What are others doing when their VAF’s go bad? ‘94 FZJ80 (1 Viewer)

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Like title says, looking at options. I’ve been reading threads, but nothing seems to stand out as the best option. I’ve got low idling issues that seem to point to the VAF, I’ll be checking numbers, but just looking ahead for options/opinions.

Thanks
 
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Thanks for the link, the old link I found was no longer good. I'll contact him and give it a try.

Thanks
Scott
 
Word of caution I just ordered a resurrected unit for my 94 from Tony and he's very nice, but measure your stud pattern on your existing unit and specify exactly what you need. My OEM wasn't what it was supposed to be. That is if you're replacing and not sending existing for repair.
 
I haven’t replaced the vacuum lines, they all seem pliable and in good shape but I could add that to my list for sure. I haven’t done much to the intake as it looks to be extremely clean inside and without much carbon buildup that I can see without removal. I also haven’t looked much at the EGR system since it was idling so smoothly. I did replace the PCV and associated rubber line as well as the breather line as well as the IAC. It idles very well, just around 400 at times. Other times it will be closer to 650. I’ve replaced the cap, wires, plugs, rotor which didn’t make any difference, but it was expected to, it was just time for a tuneup. It’s had this issue since I bought it, the mileage was 110,000 and it now has 145,000. I’ve also changed the O2 sensors. So another thing that I find odd is that occasionally the check engine light will stay on throughout the seatbelt buzzer, other times it flips right off after the start, almost like a sensor is out of spec during startup.
 
Before you start down the VAF rabbit hole check your codes.

If the codes point toward your VAF start looking for a replacement or repair
If you daily drive your 80 and are not able to send yours away for repair. Used VAF's are getting very difficult to find. Start looking.

Mine is on the way out. My flap is sticking, air temp sensor doesn't do its job and the Po decided to mangle insides, probably in hope of better fuel economy. I went for one of the Chinese options that exist. Hopefully it will arrive before the temperature drops.
 
Before you start down the VAF rabbit hole check your codes.

If the codes point toward your VAF start looking for a replacement or repair
If you daily drive your 80 and are not able to send yours away for repair. Used VAF's are getting very difficult to find. Start looking.

Mine is on the way out. My flap is sticking, air temp sensor doesn't do its job and the Po decided to mangle insides, probably in hope of better fuel economy. I went for one of the Chinese options that exist. Hopefully it will arrive before the temperature drops.
x2. I had a code 24, which is why I sent mine to the fella in SC for repair.
 
I’ve have no codes, I did before I replaced the O2’s, but that seemed to clear up the codes, but the idling issue remained. I’m referencing the troubleshooting guide in the FSM which points to the VAF for low idle. Mine seems to function well as in how smooth it moves, just thinking maybe a dead spot in the electronics???
 
Low idle? What other troubleshooting have you done and what troubleshooting section are you using?
Sporadic rough idle at low rpm's. Will be idling nicely at an intersection or red light and then slowly begin not breathing well. Will get to a point where it almost dies. I've gotten into the habit of sliding into neutral and giving it a bit of gas to keep the idle a bit higher. I've changed my O2's, my spark plugs, my distributer and wires. Replaced the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. Troubleshot the EGR and fuel pump relay.
I cleaned the Mass Airflow Meter, which wasn't very dirty, and it ran perfect for 3 days with no CEL. I finally took it to the local Toyota dealership and they pointed at the mass air flow per the readings off of the multimeter master computer. I try to do as much as I can myself on my land cruiser. I've owned it for over 20 yrs and currently sitting at around 340,000 mi.
 
Sporadic rough idle at low rpm's. Will be idling nicely at an intersection or red light and then slowly begin not breathing well. Will get to a point where it almost dies. I've gotten into the habit of sliding into neutral and giving it a bit of gas to keep the idle a bit higher. I've changed my O2's, my spark plugs, my distributer and wires. Replaced the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. Troubleshot the EGR and fuel pump relay.
I cleaned the Mass Airflow Meter, which wasn't very dirty, and it ran perfect for 3 days with no CEL. I finally took it to the local Toyota dealership and they pointed at the mass air flow per the readings off of the multimeter master computer. I try to do as much as I can myself on my land cruiser. I've owned it for over 20 yrs and currently sitting at around 340,000 mi.
Sounds like the VAF. If it is bad, there’s a guy on eBay others on this site have used to repair them. They are no longer available new so that’s an option for you. Or you can find them used. I recently had to do the same thing.

Have you bench tested the VAF yourself on and off the rig? Very simple to do and validate what Toyota told you
 
Like title says, looking at options. I’ve been reading threads, but nothing seems to stand out as the best option. I’ve got low idling issues that seem to point to the VAF, I’ll be checking numbers, but just looking ahead for options/opinions.

Thanks
just use one from BMW
 
just use one from BMW
Goran, I'll try a trunk monkey if it's an option. During the last 6 months I've spoke to Cruiser guys in Colorado, California, Utah, Minnesota, Canada, and Australia looking for either a refurbished or ideas. I'll either go with the ebay guy in the Carolinas or finish my back and forth with NAPA. They have have a solution here in Texas. If so I'll update.
 
Sporadic rough idle at low rpm's. Will be idling nicely at an intersection or red light and then slowly begin not breathing well. Will get to a point where it almost dies. I've gotten into the habit of sliding into neutral and giving it a bit of gas to keep the idle a bit higher. I've changed my O2's, my spark plugs, my distributer and wires. Replaced the fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. Troubleshot the EGR and fuel pump relay.
I cleaned the Mass Airflow Meter, which wasn't very dirty, and it ran perfect for 3 days with no CEL. I finally took it to the local Toyota dealership and they pointed at the mass air flow per the readings off of the multimeter master computer. I try to do as much as I can myself on my land cruiser. I've owned it for over 20 yrs and currently sitting at around 340,000 mi.
In what outward, physical condition is the throttle cable?
Compared to other vehicles you've driven, how much effort does it take to operate the gas pedal?
Have you messed with the the throttle cable adjustment? If so, have your cold-start and warm-idle rpms changed as a result?

You should really make a new thread for this.
BUT!!!
If you answered "poop", "alot", and "yes-yes" to these q's, suspect you're due for a new throttle cable and accel pedal assy.
 
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Is the BMW VAF a plug and play option?
 
Is the BMW VAF a plug and play option?
That’s going to be a hard no. There’s a place called Bavarian Restorations who are known to fix VAF/AFMs for BMWs and more (?). Same kind of gig as the eBay dude except more expensive but could be argued does better work.

Don’t listen to these clowns unless they provide better info.
 

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