Builds What did you do with your cruiser today? (8 Viewers)

[JDMRedhead]

Getting my injector seals changed out. Definitely had 1 that was toast, #2, but #6 wasn’t far better. I had Marvel’s sitting in the cylinders since last weekend. Turned it over a few revolutions before putting in the new glow plugs. Made a nice mess of things.

 

[WILLD420]

Your compression numbers may go up now. Those look nasty.

 

[DesertLake]

Removed the Slee headlamp relay harness, it didn't do any good or harm on my '96. Maybe earlier models have a different relay arrangement that this improves upon.

 

[DesertLake]

I've been chasing this issue for months where I hear the starter slow down for one cylinder when cold. I swapped my old starter back in just in case, no change.

Here's what I have measured so far:

1) I had my mechanic do a compression check a few months ago, he got 130-140-150-140-150-150. That's when I was thinking I could have a cylinder losing compression, but the numbers are close enough to each other, and on lost compression I would think the starter would speed up for a pulse not slow down.

2) Swapped starters. No difference.

3) Removed injector fuse, recorded video of cold cranking. Replaced injector fuse, warmed up the car, recorded video of warm cranking. Audio sounds very similar, except one cylinder sounds slower on the cold cranking video. Unfortunately I had my phone sitting on the air cleaner which made it rattle, so there is enough garbage in the audio to where I can't take time measurements from the wave form.

4) Recorded audio of "lukewarm" cranking with my phone on the workbench, but I will have to wait more hours for good cold cranking audio. Using Audacity, I measured the starter noise from one cylinder was consistently 8-10% longer duration than the other 5 - it's the 6th pulse in the picture below.

5) Recorded video of "lukewarm" cranking with distributor cap off to prove to myself the 6-pulse cycle I hear is once per cam revolution as opposed to once per crank revolution.

Ruled out: starter, crankshaft, flex plate due to tests 2 4 and 5.

Talking with Will about what if anything it rules in.

I'm thinking: if the exhaust valve were -just- sticking closed, then on one stroke the starter is compressing 2 cylinders instead of 1. But how does the exhaust valve stick shut during cold cranking but no noticeable symptom as soon as the engine fires, and no symptom during warm cranking?

Am I missing something obvious?

 

[rusty_tlc]

I've been chasing this issue for months where I hear the starter slow down for one cylinder when cold. I swapped my old starter back in just in case, no change.

Here's what I have measured so far:

1) I had my mechanic do a compression check a few months ago, he got 130-140-150-140-150-150. That's when I was thinking I could have a cylinder losing compression, but the numbers are close enough to each other, and on lost compression I would think the starter would speed up for a pulse not slow down.

2) Swapped starters. No difference.

3) Removed injector fuse, recorded video of cold cranking. Replaced injector fuse, warmed up the car, recorded video of warm cranking. Audio sounds very similar, except one cylinder sounds slower on the cold cranking video. Unfortunately I had my phone sitting on the air cleaner which made it rattle, so there is enough garbage in the audio to where I can't take time measurements from the wave form.

4) Recorded audio of "lukewarm" cranking with my phone on the workbench, but I will have to wait more hours for good cold cranking audio. Using Audacity, I measured the starter noise from one cylinder was consistently 8-10% longer duration than the other 5 - it's the 6th pulse in the picture below.
View attachment 2670013
5) Recorded video of "lukewarm" cranking with distributor cap off to prove to myself the 6-pulse cycle I hear is once per cam revolution as opposed to once per crank revolution.

Ruled out: starter, crankshaft, flex plate due to tests 2 4 and 5.

Talking with Will about what if anything it rules in.

I'm thinking: if the exhaust valve were -just- sticking closed, then on one stroke the starter is compressing 2 cylinders instead of 1. But how does the exhaust valve stick shut during cold cranking but no noticeable symptom as soon as the engine fires, and no symptom during warm cranking?

Am I missing something obvious?

Do you have access to a storage scope you could hook up to the tach output? That might give a cleaner picture of what the crank is doing during startup.
Other thoughts:
Maybe a ring is fouled and takes a while to free up?
Wrist pin bearing wearing out?

 

[DesertLake]

Do you have access to a storage scope you could hook up to the tach output? That might give a cleaner picture of what the crank is doing during startup.
Other thoughts:
Maybe a ring is fouled and takes a while to free up?
Wrist pin bearing wearing out?

I have an old scope, could be worth a look. If it were a problem with crank or piston I'd expect twice as many events per cam rotation, unless I'm missing something.

 

[DesertLake]

I turned the engine over with a torque wrench and could immediately tell I have no compression on #1. And should I read anything into the darker color on #1 exhaust?

 

[rusty_tlc]

That sucks.

 

[WILLD420]

Time for another compression test.

 

[RAYJON]

Heat gun while running front exhaust will be cooler due to fan,. Easy check.. cold is rich or missing..

 

[RAYJON]

Finished Jerry can holder,.

 

[RAYJON]

Now to figure out where I want the highlift

 

[Krusty Krab]

Nicely down as usual. Good work on the bumper as well.

 

[DesertLake]

Time for another compression test.

I misused some compression test fittings to inject compressor air into #1and it all came out the throttle body. Same test on #2, for comparison, and it held the air. Based on several people's advice (thanks Will and Ray in particular) I'm going to put it back together, run some sea foam through, and find some shims to adjust the valves soon.

 

[RAYJON]

Added to the custom dirty exterior.. we need some rain.. it's dry.. also checked fit on the tire carrier for 35's..

 

[Tony_Farson]

Added to the custom dirty exterior.. we need some rain.. it's dry.. also checked fit on the tire carrier for 35's..

View attachment 2676145

It is raining here! 80 looks awesome @RAYJON

 

[RAYJON]

Have a few more to add for off road only duty.. I like the k02's for daily driving...

 

[JDMRedhead]

I got a few hours to work on the hot rod today. Started putting together the front axle. Swapped out the front brakes for the 93-97s, drive flanges from the FZJ also, and installed the RCV axle shafts. I had forgot that the shafts were rifle drilled.

 

[DesertLake]

Pulled the cams and measured the shims. I'm pretty sure I was supposed to go back and measure clearance after break-in and didn't, followed by scheduled someone to do it than cancelled. So now I had a few intake valves down to zero clearance. The shims are in a pretty narrow range, so reshuffling won't do it. Will be calling Toyota tomorrow.

 

[JDMRedhead]

Pulled the cams and measured the shims. I'm pretty sure I was supposed to go back and measure clearance after break-in and didn't, followed by scheduled someone to do it than cancelled. So now I had a few intake valves down to zero clearance. The shims are in a pretty narrow range, so reshuffling won't do it. Will be calling Toyota tomorrow.View attachment 2676313

I’m thinking that my compression issue might be valve clearance also. I can’t just go to Toyota and order mine though. Also, only the 1HDT and 1HZ use those shims. Next winter I’ll have to pull everything off again and take measurements, then order what’s needed from Aussie land.