Welder Question

[Solace in Solitude]

Hey Experts,

I learned a little about ARC welding a great many years ago - and was never in a position to pursue it. I know nothing about MIG, TIG, etc. except how to look up the terms.

Now, I find I am yearnin' for learnin' and am in a living situation, with no 220V available and no chance of 220V becoming available. I'm very good with plans and building, when it comes to woodworking (cabinets, structures, etc.), so I have no doubt I can learn welding, as well.

I have a garage and it has 110V - but, that's it.

My questions:

Are there 110V welders available that would afford me the capability to, not only learn on, but would also be powerful enough to use in building FJ40 bumpers, etc. out of 1/4" steel (square channel, round, etc.)?

If so,

• What are my options and which would be easiest to master?
  
• What are the pros and cons or each type (110V) that is available?
  
• What are your recommendations - e.g. which would be best for my situation?

If not, I'll have to find another way to go...

One other question... in Europe, we used transformers to step 250V down to our 110V appliances. In the 12V world, we use invertors to step 12V up to 110V.

Is there such an invertor as one that will step 110V up to 220V, or is the amperage, involved simply too high.

Thank you!

 

[Coolerman]

Disclaimer: I'm not a professional welder!

I have a Craftsman 110V 105 amp Mig welder and in order to do 1/4 plate I have to make multiple passes using .035 wire. It will do it, it just takes longer. There are more powerful 110V welders out there like the Miller 140 which is rated at 3/16" single pass and is 110V. http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/product.php?model=M00234

Good thread about this very thing: http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?23122-most-powerful-110-Mig-welder

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Thanks Coolerman!

I subscribed to your build thread this morning and read where you said you were learning as you go - you're doing great work and it's a great thread!!!

I didn't realize you were doing this with a 110V welder - but, is the 105 amp generated by the welder?

What amp 110V circuit are you plugged into?

Thanks again!

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Thanks again! I see, from the Miller thread, that it uses a 20amp 110V circuit - so, that answered my question - I'm sure your Craftsman is probably the came required amperage circuit.

I also see the new link you added - just what I was looking for!

Thanks!

 

[AlaskanWheeler]

One item I thought was important was making sure that the welder I bought had infinite adjustment on the speed and power adjustments. Some of the lower end units don't come with this option, not allowing you to fine tune your welds.

 

[Coolerman]

It requires a minimum 20 amp circuit. My shop is full of them. I also have a 30 AMP available for it outside the shop though I have never needed it. This is a small welder. It does have the infinite adjustment for the speed and the voltage which is nice for dialing in for thin sheet metal...
So while it's GREAT for sheet metal on the Cruiser, I would not try to weld on the frame without proper beveling of the weld.

Craftsman CLAIMS it's a 105 amp welder but the reality is it's more like 90 amps same as a Miller 140.

I'm saving for a 220V Miller 180 or 220....

 

[MyTwoToys]

Hobart Welder

I purchased a Hobart Handler 140 last spring. It is Great! I set mine up with GAS and run .030 wire in it. I have had great success with this and have welded up to 1/4" with dual passes. I have a buddy who welds professionaly and he was "wicked"impressed with the unit. I can also run it as a flux core unit, but the welds are not as clean. I would set it up with GAS if I were you. This unit has many adjustments for different speed and heat settings.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/hobart-handlerreg;-140-mig-welder

I am sure the other brands our there are also good, but I would stay away from ones you purchase at Home xxxxxx etc... Go to a local welding shop for advice. Most will be happy to help.
Good luck!

 

[Howard705]

I think the 140 migs are great for most of it. Have a 175-hardly ever use hi setting. One thing to watch out for on the 110 migs is if it's an old house or has some kinda hacked wiring-be too much of a voltage drop for it to work right. BTW any house has 220 in it-the garage even could -it's just 2 opposite sides of the 110 wave. May not have both sides in garage-but may have and could be run into box depending how your wiring is done.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Thanks Guys!

All great info - also great info on the WeldingWeb.com forums that Coolerman's link directed me to!

I know 220V should be available - I've wired 220 and 110 and know how to split 220 into two 110 circuits.

I should have elaborated - when we relocated, from a house in Texas, to a townhouse in North Las Vegas, we moved into a townhouse complex that is managed like a condo complex - I don't have the latitude to change breakers or add circuits.

I could probably fight for a waiver, but to be candid, when you get to be 65, life is too short to waste time fighting red tape - you have to learn to prioritize the importance of the battles.

If I can do what I need to do with the 20 amp 110V circuits available in my garage, life is great!!!

I really appreciate your wisdom!

Thanks again!

 

[DAD2SIX]

Everything I have made for my cruiser has been done with a 110v wire fed mig with flux core .035 and I have made bumpers, sliders, fame plates, trans crossmember, roll cage, body panels ect. It's the best to learn on In my opinion. I love it. Not saying it's the best but it has served me well. I also added 220 to my garage to run my plasma cutter. If your house has two available circuit breaker slots you can have 220 with a little wiring. I'm no electrician. But that's what my electrician buddy said and that's what I did and it works.

 

[misterpepper]

You might have 220V at the dryer...just sayin'. I've heard of people making extensions cords and using the dryer plug, but the amperage is off for what a 220V welder typically needs.

Some welders work better on 110V than others. I have a Miller Passport that accepts 110V as well as 220V. It seems to be pretty stout on 110V. It uses an inverter power supply, which is maybe more efficient than the transformer power supply welders. Esab makes a battery operated welder that charges using 110V and looks pretty cool. I'm sure being battery powered you couldn't do many big jobs with it, but it might have the power to do 1/4" plate for small jobs. It can run off of 110V + battery, making it potentially more powerful than 110V alone.

 

[TheHardWay]

I think the 140 migs are great for most of it. Have a 175-hardly ever use hi setting. One thing to watch out for on the 110 migs is if it's an old house or has some kinda hacked wiring-be too much of a voltage drop for it to work right. BTW any house has 220 in it-the garage even could -it's just 2 opposite sides of the 110 wave. May not have both sides in garage-but may have and could be run into box depending how your wiring is done.[/QUOTE


When I built my house I installed a 220 breaker for the electric dryer. I'm not an electrician, but you should be able to install a 220V breaker in your house's breaker box, then run a cable to a 220V outlet somewhere in your garage. Ask an electrician about that option.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

All good info - keep it coming!

I'm not going to rush out and buy something - I want to be sure...

I have one 115V 20amp circuit in the garage - that will have to do.

I installed a 50amp 220V circuit in my shop in Smithville, TX, specifically for a welder - but with all the 1930 house renovations, I never go to metal work. Until I retired, then we sold and moved out here.

I'm really glad to see that so many are comfortable with 110 MIG welders, for the types of projects I envision - I really don't feel like wasting exploration time, fishing time, fabrication time, etc. fighting red tape!

Being retired Air Force, Nellis AFB probably has a hobby shop with a welder that I can use, if I need something bigger... but, for the most part, I prefer to work in my garage and simply close the door to secure it all.

MisterPepper's comment intrigued me... I hadn't thought about a combination 110-battery welder - if this the sort of welder that some people mount on their 40s? e.g. something you could use to make emergency repairs in remote locations?

Thanks!

 

[JohnnyC]

i use this lincoln .... works good for me... got it from a friend who upgraded to a mig miller... he loves his miller

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

I have a Century 90 built back in 1991 and it is a FLUX/MIG setup. I burn through 3/16 using .035 flux core wire if I do beads longer than 2" at a time. I have welded 1/4 plate with .035 mig and it didn't hold up, but .035 flux was sturdy. On the inside panel it says to use .045 flux for 1/4, but I haven't tried it yet. So in short, YES there are 110v 20amp welders out there that are very capable when you properly prepare your work pieces.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Thanks JohnnyC and LandCruisinMy93!

LandCruisinMy93: Could you please elaborate on this statement, " I burn through 3/16 using .035 flux core wire if I do beads longer than 2" at a time"? I want to be sure I understand... do you mean, you burn through the 3/16" steel?

Thanks!

 

[Tigerstripe40]

All great info - also great info on the WeldingWeb.com forums that Coolerman's link directed me to!

I know 220V should be available - I've wired 220 and 110 and know how to split 220 into two 110 circuits.

If you have washer/dryer hook ups, the dryer should be a 220 volt plug -in my home it's 30 amp.

You can get a cable made from 10/3 which will carry the current of a MillerMatic 180 (I have a 100' 10/3 cable that I run from the dryer plug to a receptacle where I use my welder). My MillerMatic 175 220 volt welder draws 19.5 amps at full power.

At one time I may have made a gender-bender where I went from the 220v plug into a standard Edison 110volt plug and ran a heavy duty extension cord for 110v to where I was using the welder and then gender-bent back to the 220v plug for my welder. While not 'code' it was only hooked up long enough for me to finish my project for the day and then it was disassembled. I did pay VERY close attention to how hot things got and they never even got warm.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Thanks James!

Thanks James!

220 is really not an option - I have a gas dryer and a gas range - no 220 hookup.

The only 220 is a 30amp 220 for the Air Conditioner, out back, and it's a long way off - I'd rather not run a 100' extension cord - then I'd have a fight with the HOA.

I don't have the access to the panel to swap breakers or change wiring and don't want to fight it - there appear to be many welder options available in 110 that will serve my purposes nicely.

Thanks!

 

[cjgoode]

I have 4 220 outlets in my garage (PO was a nut) but I went with a Lincoln 140 115V from Home Depot. I am not a professional welder, not even a really good welder, but I did stay in a Holiday in last night. I went with the 115v for portability, and when I move I know I can still use it. It will do 1/4 steel with flux core wire and 100% penetrate. Flux core is much hotter then solid wire and will penetrate better. It will take the gas, but I have never used it with gas do to the cost and having to get the bottles filled up all the time. I rarely ever turn up the juice all the way, only if I weld a bumper or frame type metal. The wire is infinitely adjustable like said above, that is a 100% requirement on any one you get, if not skip it. The power would be nice, but it is adjustable to 4 or 5 distinct levels, seems to do fine from body panels to frames. 220 would be nice, you can weld thicker metal faster with same penetration and one pass, and for a longer period with the much higher duty cycles (how long you can weld without letting off the trigger), but the not being able to take it to any outlet at any house was not worth the better performance for my harry homeowner usage of it.

 

[Bambi Girl]

Hi all
Your thread has made good reading.
Here it Australia we have 240 Volt as our domestic power and 415 three phase as industrial.
For the technical minded our power system is Line 1 Line 2 Line 3 Natural and earth.
Measure the voltage between Line 1 or Line 2 or Line 3 and neutral and you get 240 volt or measure between the lines and you get 415 volt.
An 80 to 100 amp 240 volt supply is common.
After reading your thread I did not know how lucky we are.
My welding tips.
For us senior guys a good auto dark helmet.
I find gas migs give a better weld.
Don't be afraid to play with the wire feed and match the voltage to suit.
Practice on scrap before attacking the forty series.
I look forward to reading how you get on.
Cheers from Australia.