In the 2nd to last pic you need to add some split loom to cover the wires where the wires go through the the hole under the headlight or they will rub through. I was adding a trans cooler to mine last weekend and looked at my winch wires routed in the same place. The insulation is showing a small divot where it was against that edge. Anywhere where wire touches an edge you want some split loom or other abrasion resistant sheath even if the edge seems really blunt. Its crazy what road vibrations will do over time
What Did You Do With Your 120 Today? (12 Viewers)
- Thread starter kbahus
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
In the 2nd to last pic you need to add some split loom to cover the wires where the wires go through the the hole under the headlight or they will rub through. I was adding a trans cooler to mine last weekend and looked at my winch wires routed in the same place. The insulation is showing a small divot where it was against that edge. Anywhere where wire touches an edge you want some split loom or other abrasion resistant sheath even if the edge seems really blunt. Its crazy what road vibrations will do over time
Good point. It’s hard to see in the photo but I ran plastic edging along the sheetmetal seam, it’s this stuff:
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
Do you think I would also need loom on the wire?
Anytime you have a wire on a metal edge, it needs to be removed from the edge and secured so it cannot migrate there in the future. Particularly true of high amperage wires coming off battery posts where the possibility of fire exists. I really like your use of adel clamps.Good point. It’s hard to see in the photo but I ran plastic edging along the sheetmetal seam, it’s this stuff:
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.www.mcmaster.com
Do you think I would also need loom on the wire?
Last edited:
Thanks to you guys I dug into my front springs and discovered they're not the correct spring for the additional weight up front, i.e. bumper and winch. New heavier springs have been added to the mod list. Finish wiring up the switch pro and Phoenix, replace rear drive shaft. Then I'll get to the springs.
I didn’t know those were called adel clamps. I also used them along the bottom of the radiator support with M8 nutserts. That’s 2/0 wire and a lot of weight to be flopping around.
I know that you have a short run from the battery to your winch controller but I think you should add a battery disconnect in between those for safety. If those 2/0 wires short circuit they're going pull the full CCA of your battery which will almost certainly cause an electrical fire. Better to keep power off to the winch most of the time and turn it on only when you're planning to use it. A friend of mine in my local Toyota offroad club had his new 5th gen 4runner burn to the ground earlier this year from a short in the power cable in his stereo wiring installed by Best Buy. You can't really fuse a winch so a battery disconnect is the next best thing
Your use of the adels is really smart , looks like a nice install.
Yes, they are used extensively in aviation applications to keep wires and wire bundles routed correctly and safely.
I like to use them on the 470 too as you can see by my overkill running wires off the spare tire swingout.
Last edited:
I think I’m going to trim the “handle” piece of the bolt for the d ring (see pic below) rather than trim the mounting bolt. I just can’t get my angle grinder in there to trim the mounting bolt. Also have soft shackles in my recovery gear kit.
Nice s-works back there!Your use of the adels is really smart , looks like a nice install.
Yes, they are used extensively in aviation applications to keep wires and wire bundles routed correctly and safely.
I like to use them on the 470 too as you can see by my overkill running wires off the spare tire swingout.
View attachment 3279233
View attachment 3279234
Oh yea, thanks, that's my baby besides the gx, its a clean machine , 2013 but I take real good care of it so its clean as a whistle.
I hear you and I don’t necessarily disagree, I considered using one when I was planning this out and decided against it. I don’t think that a battery disconnect would make my setup any safer. My rationale is that the constant hot wire is only about 1’ long and runs along the positive side of the battery and the fuse box. In a crash scenario where the wire could get damaged there would probably be bad enough damage that the hood, rad support, fender, or engine would already be grounding out on the battery or fuse box. Adding a disconnect would shorten that run but not eliminate it.
That weighed into my decision to put the solenoid under the hood. Both to make that constant hot wire as short as possible, and also for security (someone can’t Hotwire the winch). If I had a solenoid at the winch or the solenoid on the other side of the engine bay I would use a disconnect.
Nice wiring! I like how everything is mounted and concealed. Giving me some ideas with this one!Your use of the adels is really smart , looks like a nice install.
Yes, they are used extensively in aviation applications to keep wires and wire bundles routed correctly and safely.
I like to use them on the 470 too as you can see by my overkill running wires off the spare tire swingout.
View attachment 3279233
View attachment 3279234
Thanks.. yea.. It took me awhile to dream it up. I can't tolerate crappy wire jobs. Its 35 years of avionics tech coming out. My last build was an 88 f150 , I ripped every bit of the po's hatchet work out and started over.
Last edited:
Btw it's extremely beautiful there, I'm guessing somewhere close to Moab?
Well after waiting for sales and parts to come in I was finally able to get my new to me ARB CKMA12 On-board air compressor installed this past Sunday.
It was a 2 banana install. The hardest part was the wiring simply because I suck at electrical work but I was lucky to have my good buddy who is an auto mechanic helping out.
It was perfect weather this Sunday with the sun shining and temps in the upper 50’s low 60’s… great weather for Maryland this time of year!
First order of the install was to take off the plastic cover over the fuse and batter side of the engine bay as well as the brackets that were not needed anymore…. Easy and quick.
Took off the factory battery terminals and replaced them with upgraded ones with more wire mounting options
Amazon product ASIN B09LYFTPSB
My only complaint about these was that both covers are the same. I think it would have been MUCH cooler if one of the covers was red or at least tinted red. I made due with making sure the power cable was a big honking red one.
Next was the test fitting of the tray to hold the compressor. There are not a ton of different options out there, at least not when I was shopping around but I decided to use the blank option from Power Trays and I am very pleased with it!
Blank PowerTray > 4Runner/ FJ Cruiser/ GX - https://www.powertrays.com/collections/gx470/products/1-blank-powertray
It’s hard to screw up just a piece of Aluminium but it is nicely made with eased edges and it fits perfectly in its spot. Also it was very easy to drill our mounting holes exactly where we wanted them and didn’t have to use any premade layout since the parts I was using were not any of the options they had predone. Just remember to use the right bits and step bits as well as put a center punch in BEFORE drilling!
Fist step was the test fitting and putting everything where it would be mounted. We did this in the actual engine bay so we could also test for hood clearance at the same time. After a few changes and turns we had it all set. Then it was time to drill….. And drill… a total of 12 holes for everything to be mounted and to run wires through as well.
Now with the ARB compressor installed we also put in a Blue Sea Systems 5025 Fuse block to help clean up some of the wiring that was in place for the Diode Dynamics S3 Ditch lights and to also make any future wiring installs easier with a single point to run all power to and from.
Amazon product ASIN B000THQ0CQ
We drilled two holes on the side of the fuse block to run cables from underneath and keep the area as clean and neat as possible. To avoid any rubbing issues we put two small rubber grommets in to hold the wires off the edges and to also give it a cleaner finished look.
Once everything is mounted to the Power Tray it is back to the engine bay…
With the tray installed we ran the power and negative cables and put in the ring terminals and heat shrinked it all to keep them secure and weather protected and again a finished look.
Once we, and by we I mean my buddy Tommy, had it all wired up and knew it all worked Tommy took out the “factory” harness that I had gotten when I bought the unit ( used ) and cut out all the leftover wiring that was not going to be needed. Not running air lockers or anything like that with this setup. Once he had it down to just what we needed and wanted for this everything got taped, loomed and secured out of the way to make for a clean presentation and to keep the engine bay from looking like a rats nest.
I had bought a nice rocker switch to install on the tray but after trying to figure out the best and cleanest way to install it with the tools on hand we opted for a basic round switch that we could simply use a step bit to drill out a proper sized hole for. I might go back at a later date and change it but for now its clean and works just fine. I mounted it on the Power Tray instead of running it into the cabin for a couple of reasons.
- It is simpler to do it this way
- Did not have to worry about where to mount it inside to keep everything looking as factory as possible.
- The only time it needs to be use the hood will be open to give the compressor as much open air flow as possible so having the power switch there must make it more convenient, in my mind at least.
… and the finished product!! Everything is wired in and works great. The compressor is ready to go in about 3 seconds after power is turned on!
