the woods, healing family camping mental trauma. Took the switch out and apart, only to find it is a dumb mechanical device with couple of resistors and LED. Switch is good, motor is good, then it must be either a wiring harness or ECU mounted on the hatch, right?

Found the diagnostics step-by-step in the Volume 7 of 35 lbs of 2011 Sequoia repair manual. Highlighted the problem I found. I still have a week of PTO left, so facepalm imprints still have some time to heal...

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@vtl that’s brutal lmfao!

I’m polling the audience to see what y’all think of this trade.

I have my 1993 FZJ80 listed for sale for break even at $10,9xx. 290k miles, factory lockers, no rust, winch bumper, winch, new tires, ome stock height springs, new shocks, fresh hoses, all good except burns a little oil. Paint faded, windshield cracked, sunroof doesn’t work. Blah blah blah.

So I found a 2010 tundra 4x4 TRD Rock Warrior crew cab. I want to replace my 2008 4x4 DC Tundra with a crew cab because I have three kids (9, 7, & 5). Don’t really prefer the sequoia over the truck, so that’s not an option right now. The catch is that the 2010 RW Tundra needs a head gasket. It’s listed for $7k, so I would trade and he would throw cash on top.


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@vtl that’s brutal lmfao!

I’m polling the audience to see what y’all think of this trade.

I have my 1993 FZJ80 listed for sale for break even at $10,9xx. 290k miles, factory lockers, no rust, winch bumper, winch, new tires, ome stock height springs, new shocks, fresh hoses, all good except burns a little oil. Paint faded, windshield cracked, sunroof doesn’t work. Blah blah blah.

So I found a 2010 tundra 4x4 TRD Rock Warrior crew cab. I want to replace my 2008 4x4 DC Tundra with a crew cab because I have three kids (9, 7, & 5). Don’t really prefer the sequoia over the truck, so that’s not an option right now. The catch is that the 2010 RW Tundra needs a head gasket. It’s listed for $7k, so I would trade and he would throw cash on top.


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CrewCab for kids - yes (DoubleCab is really tough). Head gasket - no. I think there's a problem with the deformed block that leads to the blown gasket. New gasket won't last long. The youtube guy can keep saying it's all about old coolant, but no way on Earth that can happen and leave no acidic damage evidence.

I somewhat regret I've got a DC Tundra. 6.5 bed is good, and I slept in there in the woods for quite some time (wind cover is a big deal even in negative temps and no heating), but I relocated my sleeping rig to the cabin recently and would appreciate more space and comfort for the kids now.

Sequoia is hands down a winner in terms of the long family trip. Just in a different league. If your property has a place for trailer, for 3+ kids I would get a Sequoia and do just the trailer when needed.

In any case, do not buy a truck with the blown MLS head gasket. MLS gaskets last forever, it's always the block that causes MLS gasket problems.
 
CrewCab for kids - yes (DoubleCab is really tough). Head gasket - no. I think there's a problem with the deformed block that leads to the blown gasket. New gasket won't last long. The youtube guy can keep saying it's all about old coolant, but no way on Earth that can happen and leave no acidic damage evidence.

I somewhat regret I've got a DC Tundra. 6.5 bed is good, and I slept in there in the woods for quite some time (wind cover is a big deal even in negative temps and no heating), but I relocated my sleeping rig to the cabin recently and would appreciate more space and comfort for the kids now.

Sequoia is hands down a winner in terms of the long family trip. Just in a different league. If your property has a place for trailer, for 3+ kids I would get a Sequoia and do just the trailer when needed.

In any case, do not buy a truck with the blown MLS head gasket. MLS gaskets last forever, it's always the block that causes MLS gasket problems.
Thank you for the advice! Maybe a good case for a replacement engine from a low mileage wrecked rig.
 
HGs on 5.7's are a brutal job, I'd pass. You can find plenty of solid Tundras (albeit maybe not RW's) around $10k.
Yeah, after more consideration and the advice on here… I’m just going to hold out for the right one. My real wish list is an 08-13 limited or platinum super crew. I had a 2008 sequoia limited before and I prefer towing and driving with the truck.
 
Spent ~week fabricating fridge and secondary battery support for hitch basket, etc for wife's 2022 Sequoia (ole good V8). Loaded it up for the family camping trip. Made maybe 15 minutes, one of the kids farted, cracked down the hatch window and could not bring it up. The glass moves down, but not up.

Returned back, took the hatch door apart, could not diagnose the problem in an ~hour. Spent another two hours moving everything into my trusty 2019 Tundra. Driving 3 kids 500+ miles on the rear bench of DC truck is a nightmare.

Got back home yesterday, used my lab power supply to drive the glass up (motor works), so that the wifie could use her Sequoia while I'm out in the woods, healing family camping mental trauma. Took the switch out and apart, only to find it is a dumb mechanical device with couple of resistors and LED. Switch is good, motor is good, then it must be either a wiring harness or ECU mounted on the hatch, right?

Found the diagnostics step-by-step in the Volume 7 of 35 lbs of 2011 Sequoia repair manual. Highlighted the problem I found. I still have a week of PTO left, so facepalm imprints still have some time to heal...

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HAHAHAAHA!! Thanks for sharing. We've all done something like that.

It is odd that it will go down but not up like that. Maybe a safety system? I'll try in my Tundra, but I'm 99% sure none of the windows will not go down or up. I know in my RX350 they all work normally from the driver's door switches with the lock switch on. So, it's not consistent between Toyota models.
 
HAHAHAAHA!! Thanks for sharing. We've all done something like that.

It is odd that it will go down but not up like that. Maybe a safety system? I'll try in my Tundra, but I'm 99% sure none of the windows will not go down or up. I know in my RX350 they all work normally from the driver's door switches with the lock switch on. So, it's not consistent between Toyota models.
Maybe the Sequoia has an interior air quality sensor and it actually let the hatch window to go down (the kid farted, remember? ;) )

In any case, departing late and tired is always a mistake. Would it happen the next morning I would be able to diagnose it properly. I think.
 

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