It's only 8000 miles since I did the whole front axle thing and today when I had the cruiser up I notice a big wobble in the front left wheel - big time loose. When I did the front axle job I used the fish scale as per the manual but I aways though the bearings were way too loose. I thought I could have done them much better just by feel. Was I right? What am I going to find on a strip down?
Just loose wheel bearings-no big deal. Did you replace the wheelbearings? I think with new bearings you often have to reset the preload after a few thousand miles, at least I did on my FJ60.
CruiserDrew: Yes I used new everything and I did calibrate the fish scale but I really did feel it was not enough. Who would support me tightening by gut feel this time?
CruiserDrew: Yes I used new everything and I did calibrate the fish scale but I really did feel it was not enough. Who would support me tightening by gut feel this time?
I would-I don't use the scale anymore. There are too many variables, like the temp.thickness of the grease gives falsely high readings. Ideally, it should be just tight enough.
i just torque the thing to 10 ftlbs after a few rotations and call it good. Never had a failure or loosening of the bearings. The rears are still the original Timkens with 200k on them
I had a slightly different situation I recently shared with Dan - after torquing the first washernut with the right torque, and then after setting the second washernut with the right torque I could not get the preload lower than 12.8 lbs measured with a perfectly calibrated digital fishscale. I actually ruined two tabbed lockwashers by redoing the torque so many times. Like I wrote the best I got was 12.8 consistently with 13 to 13.2 depending on how smoothly i was actually able to increase the "weight."
After talking to Dan the man, I realized that the replacement bearings were a little tight and would work a little loose over time. I've already ordered other locktab washers and appropriate gaskets so I'll simply recheck/reset after awhile. PITA actually!
If I remember correctly, when I did my birfield repack - the first step was to tighten up the nut real tight, loosen it, and then retighten to the required torque.
The first step squeezes all the grease and seats the bearing properly on the spindle. Did you remember to do this? You might have got a faulty reading if the grease was in the way when you used the fish scale.
I tightened mine by hand using the method mentioned above. I have had no problems.
I tighten real tight, spin the rotor back and fourth a bunch of times by hand till I feel it loosen up,back off then set the preload. Its been fine for all the cars,trucks and everything else I've done with tapered bearings
I set my new bearings toward the high end of the recommended range using a CALIBRATED fish scale (hang a full gallon of water from it to check - should read about 8 pounds).
After 5000 miles both sides were noticeably loose so I reset the preload (remembering to remove the brake pads) and things are fine.
I think it's just the new races settling into the recesses in the hub.
The races should not be setteling if you hammered them correctly.. Toss the stupid fish scale at some fish and use the tighten and loosen method talked about above. I have done hundreds of wheel bearings and the only ones that came back were the fish scale ones. Maybe it is just me then..
The races should not be setteling if you hammered them correctly.. Toss the stupid fish scale at some fish and use the tighten and loosen method talked about above. I have done hundreds of wheel bearings and the only ones that came back were the fish scale ones. Maybe it is just me then..
Got in there this afternoon and I could remove tension nut with my fingers. Lock nut was still in place so I guess it settled a bit and was loose to begin with just as i thought. I got it back together using the FSM torques but tightening and untightening about four times and blew off checking the reload. It took effort to rotate the rotors, like turning a large water main valve on and off, but they were very smooth. Nice tight wheels now.
Thanks for the great input.
Michael
FOR SALE:
Fish Scale 0-20lb. Will weigh medium Carp or Bream and calibrated for Toyota
Got in there this afternoon and I could remove tension nut with my fingers. Lock nut was still in place so I guess it settled a bit and was loose to begin with just as i thought. I got it back together using the FSM torques but tightening and untightening about four times and blew off checking the reload. It took effort to rotate the rotors, like turning a large water main valve on and off, but they were very smooth. Nice tight wheels now.
Thanks for the great input.
Michael
FOR SALE:
Fish Scale 0-20lb. Will weigh medium Carp or Bream and calibrated for Toyota
Sounds good, take it on a highway speed test drive, after about 15 miles stop and touch the hub. It should be warm, if it's too hot, just back it off a hair.
Seriously, I'll take my digiscale to work to measure the "preload" on our water main valves but I would estimate they take at least 15 to 20 pounds. You are gonna overheat your bearings i imagine.
