DesertLake
SILVER Star
I'm running one of those canisters, it's cheap crap but works. I can't remember the part number. Actually I've had two because one of the fittings snapped off the first one while I was moving the hose.
Builds What did you do with your cruiser today?
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Installing the new turbo. Also, moved the EGT probe to before the turbo instead of the downpipe.
Tony_Farson
Club President Emeritus, Battle Born Cruisers
No pics... But I installed a new idler pulley and idler bolt for my A/C. Now I got cold air again!
I spotted a problem though... The driver side motor mount nut backed itself almost all the way off. I gave it an 1 ugga dugga for now and will torque them all down next weekend.
I spotted a problem though... The driver side motor mount nut backed itself almost all the way off. I gave it an 1 ugga dugga for now and will torque them all down next weekend.
Did a compression test. Spec is 350-498, with a maximum differential of 71psi. Not perfect, but I’ll take it. I do have plans to “freshen up” the engine in the next couple years.
Pre-turbo is always best. Low comp on both rear holes would concern me that you've got a head gasket issue. Might go along with a heat management problem.
The old aftermarket exhaust just had a bung welded in for the probe. I never liked it post turbo. The head was fully rebuilt, have paperwork, 30k km ago in Japan, but I had a catch can baffle failure. I’ve learned that these engines will “gunk” up the intake valves (5,6 being the worst) with a stock pcv, or a poor catch can. I’m not to worried about it yet. When we drove it to Oregon in 100+* heat, it never warmed up past 212. I was pushing it pretty hard too.
Tony_Farson
Club President Emeritus, Battle Born Cruisers
Many of the guys in the club including myself have used Douglas Machine Services down in Gardnerville. Chris is the owner now that his pop died, but he's been running the show for several years. Good dude, great prices, and outstanding work. He's booked about a year out now from what I hear, but he knows his way around Toyota diesels and gassers.
If it carbons up #5-6, that could easily be your missing psi. Anything from a layer of carbon on the valve seat to gummed up rings. Diesels don't get fuel wash across the intake valve or into the cylinder wall where it can ungum the rings like a gas motor. I have used Marvel Mystery Oil in the past with great success on unsticking old engines, both diesel and gas. I'll warn you though, the road draft tube vapors are pungent as the oils are very aromatic in heavy doses.
The good thing though, is that it will clean baked on, caked on sludge and carbon off better than anything short of solvent and a brush. The bad thing is, your first treatment of a high mileage engine you have to monitor the oil filter a little more. When you start suspending a lot of garbage in the oil, the filter media can fill up quick.
The good thing though, is that it will clean baked on, caked on sludge and carbon off better than anything short of solvent and a brush. The bad thing is, your first treatment of a high mileage engine you have to monitor the oil filter a little more. When you start suspending a lot of garbage in the oil, the filter media can fill up quick.
I’ve already cleaned up the sticky injectors using a qt of ATF in every tank. The engine has 171k kms on it, but it sat for over 10 years in a warehouse waiting to be sold at auction. It was a show truck for Clarion Audio for the first 10 years of its life also. I’m thinking that maybe just some regular use might loosen it up a little bit. I’m using Delo for now, but I’m at the bottom of the spec for oil pressure at hot idle. I’ve already changed the rod bearings and plastiguaged them, ~ 0.020”. One of the reasons for wanting to freshen it up is to tighten the bearing clearances to get a little bit more oil pressure. Cylinder bores looked great, and still had cross hatching.
Using it regularly and hard will help. Diesels hate puttering along, they need to be exercised. It could be carboned and gummed completely up.
ATF has some detergents but a dedicated cleaner is best. There are some good and some bad. Stanadyne makes good stuff. Amsoil does too. If your cam bearings are worn or main bearings, you can use thicker oil, especially in the summer here with the heat. The oil pump bypass could be gummed up as well.
If your bearing clearance was .002, your fine. If it was .020, it should be hammering and probably won't last long.
ATF has some detergents but a dedicated cleaner is best. There are some good and some bad. Stanadyne makes good stuff. Amsoil does too. If your cam bearings are worn or main bearings, you can use thicker oil, especially in the summer here with the heat. The oil pump bypass could be gummed up as well.
If your bearing clearance was .002, your fine. If it was .020, it should be hammering and probably won't last long.
It is 0.002, I just typed it wrong
Big shoutout to @RAYJON for helping me with my diffs. There’s been a lot of head scratching on what the history has been on my front diff. Mismatched pinion bearings, deformed crush sleeve, welded pinion spacers, and bearings just falling off when they should be pressed. Now that we have figured out the math on the solid spacer, it should be down hill.
Hhmmmm looks complicated. You the man RAYJON
Tony_Farson
Club President Emeritus, Battle Born Cruisers
I "fabricated" (
) the spacers for my bargain find Warn winch out of aluminum block. Hoping to have it mounted this weekend.
) the spacers for my bargain find Warn winch out of aluminum block. Hoping to have it mounted this weekend.
MountNGoat
KK6WRY. Always Learning
Interesting, and of course I have a lot of respect for Kurt's opinions. My personal experience with them comes from two trucks. I've got them on my wife's 80 and it's seen some fair wheeling, including the Rubicon, and so far I've had no problems. Early on in my 60's life I had them in the knuckles, again without problem, before switching to a Diamond front housing with their keyed knuckle/steering arm assembly.
I've had a theory for a while now that part of the problem with knuckle studs to begin with is that they are over torqued regularly on wheeling vehicles. A lot of trail tightening of knuckle studs is to just get whatever wrench fits and pull really hard, get some movement on the nut, and call it good. So, over time they can be overtightened, yielding them, and then they stretch, thin, and ultimately break. From my perspective this connection is not what in the structural world we would call a "slip critical" connection, meaning we would rely on friction created by bolt pretension clamping two surfaces together to transfer shear. Instead we would refer to this as a "bearing" connection. With the greasy nature of the assembly the bolts are going to transfer the shear forces through direct bearing of the bolt (although I make sure the surfaces are as clean as I can get them when assembling). The ARP studs will be stronger in shear than stock studs, and if you adhere to the torque specs you shouldn't strip out the knuckle, so a win-win in my book. Front Range Off Road recommends using Red loctite at the knuckle side to prevent loosening, so when I put them in my wife's 80 I made sure to thoroughly degrease the threaded holes in the knuckles before installing the ARP studs with loctite.
MountNGoat
KK6WRY. Always Learning
I couldn't find a grade, but here is some info from Front Range about them: ARP Steering Arm Knuckle Studs - https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/arp-steering-arm-knuckle-studs/.
As an ASE tech, I completely agree with you. I would say that improper torque is the leading cause. I deal with it daily.
I currently don’t have plans to do an extreme wheeling, but I’m building the rig for it. I didn’t go with ARP hardware, but I can change it in the future. I’m leaving the stock hub studs (front and rear) as my “weak point”. I’d rather change hub studs, then break something internal.
lelandEOD
SILVER Star
Getting serious with that Sawzall!!!
lelandEOD
SILVER Star
And tacked in place!
