Welder Question

[Robs76fj40]

I've been welding for 18 years, as a Journeyman Millwright. The two factors you need to look at when you're going buy a welder is the amperage output and duty cycle. I understand 220v is not an option, which for your skill level is fine. Look for the highest duty cycle, which tells you how long you can weld in a ten minute cycle period. More importantly however, it really speaks to the quality of the welder itself. Higher duty cycles equate to better internals and longer life, consistent arc,so on. I'm very partial to Miller welders myself, and I've used most of them( Miller, Lincoln, Hobart,century, gas and electric) over the years.
Miller, Lincoln and somewhat Hobart are great names and most importantly have a very broad and well respected service network. That is HUGE. You will, if you do become fond of welding, wear parts out. Drive wheel, tips, the gun, the liner in the gun - so on. I'm sure you understand your need to purchase the highest rated output welder you can for your voltage constraints, you can NEVER have too much welder at that voltage. As far as gas or flux-core is concerned, it will probably easier for you to learn to read the puddle and work on proper gun angle/technique with solid wire/gas. I wouldn't plan on building any bumpers or cages until you know and understand when and why you have problems, like undercut on the toes of your weld, proper bead overlap, things like that. That takes time and practice and asking lots of questions. When you get to that stage, running flux core wire is as simple as loading the spool and shutting off the gas. Solid wire is much nicer for sheet metal stuff anyway.
Hope this some and I wasn't too long winded. Ask lots of questions and remember, duty cycle, amperage, long term part availability and service. Also check out Jody on weldingtipsandtricks.com on YouTube, AWESOME videos!!!! Amazing help, great source of info!! Can't say enough

 

[cjgoode]

One note on Robs comment, I do not know about the big ones, but on these 110v ones I have seen to switch from gas to flux you also have to switch the polarity of the wires, simple but important.

As for the previous comment about the auto darkening helmets, you either need to buy a crazy expensive one or stick with a solid non auto one. The low end ones do not auto dark fast enough and do not work for very long. I paid over $100 for mine, in no time it gave me bad headaches as it did not darken fast enough, worked ok at first but went down hill after only a few months. Need to find it and throw it away.

 

[Robs76fj40]

One note on Robs comment, I do not know about the big ones, but on these 110v ones I have seen to switch from gas to flux you also have to switch the polarity of the wires, simple but important.

Opps, er yea that too

As for the previous comment about the auto darkening helmets, you either need to buy a crazy expensive one or stick with a solid non auto one. The low end ones do not auto dark fast enough and do not work for very long. I paid over $100 for mine, in no time it gave me bad headaches as it did not darken fast enough, worked ok at first but went down hill after only a few months. Need to find it and throw it away.

Great point! Needs to be taken seriously!!
X2 on that, cheap auto hoods are horrible for your eyes! They don't darken near fast enough to protect you, however its fairly hard to "notice" at first, its deceiving for sometime, but it will take its toll on your eyes. Jackson makes several very lightweight non-darkening models with very large viewing windows for pretty little money or 3M makes a great auto darkening hood, one of the best really. Large optics for a great viewing window, lots of shade options, probably one of the best headgear on the market - very comfortable even after 6-7 hours of welding! http://store.cyberweld.com/nespwehe91au.html worth its weight in gold for the price as far as I'm concerned.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

More Thanks!

Chris/Bambi Girl/Robs76fj40/cjgoode,

Thanks to all for all the great information/suggestions!

Bambi Girl your electricity tutorial was interesting... reminded me of the UK ( which makes sense ), as well as The Netherlands, Belgium and Germany... all of these used 230V, 50hz (cycle) for residential power (hydro). Libya used 127V (except
for certain cities (like Benghazi - 230V), again 50HZ, I remember, in London, we had to use a number of different adapters on the plug end of appliances in order to mate to the various wall socket configurations and transformers to step from 115V, 60hz(American) to 230V, 50hz.

I understand your residential ((line1 or 2 or 3) + neutral) for residential, but how do you arrive at 415V for industrial?

Thanks for your list!

Robs76dj40: Thanks for the tutorial on duty cycles and the problems associated with auto-darkening helmets - I guess the take-away on both is the old adage, you get what you pay for. I appreciate you pointing out the eye-damaging potential associated with using poor quality auto-darkening helmets.

cjgoode: Thanks for the tip on reversing polarity - that's the kind of tip that prevents what we old computer programmers call an 'endless loop' - in this case, trying every step, over and over, to no avail. The definition of insanity... e.g. repeating the same steps over and over and expecting a different result... the 'reversing polarity tip' is the sort of tip I may never have discovered on my own...

Thanks everyone!

 

[Robs76fj40]

Robs76fj40: Thanks for the tutorial on duty cycles and the problems associated with auto-darkening helmets - I guess the take-away on both is the old adage, you get what you pay for. I appreciate you pointing out the eye-damaging potential associated with using poor quality auto-darkening helmets.


Thanks everyone!

Anytime! I know that the Millermatic 140 is a bit pricey new, but you should be able to source them used from people who are moving up a level in welders. Of course there are other welders out there as well which are good machines. But to your point, yes you do tend to get what you've paid for.

I would think that if you were purchasing new equipment that you could bundle the hood and welder together and hit a $1000 price point, perhaps $100-150 less depending on sales and such; $500-650 used price point for those examples. Great questions by the way!

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Thanks again!

 

[Island Hopper]

Great thread, really good reading and information. I'd like to see what you guys think about the Everlast 140ST http://www.everlastgenerators.com/PowerArc-140ST-3915-pd.html

It has both 120/240v with the machine working at 105amps using 120v.

In a previous career I was a welder, mostly TIG and stick and that's why I like this welder. But that was 26 years ago and i've rarely done any welding since.

 

[fabriwelder]

So I've been a welder for around twenty years now. Wanted a new welding machine and decided to go with a multiprocess welder. MIG, TIG and stick. Long story short, I settled on the thermal arc 3 in 1. Fantastic machine. Stick welds better than my killer maxstar. Mig is fantastic. TIG welds perfectly. They have one that works on 110/220. In my opinion it's probably the best machine at the best price.
Just my humble .02 cents.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[Wile E Coyote]

A dual voltage machine is a GREAT idea, and would be my primary choice if there was a more than remote possibility of ever having 220v at my disposal. Another choice (One that I think MAY have been highlighted here somewhere: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/family-haulin.160807/. That being a Readywelder that can handle some serious plate thickness in single-pass. Yes, you'll have to maintain several big batteries and be limited to small 2lb spools of wire (big savings in using the larger spools) but it could be just what the Dr ordered for your needs.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

A dual voltage machine is a GREAT idea, and would be my primary choice if there was a more than remote possibility of ever having 220v at my disposal. Another choice (One that I think MAY have been highlighted here somewhere: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/family-haulin.160807/. That being a Readywelder that can handle some serious plate thickness in single-pass. Yes, you'll have to maintain several big batteries and be limited to small 2lb spools of wire (big savings in using the larger spools) but it could be just what the Dr ordered for your needs.

All great info!

I think (hope) I've just completed the repairs to my 40 that have prevented me using it thus far (new Tie/Relay Rods, new TREs and RREs, new Steering Gear Housing Pedestal, new Radiator and Hoses, new Clutch Slave, Knuckles rebuilt, with new Wheel Bearings, set Toe-In, aligned steering, adjusted clutch).

It's running and driving very well no - I just need to validate that I have '44' running safely (I need to make a trip in it, in the next week).

Once I'm sure '44's safe, I will re-focus on welding. I bought a Harbor Freight 110V, 90amp Flux welder. I wasn't ignoring everything everyone said, I merely decided,when I saw it on sale for $79, that I would practice with it and then donate it and buy what I decide is the best option, once I get serious about welding. I assembled it, with Lincoln wire, and adjusted the tension, etc., but have not had time to even try it out thus far.

Thanks again for all the great info!

 

[TXLX100]

Any suggestions for a 220A arc welder? My dad is having major surgery soon, and I thought it'd be nice to surprise him with a new welder for when he gets moving again. I kind of like this one from Northern Tool http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200381950_200381950 . It's about in my budget and I can get a few accessories as well.

 

[Robs76fj40]

So I've been a welder for around twenty years now. Wanted a new welding machine and decided to go with a multiprocess welder. MIG, TIG and stick. Long story short, I settled on the thermal arc 3 in 1. Fantastic machine. Stick welds better than my killer maxstar. Mig is fantastic. TIG welds perfectly. They have one that works on 110/220. In my opinion it's probably the best machine at the best price.
Just my humble .02 cents.


...via IH8MUD app

I've used Thermal Arc machines, good quality for sure, really are fantastic welders! I'm personally biased towards a brand, mainly because I'm familiar with that brand, functions, quirks, etc. I would be leery about a new machine at a very low cost.....these should be looked at as an investment. Last thing you want to waste money on a machine that, down the road for whatever reason - either lack of interest or trading up, is worth nothing and impossible to get rid of. For those of us with little money to invest in a welder, I would look around for a good used machine before buying a new machine simply because the " price was great".

 

[2mbb]

I made my FJ60 front bumper primarily with a 110V welder & 4 1/2" angle grinder. In the midst of my build thread one of the fabricators on the list stated that using gas-less wire (flux core) along with inert gas will get the most out of a 110V machine. As others have said, you may need to make multiple passes, but if you have the time & patience, it is a viable alternative.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/front-bumper-project.77311/

 

[Wilkyota]

I've been a welder with 10 years experience. I take my Lincoln 140 onto job sites with me all the time. I have also done work on my fj40 from the tub to the bumper. It welds smooth and it makes a great garage welder for the basic needs

 

[warezdog]

A decent 110 welder can weld 1/4" with .35 flux on a single pass, you can do it with gas if you preheat first.

Stay away from "bargain flux" as it will drive you nuts, specifically harbor freight flux its complete crap.

IMHO the only down side to a 110 besides not being able to do stuff reliably over 1/4" is the duty cycle, often less than 30%.

 

[jcardona1]

I'm a complete noob but I gotta say I already love my Hobart 140. Great little unit, easy to setup and really easy to lay a bead down. Went to C25 gas and solid wire as soon as I bought it.

Got the "upgraded" 140 model on Amazon for a great price http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009X43F38/?tag=ihco-20

My prettiest weld to-date with just a bit of practice. I won't be tackling any safety/suspension equipment just yet though.

 

[FluByU]

Being retired Air Force, Nellis AFB probably has a hobby shop with a welder that I can use, if I need something bigger... but, for the most part, I prefer to work in my garage and simply close the door to secure it all.
Thanks!

I wish we still had a hobby shop, they closed it in 2012 due to budget restraints. They closed it, the bowling alley and the theater all about the same time. We lost the library in last years sequestration impacts. It was a decent little shop, tools were garbage but they had some welders, good lifts and a nice spray booth. Damn shame.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

I wish we still had a hobby shop, they closed it in 2012 due to budget restraints. They closed it, the bowling alley and the theater all about the same time. We lost the library in last years sequestration impacts. It was a decent little shop, tools were garbage but they had some welders, good lifts and a nice spray booth. Damn shame.

It is a shame, but not the first time the military had to take the hit for poor fiscal management and certainly won't be the last...

 

[Tigerstripe40]

Did not intend to hijack. Sorry.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Military spending is the top of the list of poor fiscal management.
Though, personally I'd rather a hobby shop be available for the people who have made a commitment to our country, rather than storing retired aircraft (F-117) in climate controlled hangers....

It was never my intent to start a political debate in a welding forum - I should have simply bit my tongue.