I bet you will have better luck, I am in New England so many parts seem to rust or fail sooner. As I mentioned their LCA’s have been great.
What Did You Do With Your 120 Today? (14 Viewers)
- Thread starter kbahus
- Start date
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A-Pilar grab handle bolt cover
Thanks!! I was looking down, didn't think to look up..
Time to change all fluids front/rear differential and transfer case. All was good until I reached the front diff drain plug, previous owner or shop really cranked down on this one. I tried everything I had and could not get this thing to budge (breaker bar, chisel mallet and heat). I ended up taking it to our local 4x4 shop and having them weld on a nut to the plug, success 
heat from the welder probably helped also.
You can see in the pictures that the crush washer used previously was pretty thick and from the indentation on it, was over tightened. From everything I have read, that is not the correct washer and should have been a copper one and not as thick.
heat from the welder probably helped also. You can see in the pictures that the crush washer used previously was pretty thick and from the indentation on it, was over tightened. From everything I have read, that is not the correct washer and should have been a copper one and not as thick.
Dr KDSS BOTCK and Purrrrrty "expensive " "T7075 grade billet aluminum solid bar , Not tube" TracBar for Godsake..
While I was under there, I removed the air pump I'll never ever use again...
Edit.. oh and 1rst I put it in the top hole,,, didn't look, just torqued.. Mistake... tracbar angled up toward driver side by a 1/2 " .. Took the bolt out and moved the heim down and put it in the bottom hole.. much better..
While I was under there, I removed the air pump I'll never ever use again...
Edit.. oh and 1rst I put it in the top hole,,, didn't look, just torqued.. Mistake... tracbar angled up toward driver side by a 1/2 " .. Took the bolt out and moved the heim down and put it in the bottom hole.. much better..
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Just installed these. So far very impressed even though I haven't put them in use yet.
It's looks like the 460 calipers / rotors are massive when compared..
I'm just wondering if I should've went with longer lines..
Those are the ebc's. Really nice.. They stopped doing that coating and now have a different method. I have the gen 3s which don't use the thermic black. They claim the new finish has a higher corrosion resistance. I was a bit disappointed because I was anticipating the black.
When you bled your lines, did you do it with someone inside or some other way?
EBC Premium Brake Rotors Gen 3 - EBC Brakes
Premium Brake Rotors by EBC brakes product & info page. Premium brake rotors are a replacement for normal street driving vehicles cast from hard iron.
ebcbrakes.com
When did they stop with the coating? I bought these in May. Haven't bled the brakes yet. I've got a brake bleeder kit that I have never used that I'm going to try before I ask the wife to assist.Those are the ebc's. Really nice.. They stopped doing that coating and now have a different method. I have the gen 3s which don't use the thermic black. They claim the new finish has a higher corrosion resistance. I was a bit disappointed because I was anticipating the black.
When you bled your lines, did you do it with someone inside or some other way?
EBC Premium Brake Rotors Gen 3 - EBC Brakes
Premium Brake Rotors by EBC brakes product & info page. Premium brake rotors are a replacement for normal street driving vehicles cast from hard iron.
It looks like March, thats the date of the press release anyway. I think it probably takes awhile to get all the gen 2s and 1s sitting on shelves sold. They are still using the boxes with a label that said "black" on it, i.e. my box had the black label but surprise surprise when I opened it.. I made a stink about it, but then I went into EBCs website and drilled down into it. (see the link) I figured out the new coating which is a zinc finish is just as good, just not as purty. Also, the marketing of the thermic black hasn't gone away, pictures of them are everywhere.
New Gen 3 Brake Rotors Release - EBC Brakes
ebcbrakes.com
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Did a couchbro inspection under it and noticed some deteriorating bump stops, small cracks apprearing on some of the body mounts, and almost vanishing lca bushings. Also there's a small rip on driver side outer boot and cracks appearing on passenger side inner boot. I did some limittd research/browsing/reading/youtubing, created a parts list and went to town.
I picked up moog lca and cardone axles to do myself, the fj axles are backordered from toyota. Also picked up some oil seals for both sides just in case. Shops near me want around $1.2k just in labor, one of them quoted me $400+ for 1 axle.. so I'll do it myself and spend money on some propper tools instead. I'll take my time getting boots on the stock axles later and keep them as backup just in case. Bump stops I'm not too worried for now, the body mounts I am curious if anyone has replaced them or if it's worth it, I'd let a shop handle it if anything.
I've been wrapping everythng except the front and rear bumpers. The rear bumper I need to get some more material for it, not in a hurry though. The front bumper or what's left of it I painted with bed liner. Still waiting to get a nicer one and sell the rrw. I also did the trunk interior body panels, lower b-pillar panels, and door step trims with bed liner paint as they were all scuffed up.
I did the wrap outdoors by myself.. do not recommend
It's not perfect, the difficult parts were the doors when I thought the roof or hood would be, especially with the hex pattern. I overstrached the matte gray in a few spots and I'm ok with it for now.
Ordered new windshield mouldings, the orginal were deteriorating in my hands. Will not replacing any of the other roof mouldings and just let rain channel its way out. I still need to fix the prinsu rack to get the roof tent back on and go on a much needed trip. Still fishing for a decent rear spoiler.. Enjoy!
That's a fat fly on the hood, behind it is a ding which vinyl sure knows how to make really visible!
I picked up moog lca and cardone axles to do myself, the fj axles are backordered from toyota. Also picked up some oil seals for both sides just in case. Shops near me want around $1.2k just in labor, one of them quoted me $400+ for 1 axle.. so I'll do it myself and spend money on some propper tools instead. I'll take my time getting boots on the stock axles later and keep them as backup just in case. Bump stops I'm not too worried for now, the body mounts I am curious if anyone has replaced them or if it's worth it, I'd let a shop handle it if anything.
I've been wrapping everythng except the front and rear bumpers. The rear bumper I need to get some more material for it, not in a hurry though. The front bumper or what's left of it I painted with bed liner. Still waiting to get a nicer one and sell the rrw. I also did the trunk interior body panels, lower b-pillar panels, and door step trims with bed liner paint as they were all scuffed up.
I did the wrap outdoors by myself.. do not recommend
It's not perfect, the difficult parts were the doors when I thought the roof or hood would be, especially with the hex pattern. I overstrached the matte gray in a few spots and I'm ok with it for now.Ordered new windshield mouldings, the orginal were deteriorating in my hands. Will not replacing any of the other roof mouldings and just let rain channel its way out. I still need to fix the prinsu rack to get the roof tent back on and go on a much needed trip. Still fishing for a decent rear spoiler.. Enjoy!
That's a fat fly on the hood, behind it is a ding which vinyl sure knows how to make really visible!
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Discovered a concerning wobble when driving.
Been a couple hundred miles since getting the master cylinder replaced, and it’s driven like a dream. No wheeling or work done since then.
Left the gym yesterday, and there is some odd behavior with handling and steering. Not sure if alignment slipped or what.
From a dead stop, accelerating straight, the wheel cuts hard - almost 45 degrees - to the driver side. On straightaways, holding the wheel centered, it feels like something is wobbling left to right (feel it from the floor), and the wheel goes left right if you don’t hold it center.
Never experienced this before. Will try to find time this weekend to take a look, but it likely has to wait until I get back from Mexico in a couple weeks.
Been a couple hundred miles since getting the master cylinder replaced, and it’s driven like a dream. No wheeling or work done since then.
Left the gym yesterday, and there is some odd behavior with handling and steering. Not sure if alignment slipped or what.
From a dead stop, accelerating straight, the wheel cuts hard - almost 45 degrees - to the driver side. On straightaways, holding the wheel centered, it feels like something is wobbling left to right (feel it from the floor), and the wheel goes left right if you don’t hold it center.
Never experienced this before. Will try to find time this weekend to take a look, but it likely has to wait until I get back from Mexico in a couple weeks.
You may have a bad tire (split cord). I hope your not driving that down there like that!
Haha no way! Flying down there for my girlfriend’s birthday. Truck will remain in the driveway until I can sort out what the issue is. Appreciate the advice about the tire. I’ll check that out.
Got lucky - tie rod end ball joint was very loose.
Had a few minutes between calls, and I popped under the car.
I can only assume I forgot the cotter pin when I replaced my coilovers recently, and it’s worked itself loose.
Should be able to fix that easily.
Imagine that coming off while cruising down the highway. Good thing there were warning signs and you found the problem.
Yeah it could have been very bad. Disappointed in myself for being so careless putting it back together.
Ended up ordering a new OEM outer tie rod end. The ball joint was leaking pretty badly on mine.
When I tried tightening the old one, the ball joint stud just spun. Can I use a small jack to put pressure on it while I tighten it? What about a ball joint puller, but in reverse to clamp it? Any tricks?
Edit: bottle jack + impact driver got it on. Should be fine until the new part is installed in a couple weeks.
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