What can a built 60 series front axle handle for tires? (7 Viewers)

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canadian bum

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Well what size of tires is everyone running on there 60 series axles? Mine will be trussed have a trac-bar, Longfield shafts and birfs, ARB locker, and most likely 4.88 gears. Do you think that it can handle 38's? I would like to hear what others are running for tires on there 60 series axles. I'm looking at a 38x15.5R15 Nitto mud grappler or a 37x14.5R15 Toyo Open Country M/T.
 
I'm building similar but 4.11s with a plan for 37-39s. Lotta 60 guys run them no problem with large tires from what I've seen, obviously it's possible to break them but you should be alright.
 
Sounds good. Was figuring shouldn't have a problem unless I'm getting stupid with it but then when your doing that your always asking for trouble. Not worried about the rear as its a full float out of a 60 series and if I do break a shaft I'll just upgrade to chromoly shafts.
 
I think Freds40 is running 40s with basically an upgraded stock axle. I just got some 37s and am hoping the front axle will stay together (Longfield 30s, 6 shooters). If not, it's Dana 60 time.
 
I was thinking about 6 shooter knuckles or at the very least add extra studs like some companies provide. Is trail gear the only place to get the 6 shooter knuckles?
 
I got the 6 shooter set up from daves off road performance. Go to pirate board and run a search...youll find him. He's a TG vendor. I got the knuckle, shims and arms for 250.00. BANGIN DEAL! Still gotta get the studs and such though. He's got TONS O STUFF and its really reasonable.
Might wanna try sky manufacturing as well. IIRC they have em too. They have a great inventory of parts as well.

IMO if youre not heavy on the throttle with the axles and big meats you should be okay with the stock upgraded axle.
That being said...anything can fail. Its just part of the game.
 
Marlin does not carry six shooters but I thought for a while he was doing the fifth stud mod on knuckles and selling them. I went with six shooters, got them for 250 like chicago, and have to say I like them for the price and a completely new knuckle and matching high steer setup for that price is hard to argue with.
 
hub studs and steering arms are concerns after getting Bobbys shafts.

But with toyos I dont think you will have a problem.

I run 38x16x15s on beadlocks and beat it bad twice a month at least. Rolled it this weekend.

I have Bobbys 30 spline, a fifth stud (6 shooters are so reasonable now, Id do them if ya can afford them)
and keep the hub bolts tight or get a 6 pin kit form bobby.
 
If you want to increase the durability of the axles, try and shed some weight. You'd be amazed at how much the little bits, pieces, and extra unused bolts/fasteners end up weighting in the front. Sawzall where you can
 
I've read that ARP hub studs front and rear will help a lot in terms of keeping the hubs together. I just broke a FF rear shaft in my 60 and my new PP rear shafts are in the mail. The next thing I'm worried about is shearing the hub studs.

That said, I tend to be heavy on the throttle and I blew through 3 birfs last weekend. I may have even bent my housing.
 
I'll do the 6 shooter knuckles for sure. Are you guys referring to the studs that the locking hubs loosening off and sheering? If so might have to get some better studs so I don't have to worry.

I'm adding a bunch of tubing so I'm actually going to increase the weight but I am ditching the bed for a flat bed. I will probably be heavier though.
 
I've been pounding on a totally stock front with 36" TSL's for a while now, with no breakage to date. The open diff is keeping it alive I know, but I haven't been easy on the skinny pedal at all. I do check my hub and knuckle studs and make sure to keep them torqued.
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I've been pounding on a totally stock front with 36" TSL's for a while now, with no breakage to date. The open diff is keeping it alive I know, but I haven't been easy on the skinny pedal at all. I do check my hub and knuckle studs and make sure to keep them torqued.

That's my issue, I've got a locker up front.

Checking the knuckle and hub studs before every run is essential.
 
40s on my 40 with an fj60 front. I have had the 40s for 3 seasons now, no problems yet, lots of undercuts in our trails out here and good traction. I torque the steering arms every morning, and the hubs when I remember.
 
39.5 Iroks are the lightest 40" tire among hardcore offroad tires...imho they will give you the best performance and axle durability in that size range with yota axles period
 
39.5 Iroks are the lightest 40" tire among hardcore offroad tires...imho they will give you the best performance and axle durability in that size range with yota axles period

Iroks do work very well however due to the tread compound they don't wear as well on the highway which is why I'm thinking Toyo, however my 40 series I have really been thinking about running Iroks but thats on 80 series axles.
 
39" Red Label Crawlers going on my 4th season - but I only wheel a few weeks out of the year. Switched from a 40 axle to a widened 60 axle. 30 spline longs, gusseted, 6 shooters, ARB with cryo'd fine spine 4.56, rock ram, 4x4 labs arms 1 ton tie rod ends, rock ram. Hammered it a few times last week - but am mostly pretty easy on it. Nice light axle that can be made super strong - anything better is gonna weigh a little bit more.
 

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